So, the brass is getting stuck between the scope and the mount?

If so, perhaps you could look into lower rings to reduce the amount of space between your scope and mount, small enough so that brass won't fit?

Just a thought. Good luck.

 

No, underneath the scope mount in the space above the bolt and below the scope mount.

 

It may be that your lubrication is more than a little lacking. Tonyben has done a tutorial here on the forum that opened my eyes as to all of the areas that require grease. You are firing a new rifle, parts are rough and not seated, springs at their stiffest. Do some research here and then tear it down and grease it properly, it may be all you need. By the way, congrats on the new rifle. Let us know how it works.

 

This issue is quite common with those M14 scope mounts, such as the ARMS 18, that put the rail as low as possible for best cheek weld. With these very low mounts, the usual cure is to clip a few coils off of the ejector spring to slightly change the ejector tension, and the path the brass takes on the way out.

HOWEVER,
the LRB rail height IS HIGHER, and this problem should not be happening, unless some other factor is involved. Possibly the new parts are a bit too tight and need more break in. Tight spots are common with brand new 14s [ too tight is better than too loose on a NEW 14], and this problem may disappear after a few more rounds, as the rifle breaks in.

Try the tilt test.
With op rod spring and trigger group out of the gun,
see if the op rod and bolt slide freely at 45 degrees?
At 30 degrees?

If there is a hesitation or point where things hang up slightly, simply lube it well and shoot it more.

IF this doesn't solve the problem,
here are some Possible SIMPLE solutions to change the ejection cycle:

1.] Try different ammo.

2.] clean the gas assembly and make sure it is ABSOLUTELY DRY .. NO OIL!!

3.] TRY A DIFFERENT OP ROD SPRING

4.] Disassemble the bolt and clip one coil off of your ejector spring and test
[repeat if necessary up to 3 coils ... and it would be a good idea to have a spare full length ejector spring in case this wasn't the cause]

5.] Slightly change the bevel of the ejector tip by stoning [ BEST LEFT TO A PRO ].

If these things don't fix the issue, then it could get a bit more complicated.

good luck with this one ...
[
LAZ 1

 

I too have a M25 with Badger Med. height scope rings and a Leupold 3.5X10 scope. After about 100 rounds, fortunately, I have not experienced brass jamming anything. The differences I see on your rifle and mine are that I put the mounting nuts on the left side of the rifle and the scope height on mine is a bit lower. Can't say that these are the cause, but just stating the differences.

 

Possibility?

If I'm understanding the issue here correctly, I'll just add in my possibly unrelated and silly 0.25 worth. After all, maybe it's valid, yah never know.

I had heard, possibly from Bassett hisself, that the angle cut on the underside of the one-piece scope mount rail can have a lot to do with proper casing ejection, since if your brass does contact & bounce off that rail, and the angle's tilted outwards a bit, it will cause the spent case to deflect outwards rather than directly into down into the receiver.

Any possibility of that here? BTW, the Bassett mount, even their low one, has an obvious angle to the mount's underside, which is because of this problem, and is therefore why he did it that way.

 

Trying flipping the rings around so the nuts are on the left and moving them as far apart as possible to keep the ejection area clear. You want as much ring spread as you can get anyway and your tube has plenty of room for it.

If it continues try trimming the ejector spring a little at a time till it goes away.

 

Trying flipping the rings around so the nuts are on the left and moving them as far apart as possible to keep the ejection area clear. You want as much ring spread as you can get anyway and your tube has plenty of room for it.

+1 Just checked my M25 and the nuts are on the left side. My forward ring is about where yours is, but the rear ring is back farther. There is no place for an ejected case to get stuck.

 

I have lower rings and my rear ring is all the way back. no problems with mine. The extended rail seems to clear the brass better also

 

I will have my smith adjust the scope mount - now that I look at it the rear can go back, the front can move forward, and the nuts will indeed be better on the other side.

Ill get it out to the range and see if it stops, but looking at the picture of it, I think that will do the trick. Ill give a range report after I test it.

 

I don't understand why would you need a smith to adjust the scope mount.How old are you?

 

This is the EXACT issue that I have with my MRB with the ARMS mount and med Leupold rings, as stated clip a single coil at a time and test. Yes, it is a pain in the behind, but in th end you will have a non jamming weapon. It took me anout three outings and close to 400 rounds to get the spring dialed in.

