[Conman]

Hi,

I will be buying a SA M1A NM very soon and I would like to know what my best option is for protecting the wood against the elements. I'm not too concerned with scratches and digs, but I am very concerned with the wood warping or expanding due to exposure to freezing temps, rain, snow, and summer heat. With that being said, what, if anything, can I do/apply to the rifle to protect it and preserve the accuracy of the bedded National Match? It must be a long lasting protectant because from what I've read the stock shouldn't be removed on more than an annual basis to preserve the bedding.

Thanks,
Connor

 

[levisdad]

Seal it up with tru-oil...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4952/Product/TRU-OIL-STOCK-FINISH

 

[bd111]

Seal it up with tru-oil...

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4952/Product/TRU-OIL-STOCK-FINISH

+1 Good product, less messy to work with than the varnishes, stock still looks like wood instead of a bowling ball.

 

[willriskit]

To really get good penetration, I still prefer boiled linseed oil. My USGI walnut M-14 stocks are generally dry when I buy them and it takes 4-5 applications and buffings to restore the lustre to the wood. This way, any additional type of finish is optional.

 

[CHARLIED308]

I am currently using Tru-Oil and i like it.

 

[liftrat22]

I use boiled linseed oil or pure tung oil on most of mine, but I don't get big changes in humidity here. I have a couple of stocks that I've spar varnished, using thinned coats to soak the end grains especially, as well as any stock openings. Yeah, it looks sort of plasticy but I believe it's a better moisture barrier than the PTO or BLO. From what I've read, Tru oil wouldn't be a bad choice either, especially if several coats are applied. Basically if you want to totally eliminate any stock shifting you're going to have to go with a synthetic.

 

[faawrenchbndr]

What is the normal wait time between coats of Tru-Oil?

 

[bd111]

What is the normal wait time between coats of Tru-Oil?

If you cut each coat 1/3 mineral spirits, 2/3 new TO probably a half-day in moderate humidity. Let the last coat dry a full day.

 

[bustedknuckles]

tung oil is good, prolly the best

 

[Oryguner]

TruOil was always a little to glossy for my taste and I prefer 100% Tung oil on my GI stocks.

 

[Powerkicker]

Blo

 

[Condor1970]

I have also heard of people creating some astoundingly beautiful Birch stocks using Cabots deck stain. I know, sounds crazy, but it really works. I tried it once.

When I built my cedar patio set, I helped a buddy of mine turn his beat up old birch stock (an old Savage 7mm), into what looks like a Big Red, because we used the Cabot Mahogany Flame stain. Looked fantastic.

Cabot outdoor deck stain is a blend of Tung-Oil and mineral oils to fully penentrate and seal the wood from some of the worst conditions imaginable. My patio set has been outside in the PacNW weather for 3 years now, and still looks the same as it did when it was first built. You can get it in many colors, even natural for plain wood grains.

 

[liftrat22]

Hmmm, that Cabot's sounds like it might be worth a try. I hadn't thought of a deck stain; thanks for the idea Condor.

 

[Gus Fisher]

Tru-oil is absolutely the best stuff you can normally find and apply yourself. Way, WAY better than any LO or BLO finish and still much better than Tung Oil or Danish Oil.

To get better than Tru Oil, you have to go with a Spar Varnish and after doing that a few times, I don't recommend it for gun stocks.

BLO? You might find this thread interesting:

http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/115405-will-real-blo-please-stand-up.html

 

[BlackArrow]

I use Teak Oil.