[LOCK_N_LOAD]

I took apart a couple of USGI trigger groups the other day. No problems on the disassembly, just a few snags on the reassembly.

I wanted to swap a few hammers, exchange a safety or a trigger guard here and there. I kept the springs and pins with their original housings.

Anyhow, boy were a couple of the trigger springs diffecult to push back into place and get pinned. I finally got them all back together and checked for function and fit...... all is well.

I just wanted to air out the frustrations, it was one of them,..... o.k. let it lay and work on the others then go back to the problem child.

But it was worth it, now I have matching housing, hammer & safetys on four t. groups. Most of them even improved the overall looks matching the park better :!:

Anyone have any tips or was it just a stiffer spring on a couple of them :?:

LMK,

 

[Biathlon]

triggergroupreassy

Brownells sells a chingadera that works real well. It's a jig affair that you just load your parts into then compress and drop all the pins right in. Trung Si, did I say that right?

 

[30Caliber]

I don't think they're all that bad after you do it a time or two. I do always seem to have a problem of spending five minutes trying to stick the big end of the hammer pin first.

The worst thing is drifting out the trigger pin with the hammer still c*ocked.

Ty

 

[Tommo]

The more you work on them the easier it gets, I think, ha, ha!

Just be sure to test if the hammer follows the bolt with the new parts installed. Hold the trigger back and run the oprod and bolt back and forth. If the hammer follows the bolt and does not stay cocked, then you have a sear/hammer hook problem. If you fired the rifle with this condition, could result in an out of battery ignition, Kaboom, which is very unhealthy!

 

[r0nbo]

trigger group re-assembly

yeah my trigger has started doing that ever since I changed the safety in it. I have no idea why or how to fix it short of buying another. Physical limitations preclude me from taking it apart again. Ive only shot it once in the last year and I couldnt figure out why I had to keep recocking it.

 

[flcracker]

yeah my trigger has started doing that ever since I changed the safety in it. I have no idea why or how to fix it short of buying another. Physical limitations preclude me from taking it apart again. Ive only shot it once in the last year and I couldnt figure out why I had to keep recocking it.

:arm23:

STOP! DO NOT SHOOT THIS RIFLE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!

This malfunction should have been caught during the function test that you should have done after changing your safety. The rifle should have never been fired in this condition.

Pull your trigger group and either take it to a qualified armorer in your area, or send it to one of the fine fellows on this board. Including postage both ways, this fix should be less than $50.

Not to make light of your situation, but whatever physical limiations that you have now would likely PALE in comparison to the possible results of an out-of-battery explosion.

flcracker

 

[r0nbo]

Checking the group after assembly revealed nothing. It worked fine and will do so UNTIL the stock is added to the mix. Doesnt matter which stock either as I have 2. When assembled with a stock the hammer will not catch the back hooks. Friends have shot this gun and it worked for them but they are the type who release a trigger immediately after firing so the hammer was catching on the front hooks for them. I hold the trigger back and the hammer misses the back hooks and follow the bolt shut. I will not fire this gun until I cure it of course. I'm stumped but it looks to me like the bolt is not pushing the hammer down far enough for the back hooks to catch it. Very strange. When the group is attached minus the stock it works fine. Kinda hard to shoot like that though.

 

[45B20]

rOnbo
Given that your rifle works out of the stock and has problems only when it is assembled to your stock, leads me to believe the cause for your problem is the rear tang (the part of the housing were the trigger guard locks) of the trigger housing is being bent down when the rifle is assembled in the stock (this will intern pulls the trigger down far enough that the sear/trigger will not engage the hammer hooks). This problem on both stocks does add some concern,, so only do this work on one of your stocks. Incorrect bedding (excessive material) at the point were the housing tang’s seats can cause this problem, or foreign material at this point can also cause this problem. If no foreign material is found, remove wood/fiberglass from the area of the stock were the tang seats, no more than 1/64” at a time, reassemble, test (hammer forward, hold trigger back, oprod sharply to rear, and release oprod). Do this until problem is corrected. That is when, with the oprod/bolt to the rear, trigger pulled to the rear and the oprod/bolt released, the sear catches the rear hammer hooks,, and then the trigger is released it catches the front hammer hooks EVERY TIME. Your problem should be corrected by the time you have removed 1/16”, or maybe a bit more. When the problem is corrected on a wood stock, SCRAPE just a bit more wood out and reseal the wood. Now, a disclaimer, all my experience has been with GI stocks and trigger housings. With an after market stock/trigger housing/s (if that is what you have) an alignment problem may be present, or if an attempt at rebedding has altered the receiver/stock alignment you will need to correct this first, (rebed with glass or repace the stock).

