Folks, not mine. Found online.
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I kept saying I would post my pride and joy, and this is me getting around to it.
A couple years ago I decided I wanted a battle rifle. I did a lot of research and decided that, at the end of the day, they were all about equal. Everyone would dog on the M14 for being "1-2 MOA" and how horrible it was. The next post would talk about the HK MR762 being a "laser" and how it was "1-2 MOA". I would still love an HK M110 build, but not for the price they are going for. Plus, you cannot, in my opinion, beat the style of the EBR.
##Pic 1 The Build:
I started with an older (I'm guessing 90s) SAI NM M1a, 22in stainless barrel. I liked shooting it in its wooden stock, but I had horrible cheek weld issues and chocked my accuracy issues up to that (sometimes my groups would stack, other times they would be 2 MOA). Knowing what I know now, looking back, it was a group sizing issue. After a lot of swearing and research, I found US Tactical Supply took over production of the EBR Chassis. After a year of gathering parts, my turn on the wait list came. Without further adieu, my build list:
*Surefire Warcomp, because I wanted to be able to throw a can on this thing one day and liked the looks of the Warcomp. The Surefire SOCOM is also supposed to be a high flow can, something critical for a gas gun. I may end up going with the Hux Wrx one day instead.
*Delta P muzzle adapter (from back when they were still making them). For the M14/M1A uninitiated, due to the nature of the beast, you cannot "just" throw this thing on there and throw any silencer you want. Things may not line up and you may have a baffle strike. Take it to someone and have everything checked for concentricity. There's lots of articles out there talking about this exact thing.
*Smith Enterprise Inc Warfighter gas system torqued to 120in-lbs. IIRC this is what the USMC shooting team used. I've seen some listed torque values that are higher, but I wasn't comfortable torquing something that small that high.
*Fulton Armory HD spring
*Sadlak NM guide rod
*Sadlak EBR Airborne Scope Mount
*Vortex 34mm low profile rings
*Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25, honestly I'm highly disappointed in this scope. At 300 yards, it was easier to spot misses in my buddies Venom. I wanted to go with something higher end, but budget started to run tight.
*Knights Armament Co Rifle Level, because why not.
*Atlas Bipod
This was all assembled by me in the basement one night. Part of the reason this rifle is my pride and joy.
##Pic 2:
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Just for humor. I know this group doesn't qualify as "statistically relevant", but it's how I joke I have a sub MOA rifle. It's also a great example of how groupings can go. I believe it's a roughly .75 MOA grouping of 168 SMK. With ten round groupings, that bullet tends to lean towards 2 MOA
##Pic 3:
![Image]()
I've been testing ammo for giggles and this was my latest result. PoA 1 is Federal 168 SMK, PoA 2 is Federal 175 SMK, PoA 3 is AAC 175 OTM, PoA 4 is AAC 168 OTM. Please disregard the captions, those were made while drinking and being up for 18 hours. The firing order was 3, 4, 1, 2. Worth noting that the firing schedule was a bit fast as we were running out of sunlight. By the time I got to PoA 2 with the 175 SMK I was fighting so much mirage I was aiming at a red blob. Honestly I think group 2 could have been better if I would have allowed the barrel to cool. I also threw shot "1" under PoA 1. Also something interesting, the two shots at the middle were my first two shots and they were the same as the rest in the lower left corner. No adjustments were made between ANY groups.
##Pic 4:
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My first round of ammo testing. PoA 3 is AAC 168 OTM, apparently that was the one group I forgot to label. My firing schedule was a lot slower with this round of testing. I took notes after every shot. Remember kids, the difference between science and screwing around is writing stuff down!
##Pic 5:
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PoA 2 is mine. PoA 1 was a friend with his mostly stock Remington 700 in 308. We ran out of light for him to get his second volley of 5. It's also a perfect comparison for anyone thinking bolt vs gas guns. I could buy and replicate his rifle for probably half of what I have in mine, and cut my group sizing in half.
Summary: Buy an M1A/M14 because you want one, not because you want a proper long range gun. You'll sink a lot of money into it and never have a gun that will cut sub MOA groups en masse.
Disclaimer: Some may be offended by me saying the M1A is equivalent to the HK M110. For me, they are close enough. HKs website lists the G28 as "series-reproducible accuracy level of max. 1.5 MOA with 10 rounds of precision ammunition at 100 metres". I personally believe that I have achieved this with my rifle as I have 3, 10 round groups sub 1.5 MOA. And the Black Ops Defense G28 conversion is north of $6,000. All that being said, the AR10/M110/G28 is a lot more simple and easier of a gun to have.
