Should be a simple procedure to change out the stock.

 

As long as the wood stock has the metal already installed, it's pretty straightforward: open the trigger group and pull it out, lift up on the barreled action, put barreled action in the new stock, insert the trigger group, and lock down the trigger guard.

 

Unlatch guard and remove the trigger group.

Pull stock away from action and front band.

Install wood stock in reverse by aligning the front band/stock ferrule and install action.

Pop the trigger group back in. Done.

You'll need to check for op-rod rubs upon firing and general stock fit. I assume since you've found a source already and are on top of things that you can manage a minor fitting as well. If you have any questions you are in the right place.

 

You can check out one of the videos about cleaning your riifle for a demonstration of how to take it apart.

 

Even if you get a wood stock without the metal, its not at all difficult to install the metal on the stock before you put your rifle in it.

 

Whenever you change stocks, you should perform a safety check to make sure that you don't have hammer follow.

Cycle the action and pull the trigger, keep the trigger held to the rear and cycle the op rod briskly a few times while holding the trigger to the rear.

Release the trigger, you should hear/feel a click and the hammer should have stayed captured by the trigger lugs. GTG

 

Its as easy as pie, and a sweet wood stock will add beauty and soul to your rifle, you'll love it more when its done.
m14brian

 

USGI wood is usually a pretty good choice for the M1A. Aftermarket will be hit or miss on the fit. Try Treeline for a nice GI wood stock, Fred's if you're real patient. CMP has some for $35 pot luck.

 

I recently did exactly what you're talking about. I bought the stock from Fulton Armory and finished it myself with TruOil. It makes a world of difference to the rifle. Do it.. you'll be happy you did!

 

putting the metal on is easier than the action.

 

You can get an exact replacement springfield stock here
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...tocks/stock-walnut-w-hardware-prod22202.aspx?avs|Make~~Model_1=Springfield__M1A

 

OP, I'd like to say that after you remove the barreled receiver from the stock for the first time you'll see that it's probably the simplest thing you can do to your rifle. Also, I'd like to suggest you get a nice USGI Walnut stock. The profile is slightly different from an aftermarket commercially manufactured stock and you can buy a dummy selector switch to fill the opening in the USGI stock. The dummy switch will prevent any foreign matter from entering the opening and up the coolness factor by 100%. Just my opinion, YMMV.

 

OK, I guess I have to be the "Old Stick in the Mud" again. It is EASY to swap stocks, usually, BUT that doesn't mean the wood stock will fit correctly, especially a GI stock.

1. SAinc. receivers have varied a LOT in the length of the receiver legs from front to back. They USED to be LONGER than M14 receivers and then you had to file the stock liner a bit to get them in place. In more recent years, SAinc.s' receiver legs have been shorter to WAY shorter front to back than the stock liner. Even with tight trigger guard lock up that will allow the receiver to bounce around in the stock and not give good accuracy.

2. Over the years, some SAinc. receiver heels have been higher off the bottom than GI receivers. That means when the rifle is locked down, the receiver heel doesn't touch the wood. That can be fixed by bedding or even gluing shims on top of the stock.

3. Something similar is SAinc. made some receivers where there was an extra "shelf" of metal behind the receiver legs and those receivers require you either inlet the stock for the shelf or file/mill/cut the shelf off the receiver.

4. The front of the receiver may not sit evenly on both sides of the front beddings surfaces. This can be fixed by glass bedding.

5. There may be too little or too much draw or pressure required to close the trigger guard. That can also be fixed by bedding or shimming.

 

Thank you so much gentlemen, and especially Gunny Gus for the possible landmines. I posted in the wanted section of this forum and have a couple responses so I probably won't even have to go elsewhere to find the wood. Tell me, are the guys on this forum straight up guys? It sure looks like there is brotherhood here. I have yearned for this rifle a long time and have to admit it's love at first sight. Thank you again gentlemen.

 

Please understand that most any fitting problem with GI stocks will come from the fact that no civilian/commercial M14 receiver is to GI spec. It is almost never the stock that is the problem as long as it is in serviceable shape.

Sorry I didn't notice this before, but it's good to have another Coast Guard person around. Got a good friend who is retired Coast Guard.

Now, I'm waiting to see if we have some one on the forum whose motto is "Per Mare, Per Terram."

 

I've dealt with numerous sellers on this website over the past year and ALL of them have been stand-up guys.

Caveat Emptor always applies though.

