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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had made a few mods a while back to my RRA and just recently had a chance to get to the range. I replaced my stock (again) with an ACE skeleton full length variety. I also replaced the spring and buffer at the same time with all parts coming from JT Distributing's dealers table at a show in Nashville. While attempting to sight in a new Nikon scope my problems began almost immediately. First, failures to eject. Next, failure to fire due to the firing pin barely touching the primer. I soon realized the bolt wasn't going into battery. As it turns out, the buffer detent pin had pushed all the way out of the hole and the detent spring and pin were jammed under the bolt carrier. I guess things could've been much worse. No apparent damage besides the detent spring and pin other than scratches on the face of the buffer. Why would the detent pin fail to locate properly upon the face of the buffer? Please, help. I don't get much time at the range, especially to troubleshoot.
 

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There are two differnt lengths of buffer tubes and corresponding springs and buffers. There is the CAR and rifle length buffers, CAR lengths are used in collapsible stocks and rifle lengths are used in fixed stocks. From what it sounds like I think you may have put a CAR buffer and or spring in your ace stock and your problems should easily be resolved by replacing the spring and buffer with known rifle length parts.
 

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Not done right....

Failure to install the buffer tube correctly. If installed correctly you would not of had this issue. The detent and spring coming out is proof of this. The end of the buffer tube is used to help retain this detent. Then a wrench, yes a wrench is needed to tighten the buffer tube's shaft nut. If a wrench is not used it will come loose, the buffer tube will unscrew. The detent will eject its self out and into the bolt carrier relief slot for the hammer when the weapon is fired, and cause the said issues you are having.
I don't do ARs, but I have helped or done 50+ AR's assemblies in my life. I currently only own 5 or 6 ARs right now.

You have not had a stuck AR (as in it don't come apart) until you use a regular AR hammer in a 9mm AR version instead of a real AR 9mm hammer in the gun.
 
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In the gilded halls of Valhala
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this is why any good armorer may consider staking the castle nut.

use an ar wrenxh to get it food and tifht and it wont happen.

my ace pistol tube has a slot so the tube cant rotate, handy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone installed the full length Ace Skeleton stock? Is there a trick to putting a wrench on the castle nut while the foam rubber is on the buffer tube? Is it just a pain in the neck?
 

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I've seen this happen many times. It may seem the buffer tube is screwed all the way to the pin, but in reality, you may get one more turn. It's a common mistake by new armorers.

I did it myself about 20 years ago. I still hear about it from some coworkers.
 

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Ummmm I might be wrong but the full length skeleton stock doesn't use a castle nut. It is an A2tube that screws down flush to the receiver. If you try and put a castle nut on it it will take up to much space and not hold the detention in place
 

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The lip of your buffer tube is what holds that detent in place. The castle nut then holds the buffer tube in place. Maybe make sure the tube is installed correctly so that the detent doesn't come free then tighten and stake the castle nut.
 

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These are great if you plan on working on ARs. This will work to tighten the Buffer Tube Shaft nut.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/NcStar-Generation-Combo-Armorers-Wrench/dp/B00CDK4XLW[/ame]


Even a 1911 dissassembly feature on that tool, nice! That said, it is NC Star, don't know if I would want that tool anywhere near a decent AR....
 
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