I kept saying I would post my pride and joy, and this is me getting around to it.
A couple years ago I decided I wanted a battle rifle. I did a lot of research and decided that, at the end of the day, they were all about equal. Everyone would dog on the M14 for being "1-2 MOA" and how horrible it was. The next post would talk about the HK MR762 being a "laser" and how it was "1-2 MOA". I would still love an HK M110 build, but not for the price they are going for. Plus, you cannot, in my opinion, beat the style of the EBR.
##Pic 1 The Build:
I started with an older (I'm guessing 90s) SAI NM M1a, 22in stainless barrel. I liked shooting it in its wooden stock, but I had horrible cheek weld issues and chocked my accuracy issues up to that (sometimes my groups would stack, other times they would be 2 MOA). Knowing what I know now, looking back, it was a group sizing issue. After a lot of swearing and research, I found US Tactical Supply took over production of the EBR Chassis. After a year of gathering parts, my turn on the wait list came. Without further adieu, my build list:
*Surefire Warcomp, because I wanted to be able to throw a can on this thing one day and liked the looks of the Warcomp. The Surefire SOCOM is also supposed to be a high flow can, something critical for a gas gun. I may end up going with the Hux Wrx one day instead.
*Delta P muzzle adapter (from back when they were still making them). For the M14/M1A uninitiated, due to the nature of the beast, you cannot "just" throw this thing on there and throw any silencer you want. Things may not line up and you may have a baffle strike. Take it to someone and have everything checked for concentricity. There's lots of articles out there talking about this exact thing.
*Smith Enterprise Inc Warfighter gas system torqued to 120in-lbs. IIRC this is what the USMC shooting team used. I've seen some listed torque values that are higher, but I wasn't comfortable torquing something that small that high.
*Fulton Armory HD spring
*Sadlak NM guide rod
*Sadlak EBR Airborne Scope Mount
*Vortex 34mm low profile rings
*Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25, honestly I'm highly disappointed in this scope. At 300 yards, it was easier to spot misses in my buddies Venom. I wanted to go with something higher end, but budget started to run tight.
*Knights Armament Co Rifle Level, because why not.
*Atlas Bipod
This was all assembled by me in the basement one night. Part of the reason this rifle is my pride and joy.
##Pic 2:
Just for humor. I know this group doesn't qualify as "statistically relevant", but it's how I joke I have a sub MOA rifle. It's also a great example of how groupings can go. I believe it's a roughly .75 MOA grouping of 168 SMK. With ten round groupings, that bullet tends to lean towards 2 MOA
##Pic 3:
I've been testing ammo for giggles and this was my latest result. PoA 1 is Federal 168 SMK, PoA 2 is Federal 175 SMK, PoA 3 is AAC 175 OTM, PoA 4 is AAC 168 OTM. Please disregard the captions, those were made while drinking and being up for 18 hours. The firing order was 3, 4, 1, 2. Worth noting that the firing schedule was a bit fast as we were running out of sunlight. By the time I got to PoA 2 with the 175 SMK I was fighting so much mirage I was aiming at a red blob. Honestly I think group 2 could have been better if I would have allowed the barrel to cool. I also threw shot "1" under PoA 1. Also something interesting, the two shots at the middle were my first two shots and they were the same as the rest in the lower left corner. No adjustments were made between ANY groups.
##Pic 4:
My first round of ammo testing. PoA 3 is AAC 168 OTM, apparently that was the one group I forgot to label. My firing schedule was a lot slower with this round of testing. I took notes after every shot. Remember kids, the difference between science and screwing around is writing stuff down!
##Pic 5:
PoA 2 is mine. PoA 1 was a friend with his mostly stock Remington 700 in 308. We ran out of light for him to get his second volley of 5. It's also a perfect comparison for anyone thinking bolt vs gas guns. I could buy and replicate his rifle for probably half of what I have in mine, and cut my group sizing in half.
Summary: Buy an M1A/M14 because you want one, not because you want a proper long range gun. You'll sink a lot of money into it and never have a gun that will cut sub MOA groups en masse.
Disclaimer: Some may be offended by me saying the M1A is equivalent to the HK M110. For me, they are close enough. HKs website lists the G28 as "series-reproducible accuracy level of max. 1.5 MOA with 10 rounds of precision ammunition at 100 metres". I personally believe that I have achieved this with my rifle as I have 3, 10 round groups sub 1.5 MOA. And the Black Ops Defense G28 conversion is north of $6,000. All that being said, the AR10/M110/G28 is a lot more simple and easier of a gun to have.