 

Jamming

Had the same thing happen to my SA Supermatch(1985). Sent it back to SA and they fixed it. They installed a new extractor spring and that fixed it(no charge for shipping). SA e-mailed me a shipping label(Fed Ex). Good people and a wonderful warranty. That is probably your problem. Spent brass is suppossed to be ejected out to the right front and NOT straight up. If it is you are going to have a jam if you are using a scope. Hope this helps.

 

Nice rifle. Folks have you on the right track. Move the mounts and put the nuts on the left. Did the same thing with one of my M25s. One had the same thing happeing occasionally. Took a couple of days to figure out that I had created the problem myself. Moved the mounts around, Shaaazammm! no more stuck brass.

Semper Fi

 

My smith put the rings on the outside edges and flipped them arround so the nuts were on the other side. There is alot more clearance now and the jamming issue has not come back - I shot about 100 rounds yesterday.

This is what it looks like now compared with the above photo

 

Here is the rifle at the range

Glad your symptoms cleared up after the modifications.
I have to say that I love the adjustable bench rest in that photo. More ranges should do that.

 

41, but I have never messed with scopes or scope mounts before and I dont have a torque wrench. Thought I would leave it to someone who is familiar with it. Having observed the process now, I can probably duplicate it.

 

Hello RedlegSA, I thought that I would share a couple of casual observations with you.

Your first pic "Here is the rifle at the range" seems to show the bolt not closed, It could be the lighting, it could be the picture was taken as the op rod was cyclying the bolt, or maybe I am just mistaken. However, if that bolt is sticking open like that when the hammer falls on a live round, you will likely have a very bad day.


Your photo "This is what it looks like now compared with the above photo" shows what appears to be way too much grease on the bolt track, firing the rifle like that may result in grease getting thrown into the chamber, which is not a good thing.

Some grease is a good thing, too much grease, not so good......

 

I have the same thing happen to me with my Sadlak mount. It looks like a Stovepipe but it's the brass jammed between the op rod and the forward end of the scope mount. happened like 3 times one day but it has never happened since.

I was trying out some of a friends reloads and it only happened with those. All other ammo has been flawless. Could it be rounds too hot? too light?

 

I recall there was a trick that employed taking a file to the face of the ejector to alter its angle

and hence the trajectory of the brass

but sounds like you're already cured here

 

Oh oh.....

Brighten up! Things could be worse:

http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...tab=organic&ts=&sigr=13vokh4tu&sigb=13qssfvjo&sigi=120iv1gqj&.crumb=S9I.UWuJaIc

GI3

Anyhow, the Bassett solution an angled face on the underside of the scope mount cross-over bridge) is a very good answer, if'n you are still having problems. In fact, Mr. Bassett himself says he's never had an eject or jam problem since he altered or added that "deflecting angle".

 

home made STEN tube?

 

Ahh yes; the Sterling.....



Boy, sure looks like it, huh? I think, though, it's one of those Rooskie "People's Resistance" pieces...

Boy though, that does remind me of the Sterling I carried in the Canuck Army for a while. A sort of Improved Sten, with a nice crinkle finish. Ahhhh... to have one-them, a full-auto version, stashed away in the Bug-Out Box.

http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...tab=organic&ts=&sigr=11l4ndna8&sigb=13id06oqs&sigi=11sqctqrd&.crumb=S9I.UWuJaIc

http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...tab=organic&ts=&sigr=11s1d4mov&sigb=13iv7sb05&sigi=12nf6kiao&.crumb=S9I.UWuJaIc

<sigh>

 

Recognizing that the problem was solved, I'm curious: Suppose an adjustable gas plug would slow down the cycling enough to prevent the original problem?

 

Adjustable Gas Port, yes!

That's a good idea and possibility, Mongo. I've already picked up one of those gas plug adjusters and hope it will reduce any possible bolt hammering with heavier bullet weights, like, say, 180 gr and normal hunting loads, which are too much for the M1A receiver & bolt to normally handle on a full-time basis.

As for the round then bouncing off the scope bridge, this alteration could very well reduce the "fling factor" enough to prevent the problem!

Good luck.

 

Move the rings to the last position , outside, on the rail. OOps already said that last summer. Me bad.