I use 3n1 oil and 0000 steel wool. Gets off the surface rust (can't do much about pits) and doesn't seem to affect the bluing or parkerizing.

 

I use lots of WD-40 and a rag. If I can not get all the rust with a cloth, I switch to OOOO steel wool. In areas where you cannot use steel wool, I use a brass cleaning brush, the tooth brush style ones. I only press as hard as required, and work slowly as not to damage the areas that do not have rust.

 

steel wool on a gun is a sin!

 

That's why I'm partial to copper pads and copper pennies. Copper won't fill pits but copper + a little oil is surface rust's worst nightmare. Naval Jelly is effective but it's extremely strong medicine, may lift your parkerizing right off.

 

I used to use naval jelly to remove both bluing and parkerizing.

 

Use Kroil on a toothbrush, that stuff works like magic on rust.

 

ding, ding, ding... Kroil is awesome!!!!!!

 

Rb 17

RB 17 is a product that I hadnt tried until a few months ago. My local gun shop has a class three license and they use it on all the machine guns. I tried it out on several old military guns and it was fantastic without harming the blue. For those who care. not only does it do an excellent job on fouling( both copper and lead) and rust, it is also biodegradeable.

 

Kroil/Bronze Wool

Kroil is the ticket, but you can try a Dobe scouring pad first, or a 3M green pad, those are gentler abrasion and neither will leave metal on your rifle. If those don't work, get the finest variety of bronze wool (paint section of a good hardware store) and use that. It tends to get just the rust, softer than the steel, while leaving the unrusted steel unmolested.

I've had some very good results with this method on weapons you'd never think would end up looking that good after the scouring.

Best!

 

I know this might sound strange but some oily thin leather like buckskin also will take off light rust.

 

My favorite technique for removing rust from carbon steel is electrolysis. It's very easy to set up a 'bath' at home.
Some water, laundry soda and a battery charger is all that you need. Once set up, just turn on the charger and walk away until it's done. The process will not harm the 'good' metal.

It may remove parkerizing and most definitely bluing but since you plan to restore the rifle I assume it will get refinished.

Here's a link for your reading pleasure; http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

I used this with great success on my BMW engine block and various smaller items.

 

Cheap automotive automatic transmission fluid works well. Another good one is Marvel Mystery Oil. Let things stay wet with these for a few days or weeks. During that time it can be wiped off with a cloth rag and more added to the surface of the metal.

 

I ended up using transmission fluid for soaking, and wd40 to rub of and repeat. A light steel brush and steel wool for scrubbing. Did the trick.
bevo.