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Just back from the range, and I've had a strange problem..
Today I fired my rifle dry, just to see how it goes.. It is a battle rifle..

Every 10-15 rnds I would fire and get that feeling that the mag is empty, you know I guess just slightly less of a kick, and a open sond as if the bolt is held open. Well, I'dd check it out and the bolt wouldn't be fully closed, I'd tap it with my palm, regain my cheek position and squeeze the trigger and the hammer just drops.. Nothing..
Pull back the charging handle and it'll eject the spent cartridge I just shot..
Its as if it sent the Op rod only partilly back.. I never seen anyone post anything like this.. Anyone have any clues why this is happening?
It never did this when bolt and op rod is greased. (I know.. Grease the op rod and bolt!! :roll: ) I want this to run no matter what arises.. My life may depend on this one day. Thanks for any help.

P.S The ammo used was both Aussie and Port.
 

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Aloha MarchOrDie:

As I've understood the M14 and M1 Garand design, it was not meant to be run totally dry... even a small dab of grease goes a long way.

I believe there a "dry" lubricants now (for those dusty areas) that will still allow proper function of your rifle but not attract dust and grime... I think it was called Militec. A lubricant that is supposed to be absorbed or imbedded into the metal and when dry produces a slick surface for proper funtionality.

I am guessing though as I have never run my rifles totally "dry"...

Aloha, Best of Luck and Happy Holidays!

Tom O.
 

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I would be the first to say grease the thing . But if ya gotta run it dry perhaps using Dri-slide would work . I dunno I never tried it and with the grease I have on hand I ain't gonna try .
I do believe that as the rifle gets more were on it it may be less critical than it is now though .

Jack
 

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MarchorDie, I'm not sure how old the rifle is by your post, but if the recoil spring is a bit old you might consider replacing it. Even if it isn't you might be able to solve the problem of the bolt not closing all the way when cycling by uping the spring with a extra power spring. That will give just a little more that might help. But as the guys said the M14 was not designed to run dry. I've never used Miltec but I've used Tetra for quite a while on all of my firearms, M1A included. It has a fluoropolymer that will inbed itself in the metal to keep lubricating after it's been wiped away. But the M14/M1A should be lubricated unless you ran out in a situation were you had no choice. Brownells sells the springs in there brand and Wolff's. Lionseye

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...title=RIFLE+TUNE-UP+KITS+&+INDIVIDUAL+SPRINGS
 

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;) Make sure your Gas CYL. Lock is vertical(Screwdriver Slot up and down), like azski said Gas Cyl Plug tight and if so like Frankie Vallie sang Grease is the Word! ;)
 

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I would suspect a dirty gas system for short stroking...disassemble your gas cylinder and make sure it is perfectly clean, and see if that makes a difference.

But just like your car would probably not roll very far down the road if there were no grease in the wheel bearings, your rifle is most likely doing exactly what you would expect it to do when bone dry.

It was designed to be properly maintained, lubed and greased except in sub-arctic conditions. A rifle in the field would probably never be "absolutely" dry...even under relatively extreme environmental conditions, as some lube will still be present. The military lubes even from WWII are designed to be waterproof.

You could have the operating surfaces coated with a moly finish that retains lubricating qualities when dry, but for SHTF I would keep a couple of GI grease pots in the butt.

That is what those holes are there for.

Merry Christmas all!!!

TC

PS If you were a good boy maybe Santa will put some in your stocking.
 

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What TC said is not Bad advise but I shoot my Match Rifles a Season without taking them apart, not even the Gas System(which can be done from the Front)unless you have 1K or more thru there I wouldent look for a Problem in that Direction! :?
 

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Did ya try cleaning the gas piston and plug ?
I just sold a few drills for that purpose.

It could be that, not enough pressure is in the gas sytem to fully cycle.
The op-rod sping is a good thing to replace too.
The timing sounds good so, I doubt that is the problem.




 
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