[Nemosengineer]

I have a few small parts that have been stoned to remove burrs. I would like to touch up the Parkerizing in the affected areas. I do not want to re-Parkerize the parts as I prefer to keep whats left of the original Parkerizied finish. All advise is welcome, what do you recommend?

Thanks: Mike BIGTHUMPUP

 

[MemphisMachinists]

I use something called "tool black" it is very similar to gun blueing. It does not match parkerizing, but gives a nice protective covering that will prevent rust. Also does not stick to parkerizing so it doesn't really afect the rest of the part, just the shiny metal. It is a three part system and as always read and follow lable directions.

 

[SixTGunr]

May want to try some cold/super blue ...

Some times you have to add a second, third or fourth coat but
it has worked for me on several "items" I own ...

Just a thought ...

Six

 

[fortymikemike]

plus one on cold blue.like sixT says 3-4 dabbed coats.I then wipe it off when i see it haze up. then i follow it up with some CLP on a rag.the finished result looks like parkerizing.works for me all the time.GI6

 

[82nd ABN]

I'll third the super blue! Works good just make sure you get all the grease and oil removed before you apply it.

 

[Nemosengineer]

With this kind of response the choice is easy... "Birchwood Casey Super Blue". Thanks to all for responding and thank you MemphisMachinists for the recommendation of "tool black", I will research that product before I order.

Best Wishes To All: Mike

 

[8Ball]

With this kind of response the choice is easy... "Birchwood Casey Super Blue". Thanks to all for responding and thank you MemphisMachinists for the recommendation of "tool black", I will research that product before I order.

Best Wishes To All: Mike

Check these out: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4942/Product/SUPER_BLACK_INSTANT_TOUCH_UP_PEN

and: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24775/Product/PRESTO_reg__GUN_BLUE_PEN

I have not used this myself, anybody try one of these??

 

[leadbug]

I saw a guy in the arms room (before I signed for it) while I was in the Army, dunk a whole 1911 frame & slide it that stuff (or something like it).

Needless to say it did not work. What a mess! That was so wrong. Actually it might not have been that stuff. It was more like a really thick paint, and the blueing did not take.

 

[FPeel]

Check these out: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4942/Product/SUPER_BLACK_INSTANT_TOUCH_UP_PEN

and: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24775/Product/PRESTO_reg__GUN_BLUE_PEN

I have not used this myself, anybody try one of these??

I tried the Super Black Touch Pen and was not impressed. In so many words, applying it did nothing at all.

The contents of the pen were extremely watery; so much so that I wonder if it was a bad batch. Has anyone else tried it?

 

[Rubline]

If you are looking for a blacken finish, you might want to consider Caswells Gel Kit. 20.00 for the 4 oz kit that includes the blackener, and sealer. Real simple to use.

 

[MadMinute]

Cold blue works like a charm. The best is Oxpho-blue that I got at Brownells. The cream is the material that works. Here is a link:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1108/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg__CREME

Follow the links. Placing some on 0000 steel wool accelerates the darkening process. It reacts with the steel wool and accelerates the reaction on other metals as well. The steel wool surface area is the key here. Use this to darken the metal as you see fit. Follow the directions, degrease, wipe clean, apply, stop with water and repeat. Steel wool can always be used to remove any light blue sheen that is sometimes seen if directions are not followed. Reaction is 100% stopped by oil addition. That is why you must degrease first.

Easy enough....

I agree the pen is terrible.

 

[bd111]

The G96 product that comes in a tube is similar, blends well with dark park for small touch-up.

 

[82nd ABN]

Cold blue works like a charm. The best is Oxpho-blue that I got at Brownells. The cream is the material that works. Here is a link:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1108/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg__CREME

Follow the links. Placing some on 0000 steel wool accelerates the darkening process. It reacts with the steel wool and accelerates the reaction on other metals as well. The steel wool surface area is the key here. Use this to darken the metal as you see fit. Follow the directions, degrease, wipe clean, apply, stop with water and repeat. Steel wool can always be used to remove any light blue sheen that is sometimes seen if directions are not followed. Reaction is 100% stopped by oil addition. That is why you must degrease first.

Easy enough....

I agree the pen is terrible.

I thougth super blue and oxpho blue were the same thing. I stand corrected from my earlier post, I just checked and the oxpho blue is the one I have on the bench as well. It does work well to touch up shiny spots or bare metal with a couple of applications. I use it to darken the bolt and receiver lugs after I lap the bolts in. I also did an entire trigger group And op rod with it. all I was looking for was some protection against rust. Is it as good as dipping it in a tank, I don't think so but it does work great for touch ups. First time I saw it used was at a gunsmith shop. I had no idea what the horrible smell was. Smelled like someone at a couple of cans of beans the night before and thought someone was doing the one cheek sneak fir a couple of hours. Then I used it and the lightbulb went off above my head. It does have an stink odor to it so don't use it around the wife or girlfriend she may have similar thoughts and run for the hills.

 

[Visigoth9]

+1 on Super Blue...and yes it does stink big time...

I always get funny looks when shopping used weapons in a Gun Store

when they see me sniffing the firearms for signs of cold blue

 

[Charlie Xray]

A lot of mil collectors use Oxpho Blue from Brownell's for park touchup.

CX

 

[Rocket6R]

I've use aluminum black (birchwood casey) for years on parked finishes. It works very well.

 

[mvintx]

I've used a Black Sharpie a few times to cover up a scratch or tool mark.