Shouldnt be an issue as long as you have a GI contour barrel and a standard receiver (no M25). I only owned a G2 but I cant think of anything on the G3 or Troy rail that would keep you from installing the rail

 

that is something i haven't seen yet...


But i also havnt seen a CASV-14 either. time to UTFSE and see!

brb

 

here is one

if you can get that CASV on there then you can surely get your battlerail on there.

though i'd rather have the CASV personally to keep the m1 sights. (best sights ever)

My favorite rail is the ultimak on the JAE.

 

My favorite rail is the ultimak on the JAE.

Do you know if it would work with an LRB M25? Which barrel profiles are accommodated?

 

Bad news brother...

sorry i didn't think of this but the front band is specific on the JAE.

according to lisa at jae, no...this will not work with their stock due to the front band. looking closer, the troy front band has a 90* lip all the way up the lower part of it which would interfere with the squareish design of the forward part of the jae stock. im looking into whether or not modifying the troy would be practical. still looking for alternatives in the mean time.

as with ALL jae questions... call and talk to Lisa!

 

No you cannot I tried the band in the front is too wide, you would have to shave it down to the width of a standard band, plus why would you want to gwt rid of your irons? better off with a VLtor gen II

 

could work a standard barrel band to fit in place of the lower part of the troy ring (2 parts).

 

I dont think thats possible if i remember the 2 parts get screwed together

 

I have to ask: why would you? What advantage would there be to a battlerail in addition to the JAE?
To do so moves the rifle firmly into the realm of "tactilol"

 

Getting the top rail all the way back to allow better scope mount. I don't know, just was out of curiosity don't plan on doing it. Never heard of "tactilol", definition?

 

the extended Vltor rail is back far enough for most scopes.. (not acogs though)

the battle rail is good for Acogs.

the battle rail is no more "tacticool" than the CASV-14, or theultimak....

i hate that term its anti-second amendment.

and was likely started by a flaming liberal, which then turned into a overused internet Meme.

 

Get the Vltor. Brilliant. Still use rear sight if you remove scope

Only caveat -- because the rail is the same height the whole way, if you want to use a 50mm object scope, then you must use VERY high rings and t he adjustable cheekpiece on the JAE is a MUST --

That's why with the CASV-14 I go with a 40MM front bell --

Light transmission is still great. People make these 50mm front bells to LOOK like you're getting more light gathering, but it's still being funneled through a 30 mm body...

 

People make these 50mm front bells to LOOK like you're getting more light gathering, but it's still being funneled through a 30 mm body...

I'm not a physicist, but I do know that this is not how physics works.

Bigger objective lenses DO let in more light, all else being equal (lens coatings, alignment, etc.).

And all the light ultimately goes through one point, regardless of the size of the tube.

 

i don't know about the rest of you......but i had to shave a ton of materiel off the vltor casv-14 rail to keep it from contacting the jae.

you see. i am all the way up to the side screws for the side rails. i don't know why mine required this much removal. its a jon wolfe built lrb. been thinking about selling this whole optic set up all together. its not that its not the sweetest optic set up for an m14 that i could of possibly imagined.....it is. its just that i have this high quality crazy expensive set up....and i never shoot more that 100-300 yards!!! that's all i have access to! and most of my shooting is done at 100 yards. 300 is a special occation that happens a few times a year when i travel. its like having a Ferrari with no race track.....just sad. for those interested that is a premier heritage 3-15x50 genII reticle in an ADM mount on-top of the vltor rail. probably ditching it for an aimpoint on an ultimak m8 rail.

ok sorry for the rant and the de-rail of the thread....its just been on my mind lately. thanks for letting me get that out.

 

i don't know about the rest of you......but i had to shave a ton of materiel off the vltor casv-14 rail to keep it from contacting the jae.


you see. i am all the way up to the side screws for the side rails. i don't know why mine required this much removal. its a jon wolfe built lrb. been thinking about selling this whole optic set up all together. its not that its not the sweetest optic set up for an m14 that i could of possibly imagined.....it is. its just that i have this high quality crazy expensive set up....and i never shoot more that 100-300 yards!!! that's all i have access to! and most of my shooting is done at 100 yards. 300 is a special occation that happens a few times a year when i travel. its like having a Ferrari with no race track.....just sad. for those interested that is a premier heritage 3-15x50 genII reticle in an ADM mount on-top of the vltor rail. probably ditching it for an aimpoint on an ultimak m8 rail.

ok sorry for the rant and the de-rail of the thread....its just been on my mind lately. thanks for letting me get that out.

don't sell it dude. the whole "i don't really need it" need inner-argument will leave you in regret and ruin for your setup after you sell it.

don't deal with the remorse you are blessed with a fantastic setup. you shouldn't be selling it, unless your going under financially and even then i'd try to keep the rifle!