 

Sorry Gunny, I'm not Coast Guard, I'm former Army. My screen name is a philosophy of mine - Always be prepared. I was a good Boy Scout after all. I should have been more clear about my question up front. I have no problem getting the stock on and off. The first thing I did was field strip and clean the shipping grease out and re-lube with gun grease. Then I re-assembled and re-stripped a few times until I felt comfortable with it - Old habits die hard and I like being able to tear down and re-assemble in the dark. My question is more related to whether there is anything other than a simple swap involved. I keep reading about how the stock needs to be sort of custom fit to the specific receiver/barrel/trigger groups and this is the part I'm a bit nervous about. If it's a matter of a little wood working that's no big deal, but I want to know what the landmines are first.

 

Sorry I confused you for Coast Guard. I hope you understand there was no disrespect to you, the Army or the Coast Guard.

Here are things you should do when trying to fit a GI stock to a commercial receiver:

1. First thing is to check for cracks and ones that may not be apparent to the eye.

A. BE CAREFUL doing this because it is possible for really strong handed person to crack a stock that is not cracked. Not many people can do it, but it can be done. Grip the front of the stock and squeeze inward to see if there are cracks around the sling swivel. Also pull the swivel sideways in both directions to see if the swivel is loose. Try pulling on the ferrule to see it is tight as it should be.

B. Best to do this sitting down. Lay the center of the stock over one of your thighs and press down on each end at the same time. This will cause a crack to open up that your otherwise might not see. Do this on both sides and the top and bottom of the stock, IOW, go all around the four sides of the stock.

C. Check around the void in the right rear of the stock for cracks.

2. Put JUST the barreled action group in the stock without putting the trigger mechanism in place. Now, grab the stock grip with one hand and the barrel ahead of the GC with the other hand. (I do this with the stock upside down on the bench.) Try to pull your hands apart and press them together to see if there is any forward and backward movement in the stock and this USUALLY means how tight the receiver legs fit the stock liner. A good many commercial receiver legs are not as long front to back as GI receivers and that means you would have a loose stock. You can fill up the looseness with bedding to fix it.

3. With the barreled receiver in the stock still upside down on the bench, put the trigger mech in and lock it in place. There must be at least SOME "draw" or pressure to close the trigger guard. If there is not, the stock has to be shimmed or bedded.

4. With the rifle all together, turn it right side up. Look under the receiver heel. There should be contact on the last 1" to 1 1/8" of the rear of the heel.

5. Check the front of the stock. Hold the barrel just above the GC and try to push the stock upwards and side to side. There should be a little movement and stock should spring back after you stop pushing.

6. Point the barrel away from you and check to see if the receiver is sitting correctly in the stock and not canted to one side.

Numbers 1. through 3. Were how we inspected every M14 stock when the rifle was the "As Issue" rifle of the Corps. Numbers 4. through 6. are things we have to pay attention to because commercial receivers often do not fit GI stocks because of the differences in the receivers.

 

If you're ordering the stock sight-unseen, try to get an agreement from seller that you can return for a refund within x days if the stock doesn't properly fit your rifle.

Just speaking for myself, I've had good luck with GI M14 wood on M1A's. The only exception was one Big Red that had a warp. But Gus has seen many more build and fit problems than I ever will; he earns a living fixing them. So be alert for those issues.

 

Gunny Gus (I hope you don't mind me calling you that, I have the utmost respect for Marine NCOs even though I'm a former Army puke) - I've got a line on a couple of guys selling GI M14 stocks. How hard is it to fill in the selector switch notch because it looks like the best stocks out there seem to be the old M14 stocks.

 

To fill the selector cut out, one could:

1. Buy a dummy selector kit. Its main function is to fill the cut-out.
2. Take some measurements and cut out a small wooden block and fit it.
3. Use JB weld or something similar.

On my fiberglass stock, I simply used JB weld then painted the stock. On my birch stock, I installed a dummy selector since I have no talent for wood-work.

Here's a picture of the fiberglass stock filled with JB weld.

 

Sorry for the newb question but sortof related.. I just ordered an m1a scout synthetic, and understand that a fiberglass usgi stock will improve accuracy (i dont want wood for this one)... The fiberglass stock needs to be bedded, unlike the wood stock, correct? Thanks in advance.

 

If you get the new rubbery like synthetic stock on your rifle, they seem to be pretty tough, but too much give in them for the best accuracy.

A GI fiberglass stock may or may not improve accuracy as it all depends on how it fits your receiver and trigger mechanism. Please see post above and especially for Items 3. through 6.

 

Gunnery Sgt rank is E7 and a Master Gunnery Sgt is E9.

 

I changed my Scout from a synthetic stock to a wooden one. The plastic stock from SAI had way too much flex in the forestock area for me. The stock was also purchased from the classified section of this forum.

 

Thanks for the pointers on stock checking!!!!!!!!!!