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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edited for more clarity

My trigger will sometimes not reset back to the first take-up stage even when I hold it back after that shot is fired.

It seems to do this quite inconsistently, and when I go to squeeze the trigger again I get a surprise that I'm not expecting.

I know that some of us like to be surprised by the shot but this is not what's happening exactly if you know what I mean.

When I first got it I was kind of babying the trigger and would end up getting a double fire.
I read quite a bit about this happening when I first got it.



My question is what what I have to do to change this to a regular G.I. trigger?

What components will I need to change? Trigger, hammer?
 

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If you want to go lighter, with minimal takeup, and smooth pull ?

Then shooting sights NM trigger and hammer combo.

If you want to go GI, replace the hammer, trigger, and spring should do it I would think. But that will be heavier, and grittier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you want to go lighter, with minimal takeup, and smooth pull ?

Then shooting sights NM trigger and hammer combo.

If you want to go GI, replace the hammer, trigger, and spring should do it I would think. But that will be heavier, and grittier.
I was just looking at shooting sights triggers!

Looks like a good deal?
 

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For a start, I would recommend going to CMP's estore and getting an M1 trigger/sear and hammer for a total of about 50 bucks. Install them and see what you think. I love the feel of them in most of my rifles.
If that is not what you are looking for then I would go with Art's adjustable trigger set up. Photo is of Shootingsights' adjustable EBR trigger I received from Art at Camp Perry last year.

[URL=http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/nf1e/media/IMG_0558_zpsanz2n13r.jpg.html][/URL]

Semper Fi
ArtB
 

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if I don't constantly remember to deliberately pull it back while holding it tight to my shoulder it will double on me.

It will sometimes not reset all the way forward either if I don't remember to let it spring back on it's own, and slowly release it forward, therefore loosing it's first stage.


I would like to get something with a lighter pull but still reliable.
To be honest, what you are describing is "normal" for a M1/M14 trigger. You have to pull back fully, and let it release forward fully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To be honest, what you are describing is "normal" for a M1/M14 trigger. You have to pull back fully, and let it release forward fully.
Thanks, but I do do that.

I've went back and edited my original post now that I know better how to explain what's going on.

What is happening is it is not releasing all the way forward and Instead just stopping at the break, therefore there is no take up at all.

Shouldn't it go all the way forward after i release it every time?

Like I said it is not doing this and just releasing as far as the final break after take-up.

It seems to be doing this quite erratically.. Which leads me to believe that there may be a problem.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

My apologies for not originally explaining this better.
 

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Thanks for the thread. It is good after the new year to have a reason to put the thinking cap on.
 

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Ok, so that's a completely different horse of another color.

Take the TG out and manually work it. Do you need to manually move the trigger forward like it's binding or not enough hammer spring force? Could be worn out spring or pin.


Thanks, but I do do that.

I've went back and edited my original post now that I know better how to explain what's going on.

What is happening is it is not releasing all the way forward and Instead just stopping at the break, therefore there is no take up at all.

Shouldn't it go all the way forward after i release it every time?

Like I said it is not doing this and just releasing as far as the final break after take-up.

It seems to be doing this quite erratically.. Which leads me to believe that there may be a problem.

Thanks again everyone for the help.

My apologies for not originally explaining this better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so that's a completely different horse of another color.

Take the TG out and manually work it. Do you need to manually move the trigger forward like it's binding or not enough hammer spring force? Could be worn out spring or pin.
Okay cool, I will definitely take it apart and try that tonight.

I do know that when it is in the rifle and does not reset all the way forward I cannot manually move it forward at all it just stays right at the breaking point.
 

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Check and see how it functions when the stock is not involved. Lock it into the reciever and test.
 

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Okay cool, I will definitely take it apart and try that tonight.

I do know that when it is in the rifle and does not reset all the way forward I cannot manually move it forward at all it just stays right at the breaking point.
Either something is dragging the trigger/sear (cracked trigger pin?), or the backside of the hammer hooks were stoned to reduce the 1st stage, requiring the emery cloth fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay I just took it out of the stock and reinserted it in just the action and I still get the same results.

I also took it outside of the action and it looks like it is not seating fully back into the hammer hooks when it does this and with it out of the action I can actually pull it all the way forward to fully reset.

I took some pics below and outlined in red the bottom of the hammer hooks in before and after pics.

The first pic is of it fully seated into the hammer hooks.

The second pic is what happens when it does not fully seat and let the trigger reset all the way forward.

I wonder if I were to try that Emery cloth trick from above if that would stop this from happening and smooth things up a little bit. It almost feels like the hammer spring is too strong and causing it to bind.



 

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I can't tell from the pics, but when the 1st stage is pulled, the sear should come to contact the back hammer hooks, and the front hammer hooks should have approximately 20 thou of engagement with the trigger. Pics hard to see but it looks like there is no sear contact with the rear hammer hooks? Or is that just the camera angle.
 

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What is likely going on is that someone did a poor trigger job, and your hooks are unequal lengths, so the back hook that you cannot see has dropped off the edge, while the front hook is still engaged. Very dangerous, as you can remove your finger from the trigger, think you are safe, but a jar or bump could set it off.

Problem is that there is just enough tension that once one hook drops off, it does not want to re-engage.

The emery trick can put enough sear engagement back into the trigger that you hit the second stage while both hooks are still engaged. That way, if you do not take the shot, the trigger will fully re-engage/
 
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