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Vertical and Horizontal agreement..

1098 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  art luppino
This is a subject that M1A owners that are interested in getting the most accuracy potential should understand. I say should, because if it is not understood, how would you know when you have it. Maybe that sentence should read, nobody likes to admit they don't understand in public.

The upper assembly needs to be at a right angle to the platform {stock] in two places. The receiver needs to be 90 degrees to the stock routing. The most practical place on the stock to make that determination is across the heel area where the receiver heel is going to ride on the stock. The second place is across the top surfaces of the stock ferrule tenon.

You need a quality level and means to hold the stock secure to make this determination.

Most of the time you are going to find, even with the Top of the line stocks, these two horizontal surfaces are not in compliance. This is not the time to start removing stock material however. There is a third factor, the obdurate stock ferrule.. It is not going to make any difference rather your ferrule is standard, as issued, or modified, opened up for clearance, at this point.. A modified ferrule does not mean it is going to locate in the proper position.. Please read that last sentence again.

With the stock secured in a position where the heel surface is level, hand install the ferrule, may need a tap or two, now check across the top of the ferrule. Sometimes this brings the desired compliance into being without stock tenon modifications.

If, with the ferrule installed a non compliance condition still exists the modification should be done to the tenon.. If you attempt to make mods elsewhere, chances are the stock will become Rojkohed.. Art
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Art, what is the prefered tool to modify the stock. ? I have heard that a BMF hammeris the best, but some ill informed folks think a ball pein is better. What say you???
 

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MSgt Mike Gingher, who was my dearest friend in life and a mentor who really helped me learn the "metal" part of the trade used to say, "Gus SCARED the crap out of me when he would pick up the largest, coursest HORSE RASP he could find and have at it on wood M14 stocks when cleaning up after glass bedding. He would take .025" off the surface or MORE with a single pass, but somehow STOP before he filed too much."

Mike's background was as a tool and die grinder machinist, so hand filing in his experience was in metal where you often had to take two or more file strokes to take even .001" off the surface of metal. My background was all wood, so I had no problem hogging off wood or glass in quantities that made him VERY uncomfortable. Grin.
 

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It only takes a min. to heat and remove an epoxied ferrule.. Well worth doing.. How does that folder work for you? Art
Now Art, I'm sure you and I have never had to do that.........GRIN.

I think I glued the rear band backwards to a handguard TWICE in all the years I've done it, but I still remember cussing myself out ROYALLY for doing it and having to go back and fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I use a very low flame on a propane torch, putting a damp rag around the wood area so as not to blister the finish, it only requires a short heating. and can be tapped off using the inside edge and screwdriver.. Regards, Art
 
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