XM25Ren,
Works every time!This is how the pros do it, works like a charm.
First off here are the things you will need to make this quick, painless and have the look of a pro.
1. Lacquer Stik in you choice of color(Yellow,White or Red) they all look good when done right.
2. Mineral Oil
3. Typing Paper(garden variety nothing special)
4. Qtips(swabs)
5. Acetone
6. Cotton Balls
7. Bowl
First cut the typing paper into strips, for working with windage and elevation knobs you will need to cut the strips about a half inch wide and two or three inches in length. When working on the heel stamp cut about an inch wide and three inches in length.
Make sure to cut plenty as typing paper is cheap and you will need lots.
Pour a very small amount of mineral oil in a bowl, it will be used for removing excess paint.
Everything else being laid out and ready for use.
The very first thing that needs to be done is cleaning the area that is to be painted, this is done with the acetone and the cotton balls. I hold the cotton ball over the opening to the acetone bottle and tip over. Then I commence to wiping the area thoroughly, repeat until you are 100 percent certain the oils and other contaminates have been removed.
Next take your paint stik and sharpen the edge much like you would a pencil, just not quite as sharp. Take the stik and rub it across the stamp in one direction and then the other making sure to completely fill in the lettering. Try to be careful and do the best you can without getting paint all over the place, but not to worry as clean up will be a piece of pie(Indian Humor) its really cake!
Now heres where the typing paper comes in, take your paper in hand and wipe in one direction only and only once, pickup another piece of typing paper and wipe again lightly. When you have wiped to the point the paper is still clean you have done all you can do with the dry paper. Now you will carefully bend the next piece of typing paper in half and dip the bend barely touching the mineral oil. You don't want much on the paper, now wipe again just like before, in one direction only and only once or twice and very lightly. Continue on like this until all the excess paint has been removed. Remember to wipe lightly and don't saturate your typing paper with mineral oil. Then take a dry strip of paper and wipe away the excess mineral oil. You can experiment and find what works best for you, but this will get you started with great results!
If you do make a mistake just start all over it is that easy. I myself can literally do a heel stamp in like five minutes.
Now put it away and don't touch it for at least 24 hours or longer and it will turn out perfect.
The key to a job well done is having no excess paint, so you get a good contrast between color and park.
The windage and pinion knobs are a bit more tricky but basically the same, just more delicate. I use the swabs to clean the knobs raised edges, just dip them in the mineral oil and go to work.
Good Luck!
Ren
Outstanding sir! I thought, man how in the heck is he doing this? I assumed it was a very painful process to do. I love the results though even more so on iron sights. Thanks XM25Ren for helping us out with this. I think I'll try it first on an old beater glock to sorta get the feel. Then step up to some battle rifles.This is how the pros do it, works like a charm.
First off here are the things you will need to make this quick, painless and have the look of a pro.
1. Lacquer Stik in you choice of color(Yellow,White or Red) they all look good when done right.
2. Mineral Oil
3. Typing Paper(garden variety nothing special)
4. Qtips(swabs)
5. Acetone
6. Cotton Balls
7. Bowl
First cut the typing paper into strips, for working with windage and elevation knobs you will need to cut the strips about a half inch wide and two or three inches in length. When working on the heel stamp cut about an inch wide and three inches in length.
Make sure to cut plenty as typing paper is cheap and you will need lots.
Pour a very small amount of mineral oil in a bowl, it will be used for removing excess paint.
Everything else being laid out and ready for use.
The very first thing that needs to be done is cleaning the area that is to be painted, this is done with the acetone and the cotton balls. I hold the cotton ball over the opening to the acetone bottle and tip over. Then I commence to wiping the area thoroughly, repeat until you are 100 percent certain the oils and other contaminates have been removed.
Next take your paint stik and sharpen the edge much like you would a pencil, just not quite as sharp. Take the stik and rub it across the stamp in one direction and then the other making sure to completely fill in the lettering. Try to be careful and do the best you can without getting paint all over the place, but not to worry as clean up will be a piece of pie(Indian Humor) its really cake!
Now heres where the typing paper comes in, take your paper in hand and wipe in one direction only and only once, pickup another piece of typing paper and wipe again lightly. When you have wiped to the point the paper is still clean you have done all you can do with the dry paper. Now you will carefully bend the next piece of typing paper in half and dip the bend barely touching the mineral oil. You don't want much on the paper, now wipe again just like before, in one direction only and only once or twice and very lightly. Continue on like this until all the excess paint has been removed. Remember to wipe lightly and don't saturate your typing paper with mineral oil. Then take a dry strip of paper and wipe away the excess mineral oil. You can experiment and find what works best for you, but this will get you started with great results!
If you do make a mistake just start all over it is that easy. I myself can literally do a heel stamp in like five minutes.
Now put it away and don't touch it for at least 24 hours or longer and it will turn out perfect.
The key to a job well done is having no excess paint, so you get a good contrast between color and park.
The windage and pinion knobs are a bit more tricky but basically the same, just more delicate. I use the swabs to clean the knobs raised edges, just dip them in the mineral oil and go to work.
Good Luck!
Ren
See, thats what I'm talking about. I was thinking either you guys sent them off for this or you were using a needle and poking it in there. Obviously my incorrect method would take ages and probably look like dog doo-doo. You guys have some awesome tricks in your tool boxes.I had no idea its that simple to do. My sound silly but I like it.Works every time!
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Thanks for this write up. I have 3 of these I bought at Dallas Market Hall gun show like 6 years back wrapped and looking brand new so took a chance as she only wanted like $14 ea. as best i can remember. It's about time I start using them.So, I ran across an infamous "W" magazine at the gun show last weekend, and since the guy agreed to trade straight-up for an item that I had with me (that I had gotten for free)- I went ahead with the trade. Based upon all of the information I can find- I have a "fake" M14 magazine. However, I took it to the range yesterday- and as they say... the proof's in the pudding.
This mag holds 20 rounds without issue, it locks in solidly, there's no mag follower tilt issues, every round fed and ejected properly... bottom line: it performed no differently than any of the CMI or USGI magazines I've used in my M1A.
I will continue to test this mag, but as far as I can tell- it's equal to all of the other "known-quality" magazines I currently have...
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