Your problem with both stocks is confusing the issue. Before you start work do an inspection of your rifle, check the gas system and make sure that the oprod is contacting the receiver on full recoil.

What kind of manual/s are you using??

A very damp climate can be the cause of this problem, were I was, (Vietnam), it was common enough that I made a chisel shaped to fit this part of the stock. When the GI fiberglass stocks started to arrive we thought this problem was solved. However many of these fiberglass stocks were incorrectly made and displayed this problem upon assembly, when material was remove at the trigger tang bedding area, it corrected the problem, although at times more than 1/16” of fiberglass needed to be removed. A chisel does not cut GI fiberglass very well, I made a small rasp to do this work.
45B20

 

[r0nbo]

One stock is aftermarket of some type and the other is a GI I got from Freds. The aftermarket one has bedding in it and it wasnt made for this gun. The GI stock is as issued. I suspect the hammer is worn down and the bolt doesnt push it far enough but it used to work and that was with the aftermarket stock. Its an Armscorp rcvr and the other parts are GI some NM sights. Its got me bugged and I will mess with it when I can.
oprod contacting the rear of the rcvr? not sure what you mean here
manual? we dont need no steenking manual? no I dont have a book for it. I am relying on what I remember from being in the service with them. I dont think any of them cover this problem. I didnt know you were having trouble with them in Nam as I was in Berlin all of 67. I was out just before Tet or they might have kept me.

 

[warbird]

:arm23:

STOP! DO NOT SHOOT THIS RIFLE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!

Not to make light of your situation, but whatever physical limiations that you have now would likely PALE in comparison to the possible results of an out-of-battery explosion.

flcracker

I have to agree.
Sounds like the sear is a little short. 8O

 

[45B20]

rOnbo
I meant to say was that the rear of the oprod should strike/contact the front of the receiver. That is: that part of the oprod into which the oprod spring and guide go, should contact the front of the receiver when at full recoil.

Your description of your problem is confusing; if your problem is “hammer follows bolt” it should occur no matter who is firing it, (assuming same ammo and parts). I do not think that any one can consistently (if at all) get off the trigger soon enough to be catching the hammer’s trigger (front) hooks with the trigger engagement surfaces with any regularity at all. Your friends should be experiencing some of the problems you are. Are they using the same ammo as you are???

Your problem could be “short recoil” and your friends could be holding the rifle firmly enough that the bolt will go just far enough to the rear to catch the sear. When your friends are firing this rifle, is the bolt locked to the rear on the last round???

Your rifle function tests ok when out of the stock, but not when assembled with the stock. This still sounds like a bedding problem, however with your other problems I am not positive.

rOnbo, with your being in Berlin in 67 makes us about the same age. I hate to be the one to tell you this, but one of the first things to go is your memory. Trying to remember what your were taught 30 or 40 years ago is asking for trouble, (and it appears you may have already found it). BUY A MANUAL, if you are only going to get one I suggest Duff and Miller’s, “the M14 Owner’s Guide”, about $20. The FM and TM 9-1005-223-12 would be nice also. And READ it/them, while you do, have your rifle in front of you, dissemble the trigger housing, or have someone elce do it while you read from the manual, do you have the hammer spring housing in correctly?? why did you change the safety?? how are the trigger and hammer?? has someone been “working” on their engagement points?? I strongly suggest you buy an unissued GI hammer and trigger assy. Try Bill Ricca for these. Using the manual install these new parts and function test the rifle.

When you have gotten to know your rifle a bit better, you will be able to identify the problem/s more clearly, then, ask more questions, we/I will do are best to answer them

If this whole thing is more than you want to tackle, take the rifle to someone who can.
One way or another, fix the problem, if you manage to fire this rifle out of battery (bolt not fully locked) you will most likely seriously damage the rifle and possibly yourself.
45B20