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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have not the been on the forum for awhile. Bought a Socom 16 for my first M1A. I got it out of the safe to make sure it is ready for a range trip and noticed that the safety works as advertised but is very stiff to push the safety into the off or ready to fire position. Is this normal for a semi-new rifle? Will it loosen over time after more use? I did pull the trigger group out and still worked the same just as stiff as it is when installed. Any info or remedies would be great. Thank you!



P.S. Bought a Scout Squad on Thursday the 15th.Will post pics of both the Socom 16 and The Scout Squad as soon as the Scout Squad gets out of the 10 day debriefing here in so.cal.
 

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Put a few drops of CLP behind the safety, where it rubs against the trigger housing and on the bottom, where it contacts the spring. Check to make sure it isn't rubbing on the trigger guard.
 

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Stiff when new is normal. It will loosen up with use over time and you will not need to use your thumb to disengage it. By design it should always be a positive engagement and disengagement safety lever. Enjoy!
 

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I am still using the SAI trigger group that came in the SOCOM. Its trigger is smoothing out too. I anticipated unsatisfactory performance from the SAI TG and have two GI trigger groups as back-ups for my rifles, but so far the SAI TG has not disappointed me or given me any problems. I have not burnished, polished, or tweaked any parts, just operated it dry for a while to help mate some parts, then used 3 in 1 oil, and finally, plastilube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just out of curiosity, are your trigger parts USGI or commercial?
I am sure the trigger group in my Socom and my Scout Squad are the stock triggers that Springfield Armory uses. Unless Springfield armory still has USGI parts. Both of my M1A's are fairly new the Scout is 3 years old and the Socom I believe is about 2 years old.The previous owners did not change anything. By the way thank for the information on the safety. I pretty much did what what was suggested on lubricating the Safety before posting my question. I felt a nice sense of relief after reading your responses that it is nothing out of the ordinary. I am going to order the Sadlak spring guide rod for Scout this week I already put one in the Socom. There is a very noticable difference. Old Sarge has helped me with a lot of good info on the M1A.
 
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THe area it needs to smooth out is not accessible without disassembling the trigger group. The safety is basically a hook, that swings down and latches around a boss that is sticking out the left side of the hammer. This is all going on between the hammer and the wall of the trigger housing, so you cannot see it.

So if you don't want to disassemble the entire trigger group, I'd dump lube down between the hammer and the TG wall.

If you do disassemble, you can likely see how the two interact, and you'll see the surfaces that could be polished up a bit.

Also note that, unlike the AR, the safety is a redundant design. It does not only block the trigger, but it also hooks the hammer, and actually pulls the hammer back slightly to take load off the sear surfaces. So part of the high force is the effort to pull the hammer back slightly against the hammer spring. Net, even polished, it will never be the easy feel that you get from an AR that only has a detent to overcome. In this case, the detent is the hammer itself.
 

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Also note that, unlike the AR, the safety is a redundant design. It does not only block the trigger, but it also hooks the hammer, and actually pulls the hammer back slightly to take load off the sear surfaces.
I was shaking my head when a forum member posted that he cut the part that blocks the hammer off his safety so he could engage it without the hammer being cocked first. He did post the caveat that he was not a qualified gunsmith and doing this could result in death or worse.

Good gosh... don't modify the safety that way!
 

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I am going to order the Sadlak spring guide rod for Scout this week I already put one in the Socom. There is a very noticable difference.

Really?

I've been on the fence about these.
 

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I was shaking my head when a forum member posted that he cut the part that blocks the hammer off his safety so he could engage it without the hammer being cocked first. He did post the caveat that he was not a qualified gunsmith and doing this could result in death or worse.

Good gosh... don't modify the safety that way!

Sure, he knows about that foolish (IMO) modification, but those around him or the next owner may not. Learn to live with how the Garand or M14 trigger group works. For "safety"s sake. DI5
 

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Really?

I've been on the fence about these.
If you take the bolt out of your rifle and cycle the action, you'll feel how terrible the issued op-rod spring guide feels.

Meaning it won't feel terrible at all.

Try it.

I'm sure there is a difference when the op-rod is flying back at barrel pressure speeds, but anyone who can feel the difference just pulling it back has the hands of a brain surgeon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Really?

I've been on the fence about these.
If you decide to buy one. You will notice a smoother feel when you pull the bolt back and it goes into battery. The spring does not stack. I have not shot mine enough yet. But several people say it increases accuracy and supposed to increase reliability. Watch a couple of videos on it if you haven't already done that.
 
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