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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new build fails the tilt test. Not bad, but the op rod won't travel to the front by it's self. The "Hump" in front of the handle rubs the side of the receiver just enough to hang up on. I can push it forward with my little finger. It almost seems that the finish on the parts is too "thick", my gut says to grease it up & let it run & wear in. If I try to bend it I may mess up the fit on the tab / receiver slot. Any body else have a slightly tight op rod in that area? Thanks
 

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My new build fails the tilt test. Not bad, but the op rod won't travel to the front by it's self. The "Hump" in front of the handle rubs the side of the receiver just enough to hang up on. I can push it forward with my little finger. It almost seems that the finish on the parts is too "thick", my gut says to grease it up & let it run & wear in. If I try to bend it I may mess up the fit on the tab / receiver slot. Any body else have a slightly tight op rod in that area? Thanks
Your fine I wouldn't worry, just keep running it as it is or put a little finger pressure on it dry where there ruff spot is too help burnish the finish down.
 

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Do not bend the oprod.
Do not.
If you know exactly where the oprod is rubbing just stone it down some, oprod, not receiver.
Or send it back to the builder and ask for a better fitting oprod.
If you run it that way it will fit itself, but you'll have bare metal on the receiver and oprod, and between the two, I'd rather have the wear on the oprod. It's the cheaper of the two.
 

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Slow powder will knock the guide and oprod out of alignment, but op is implying this is a new build so I'd rule that out, and not to derail the thread, he's not asking about powder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To be more clear the interference is a slight drag on the side of the receiver in front of the rear sight. Op rod to piston alignment is perfect. Thanks
 
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Gotcha, maybe it's my years as a horseshoer pounding on metal but I think I would bend the oprod some, or if your not comfortable doing that sell it with full disclosure and buy another, or send it to a company who could tweak it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a Winchester op rod that has been re-tabbed by CMW but it needs to be fitted also, I think I want to get the one on the rifle running 1st. Keep yall posted!
 

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Take the bolt out and try it with just the operating rod in place. If it passes the test, then the bolt is dragging on the safety bridge or rubbing the bolt stop, maybe?

The operating rod could also be hanging on the dismount notch.

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take the bolt out and try it with just the operating rod in place. If it passes the test, then the bolt is dragging on the safety bridge or rubbing the bolt stop, maybe?

The operating rod could also be hanging on the dismount notch.

Tony.
Tony I tried to run a .005" feeler between the receiver & the op rod & it wouldn't go. The interference is with the notch & tab almost inline to maybe .25" forward from there, not much. This weekend I'm gonna remove it & check it a little closer. It & the bolt need to be re finished anyway so if I have to stone the backside of the op rod to get a little more clearance then no big deal.
 
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