Asking this on a Public Forum is like asking someone to give away their Grandma's Cornbread Recipe. With the way people "lurk" in internet forums these days, people learned their lesson back during the Sandy Hook Scare.
Don't wait to buy bullets (or powder/primer/brass) till you need more.
Buy them when you see them for a good price.
They don't go bad in the box/bag/shed/garage. Not bullets, not primers and not powder. The powder I'm using to reload 9MM/.40 S&W and .223/.308 has been stored in sheds/garages for several years (5 to 12 years, or more). I ran across a couple jugs of TAC awhile back that I vaguely remember buying, at least one of them. I don't remember buying the other one but I'll be developing a load for .308 (already have one for .30-06 and 150 grain FMJBT bullets). If it will work in .30-06 it should work in .308.
I don't let my vehicle gas tanks go below 1/2 a tank either, not even in the summer time.
If you wait till you need things to go look for/buy them you just set yourself up for the next shortage, of anything/everything.
Actually, primer and powder DO go bad if mishandled or stored. I recently proved this by using a single 6 year old sleeve of CCI that was stored in my garage, along with a few other test "subjects" I used. I'll post shortly on my findings.
Well, I didn't do a study. I just used up 4,000 primers I'd bought back in the early 1980's that I' forgotten about on a shelf in the attic After about 25 years of sitting up there in 100 F plus temps and ugly humidity of central VA. Along with cold damp winters. All of them went bang just fine and in good shooting rifles/pistols they shot good groups.
Similar story with the powder stored up there. The only powder I haven't used is the IMR4350, IMR4320 and IMR4065. The IMR4895, IMR3031, W748, H322, H335, BLC2 (may have been others) and the Unique, Bullseye, H110, and 2400 (pistol powders) was used up as well.
When my dad passed away I got all his shotgun powder and began using it in pistol ammo. Blue Dot (used it up and had to buy more), 700X (used it up), Herco (used it up and bought more), Red Dot (just started using it for 9MM), all worked as good as the new cans I replaced my stock with. That powder was stored in the back bedroom of my grandma/grandpa's old house for several years as dad used it and before I boxed it up for the trip to VA.
None of my data is anywhere but in a reloading log and I didn't record lot numbers, prices on the cans, etc. (though I wish I could still buy a 1 lb. can of powder for $8.95 and a 1,000 primers for $9.95).
I do believe extreme conditions can affect primers and powders. So far I've not been an area with temperatures extreme enough to cause me problems.
Oh, best group my 24" bull barreled vARmint rifle (AR15 with a 24" bullet barrel with a 1 turn in 10" barrel - slow as I could get at the time, for light bullets) ever was shot with a box of 45 grain varmint bullets loaded with BLC2 back in the early 80's and left sitting on a board in the ceiling of my attic for almost 30 years. Made me go buy some more BLC2 and .45 grain bullets, just for that rifle.
I have had dud rounds - from new Tula primers. Not from the 30 plus year old US made primers. All my Tula primers are going into lead practice rounds or 55 grain FMJ .223 ammo meant for the range.
I'm too lazy to put the time/effort into a detailed study. I just work up a reliable/accurate load and keep using it.
Seven years ago I started a "test" on the effects of climate, average humidity, and various storage conditions on Powder and Primers. It was prompted by one of the many discussions I had at the time with Chris Hodgdon, and last week I finalized my results. All under a controlled conditions...
Barrel in Springfield Loaded has what twist rate?
What M1A 308 barrel twists optimize which bullet weights?
Bullets that I plan on reloading for accuracy 100Yds to 300Yds punching paper:
Inquiring mind wants to know.
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