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Discussion Starter #1
I disassembled my rifle a couple weeks back and I had a very hard time getting the FH and the Gas Cylinder off. I had to use a wooden block and a hammer to get them off.

It looks like I'm finally going to have the time this week to remove the op rod guide and get it installed into my Sage chassis.

The question I have is, how do I go about getting the FH and Gas Cylinder back on? I did a quick reassembly the same day I disassembled it, but I couldn't get them to fit, the GC became very tight 1/2" back from the hole. I don't want to have to use a hammer to put them back on.

Stephen
 

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Having to use a plastic tipped hammer with light taps is good. Loose fitting parts will rattle around on a barrel while the bullet passes through the barrel, which is bad.

What you can do to get the gas cylinder on is place the gas lock on the gas cylinder but only the lower portion that the gas plug slides into. Use your gas plug to keep the lock on there. The upper portion of the lock should hang out at 90 degrees or 180 degrees from the barrel. Now you can hammer on the gas plug without damaging anything.

Look at this video and fast forward to 16:28 to see what I'm talking about. In the video, I had hammered the gas cylinder in place a few times which loosened up the gas cylinder fit so I was able to slide the gas cylinder on by hand after a while but I still had the gas plug on while I was filming.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBaeIzrQWAA[/ame]

For the flash suppressor, just tap it lightly and tighten the castle nut. Tap again and repeat until it's fully seated.

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So assemble the entire gas system and tap it on and off a few times?

When I first disassembled it I I checked the timing on the lock to see how far off it was and it was very loose at 5 o'clock and went to dead tight at 6 o'clock.

Stephen
 

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Only tap it on once with it partly assembled. You don't want it to loosen. I only specified that it loosened because if you go to the time stamp, I didn't have to use a hammer because it had already loosened up after multiple re-installations. I was able to just use my hands. I had shot that video over two different filming sessions and after talking to Art about one of my other videos, he recommended I do the partial assembly of the gas cylinder to illustrate the proper way to hammer on a gas cylinder assembly without damaging it which is by partially installing the lock and plug and hammering on the plug.

Earlier in the video, I used the plastic side of my hammer to tap on the face of the gas cylinder without the other components installed. I didn't mention or explain that I use the plastic portion, but if someone's not paying attention, they may use the metal side of a hammer to do it which is very bad. I did it so quickly, people might not notice.


After I got the operating rod guide aligned and glued, I re-peened the splines so that I had to use a hammer again for the final installation.

Did I clear things up or muddy them up for you?

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No I think that does clear up my misunderstanding, I was under the impression that I should be able to install it by hand.

I should have enough time this week to get the guide block off and hopefully get my rifle assembled this week so if I have any issues I'll let you know.

Stephen
 

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Just to sum up...

Being able to install it by hand and not being able to wiggle it too much, or at all, is okay.

Being able to install it by hand and it rattles around when installed is bad.

Having to use "light taps" with a small hammer to install it is preferred.

Having to use a 2 pound sledge to force it on is very bad!

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Tony the gas system went fairly smoothly.

Since I have to "Tap" the FH on how do I know when it's on all the way?

I tried taking some pictures but its hard to see, the top of the castle nut is at the flare and it looks like it can move down a little more but I'm not sure if this is the right position.




 

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I just tap and tighten and repeat until I can't tighten the castle nut by hand. Then I use the castle nut pliers to tighten to the next slot under the set screw and tighten the set screw.

If you tap and it's not moving and the castle nut is tightened as much as it can go, then you're probably there.

Tony.
 
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