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Ok. Ted Brown is about to ship me my new rear lugged LRB M25 with a Krieger heavy stainless and unitized gas piston. I've got a McMillan M3A stock ready to put it in. I've got Art's excellent DVD. I've picked up a set of the Brownell's bedding fixtures. I understand this is going to be alot more difficult than the average bolt gun, but I think I'm up for it...although I'm considering getting a cheap Boyd's walnut stock to practice on in case I glue the action in on the first try.

I've more recently being hearing about torque screw bedding, but I haven't found any pictures or descriptions of how this is done. I'm assuming it's drilling and tapping the bottom of the rear lug and then pillar bedding under the lug. I'm scratching my head a little because looking at the inlet in the stock (I haven't inletted the stock for the rear lug yet) I'm not sure where the screw would go without running into the trigger group.

Can anyone give me more illumination on how torque screw bedding works and what is required? Thanks in advance.

Cameron
 

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Thats what it is, but its not going to make a dramatic difference over a good bedding job.

I would just grab some Bisonite and go to town. Dont fret too much about bedding. Just be careful and take your time.

That doesn't answer your question does it? Its essentially what you just said it is. You'll have to drill a hole down through to behind the where the trigger plate mates with the stock and run a screw (and pillar if you want to get fancy) up there. Thats essentially what it is. Id leave your receiver alone and just bed it. Bisonite will last a long time if thats what you use (recommended).

With the rear lug bedded in good and tight, the receiver isn't going anywhere...
 

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You will have a better idea when you get the receiver. There should be one pillar with a head and one torque screw. The lug is already threaded for the torque screw. The head of the pillar sits flush with the area of the stock above the trigger group. I'll try and take a picture for you give me a few minutes. The head on the pillar is what gets glued and the different diameters that make up the head is what holds it in place in the glass.
This is an LRB double lugged action bedded in a mac m3a adj stock. The same exact action is next to the rifle.



you can visualize where the pillars and torque screws go. The head of the pillar is what takes up the torque when the screw is tightened. You need to drill out two diameter holes. These were bedded by derrick Martin from accuracy speaks quick turn around and reasonably priced
 

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You will have a better idea when you get the receiver. There should be one pillar with a head and one torque screw. The lug is already threaded for the torque screw. The head of the pillar sits flush with the area of the stock above the trigger group. I'll try and take a picture for you give me a few minutes. The head on the pillar is what gets glued and the different diameters that make up the head is what holds it in place in the glass.
Is he gonna need a glassed-in countersunk stand-off for the bedding screw? What do you recommend?

Never mind, photos show a sleeve, counterbored.
 

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Installing the rear screw

Installing the rear screw is a job that should be done by an experienced person. it is not just a case of, "Well I got it in". If you except that attitude, chances are you will not know if this modification has improved the rifle or hindered it, you will only know you have a rear screw. That's kind of messy, but not as messy as the job of installing a pillar bedded rear screw even when done by the experienced.

My advise is have done correctly the first time and spare yourself the pitfalls of the unknown.. Art
 

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No way can it be as painless as Derrick's end-product makes it look. Seems like a two-stage glass application would be required: 1) Plug the lug hole with a screw stub whatever tpi that is; plenty of release agent, glass bed the barreled action; let it dry and pull the barreled action; clean up. 2) Chalk the bottom of the stub plug and put the barreled action back into the stock; remove barreled action. The chalk mark left in the stock's recess = drill center. Drill, mark the bit to measure stock depth; make a round steel or brass stand-off in diameter of choice just tall enough to encase the lug screw's head + 1/16". Drill/mill the stand-off centered diameter = screw diameter + 1/64. Counterbore stand-off in diameter and depth of the lug screw's head. Use a drill bit to align stand-off with hole in bottom of stock; scribe it. Now it gets dicey: Drill or rout the stock for the exact depth of the stand-off or slightly over. Glass that baby in. Use small screwdriver or extractor to unscrew stub from receiver lug. When the compound hardens enough to allow contact, drop the barreled action back in and slip in the real lug screw to be sure it's gonna pick up the lug hole's threading OK. If OK, release agent on the screw, run it in, let the bottom finish drying. A couple of threads can always be taken off the screw if necessary for a firm, tight final fitting.
 

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Problems

The question is, rather to bed the action with the pillar attached or try to bed the pillar from the bottom. The big problem is going to be preventing bedding material from finding it's way between the bottom of the lug and the top surface of the pillar. If you do not bed with the pillar screwed firmly to the bottom of the lug and come in from the bottom how are you going to solve this bedding flow ???. If that is not enough, you must have a quality rec. clamp down tool or the front draw pressure will act to pull/ lift the heel off the stock, resulting in a two surface bedding job. Gheezz. art
 

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I would consider what the cactus comet(Art) has to say and take it to heart. I would not try doing this job thats why I gave it to a man that has bedded many Mcmillan stocks before. I am getting ready to send him another one this week.
 
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