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"W" Magazine Review

895 Views 26 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  mic52
So, I ran across an infamous "W" magazine at the gun show last weekend, and since the guy agreed to trade straight-up for an item that I had with me (that I had gotten for free)- I went ahead with the trade. Based upon all of the information I can find- I have a "fake" M14 magazine. However, I took it to the range yesterday- and as they say... the proof's in the pudding.

This mag holds 20 rounds without issue, it locks in solidly, there's no mag follower tilt issues, every round fed and ejected properly... bottom line: it performed no differently than any of the CMI or USGI magazines I've used in my M1A.

I will continue to test this mag, but as far as I can tell- it's equal to all of the other "known-quality" magazines I currently have...

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Sorry to say, but it is not a Westinghouse magazine, it is a reproduction, copy or fake. That doesn’t mean its not a good mag, just means it is not USGI.

REN

MORE THAN A HOBBY, A PASSION!
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What are the tells that the above mag is fake. I have only one, thought I had a couple. With mine the W is much lower and the catch spot welds are only 4 and not 6 as above.
And those are the main differences my friend.

REN

MORE THAN A HOBBY, A PASSION!
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^^^^^^^^^^Explain the KMT 7 and 9 spot welds^^^^^^^^^^^^^

IMHO, I don’t think Uncle Sam cared about the number of spot welds only there size that the front seam/spline couldn’t be peeled apart.
Phil, we are talking about the Westinghouse “W” stamped M14 magazine, which all originals had 12 +1. Kleen Machine Tool co. did make the two odd ball seven and nine welds but were the only ones to do so, ALL other USGI magazines had the 12+1 welds.

It is my opinion that KMTco. did not make many because they are extremely had to find.

I have had several fake M14 magazines one stamped with the “W” and the other stamped with “SA”, both exhibited the same weld pattern of the fake in the OPs original post.


REN

MORE THAN A HOBBY, A PASSION!
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This is how the pros do it, works like a charm.

First off here are the things you will need to make this quick, painless and have the look of a pro.

1. Lacquer Stik in you choice of color(Yellow,White or Red) they all look good when done right.
2. Mineral Oil
3. Typing Paper(garden variety nothing special)
4. Qtips(swabs)
5. Acetone
6. Cotton Balls
7. Bowl

First cut the typing paper into strips, for working with windage and elevation knobs you will need to cut the strips about a half inch wide and two or three inches in length. When working on the heel stamp cut about an inch wide and three inches in length.
Make sure to cut plenty as typing paper is cheap and you will need lots.

Pour a very small amount of mineral oil in a bowl, it will be used for removing excess paint.

Everything else being laid out and ready for use.

The very first thing that needs to be done is cleaning the area that is to be painted, this is done with the acetone and the cotton balls. I hold the cotton ball over the opening to the acetone bottle and tip over. Then I commence to wiping the area thoroughly, repeat until you are 100 percent certain the oils and other contaminates have been removed.

Next take your paint stik and sharpen the edge much like you would a pencil, just not quite as sharp. Take the stik and rub it across the stamp in one direction and then the other making sure to completely fill in the lettering. Try to be careful and do the best you can without getting paint all over the place, but not to worry as clean up will be a piece of pie(Indian Humor) its really cake!

Now heres where the typing paper comes in, take your paper in hand and wipe in one direction only and only once, pickup another piece of typing paper and wipe again lightly. When you have wiped to the point the paper is still clean you have done all you can do with the dry paper. Now you will carefully bend the next piece of typing paper in half and dip the bend barely touching the mineral oil. You don't want much on the paper, now wipe again just like before, in one direction only and only once or twice and very lightly. Continue on like this until all the excess paint has been removed. Remember to wipe lightly and don't saturate your typing paper with mineral oil. Then take a dry strip of paper and wipe away the excess mineral oil. You can experiment and find what works best for you, but this will get you started with great results!

If you do make a mistake just start all over it is that easy. I myself can literally do a heel stamp in like five minutes.

Now put it away and don't touch it for at least 24 hours or longer and it will turn out perfect.

The key to a job well done is having no excess paint, so you get a good contrast between color and park.

The windage and pinion knobs are a bit more tricky but basically the same, just more delicate. I use the swabs to clean the knobs raised edges, just dip them in the mineral oil and go to work.

Good Luck!

Ren
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