 

speaking of tacticool.............we need a jea picture thread. we dont have a dedicated jae picture thread.....do we?

it was mentioned earlier how when using a 50mm (or larger) objective bell on the vltor rail requires very high rings. well......check out how high my cheek rest is. i defiantly could not of used this set up with out the jae adjustable cheek rest. my ADM mount is 1.5" high. i did my math when shopping i think i could of gone as low as 1.18"-1.48" (was looking at sphur mounts) if i remember correctly. but, i would of had to loose my caps.....and i wasn't okay with that.

 

again i will say don't sell it. (the scope)

i didn't mean to throw you off track with mentioning the rifle at the end. I don't even have ANY range to shoot at. but we'll get another one at some point.

the thing is you never want to trade down. and aim point on a JAE is just silly. (sure alot of people do that from time to time, but i promise they have a real scope in the bag. You've built a fine SASS why neuter it?

it just sounds like a desicion you would regret compared to just saving and getting a sage with an aim point or another JAE with an aim point if thats your fancy.

 

most ferrari owners never set foot on a racetrack.

 

ha. your awesome. thank you for that. i am going to hold on to the set up. at least for the time being.

 

Whooohooo!! Go dredsen!!

 

Gun rider is your rail making any contact with the JAE stock...

.... i think thats what he was referring to.

I am not sure how that would effect anything though.

 

nah.....lisa said contact between the top of the jae and the rail was a no go. mine contacted....so i shaved until i got clearance.

 

The length of the tube also affects focal length which also determines magnification.

 

If you gave me some details on the scope I would be glad to pick it up from you.

 

It's the optical physics that prove a larger objective lets in more light. That's why faster, brighter lenses are so much wider in front and back (and expensive).

Works the same with wide-angle optics. There is so much more correction to be made, optically speaking.

The light falls off toward the edges, but the intensity is concentrated through the center. That's called focus, and also how a magnifying glass focus can burn in the sunshine.

 

the tube size does effect your FOV right?

 

Not as far as I know. The image is only effected by the lenses. The tube's only purpose is to serve as a way to connect everything together and protect the internal lenses in the erector tube.

The basic concept is that light enters the objective lens at the front of the scope (when they say light think image). That image is then focused on another lens inside the scope's tube in an assembly called the erector tube. That erector tube has more than one lens and it's purpose is to flip the image and allow a way for the elevation and windage to adjust the scope (the elevation and windage knobs push the erector tube against springs in order to move the reticle as necessary). Then the image goes through some kind of focus lens and then finally to the eye lens.

The field of view is first controlled by the size of the objective lens. However much light/ image that lens allows in (field of view) to the tube is all that the scope has to work with.

If the scope is a fixed power then the only other time that the image will be effected is as it passes through the eye lens. If the lens is matched to your pupil then you will see as much of the image as possible, if it isn't matched, then you will not see the image clearly, it may be too dark or too bright, it may have a fuzzy edge, any number of issues can present themselves.

A variable scope introduces more chance for the scope to screw up the image. The middle lenses that are in the erector have to move forward and backward in order to change the focal point of the lenses, this changes the magnification. So the entire erector tube moves forward and back. The eye lens will still have the same effect on the image as with a fixed power scope.

The reticle is placed at either the front (front or 1st focal plane) or the rear (rear or 2nd focal plane) of the erector tube.

Parallax adjustment just adds another lens in between the erector tube and the eye lens.

OK, now that you have a general picture of how the image is processed through the scope you can see that the tube's diameter, all things being equal, wont have an impact on the field of view; it's really a factor of how the lenses are placed and designed. Admittedly, the manufacturer could increase the tube diameter to change the lens diameter (inside the erector tube) so that he could change the focal length of the lenses and that would effect the scope's overall dimensions but it doesn't really change the field of view.

Usually the larger body tube is designed to allow for greater MOA adjustment but some scopes have a larger tube so that the they can use a more complex system for adjusting the reticle. The less expensive, and more common, way for controlling the erector tube is for there to be one leaf spring placed on the erector tube, opposite the elevation and windage knobs. Other scopes use several coil springs or leaf springs. The greater number of springs help keep the erector tube aligned and increases the repeatability of the scope when you make your adjustments.