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If your M1A is not grouping as well as you feel it should, here is a easy mod to make an improvement... .

This easy mod helps bring the receive into a better vertical alignment with the stock..

Remove the upper assemble. lock the stock up in a padded vise, jocky it around until the heel is level, place the level across the first inch forward of the rec's back end, make certain the level is 90 degrees. Also, level the stock from butt to front end.. This takes some doing but not real difficult..

Now place the level across the top of the stock ferule, just on the metal, don't engage the wood.. These two points should be very close to the same.. If not, remove the ferrule and file down the wood tenon until the ferrule can be re= positioned to a matching level with the heel, than epoxy in that position..

Sometimes wood has to be filed off other points of the top contact surfaces in between these two points. Do this a little at a time, you don't want a high spot on either side tilting the rec. off the two points all- ready mentioned..

This mod will help position the lip of the Frontband into proper position with the Stock ferrule, "Centered""... Have fun and don't forget D Day... Art
 

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Hey Art, couple of basic questions for you. I went and checked a stock I was working on and the ferrule is out of alignment.

How do you go about removing pin punch and half moon crimped ferrules easily without damaging them???

And could you provide more detail about how to shape the ferrule area??? It's obvious I need to remove material from the top of one side, but how to shape to insure there is not excessive slop??? Seems there may be a void since the ferrule will now be lowered on one side only. Do I just fill this with epoxy or Superglue gel???

Anyway, thanks for the mod directions. Worth a try and I'll see if it tightens up my groups and report back.
 

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Ferrule removal,..

Hello Doc,...

The crimped ferrules are difficult to remove without some stock damage. I drill through from inside to a position opposite the crimp. than using a small punch i tap as much of the crimp out as possible. Than it becomes a pry it off with a screw driver..

Shape the wood tenon, the flange like part of the wood the ferrule slides over with a file, don't worry about removing too much wood , but don't get heavy handed either, file it following the original contour until the ferrule slips on very easy,, even loose is OK, apply the epoxy to the tenon and inside the ferrule. Remove as much as possible from the bottom of the ferule and the matching surface of the tenon. You do not want a build up of epoxy advancing the ferrule forward, too much epoxy in this are will do that.. Don't scrimp on the epoxy, the over load will be forced out , too much is better than to little.. Clean all surfaces with acetone before applying the epoxy..

Slide the ferrule on the tenon, firmly, remove as much of the access epoxy as possible. Now put the stock back into the vise and level it. Adjust the ferrule by hand to be consistence with the heel area you used the level on.. Put a couple of strips of masking tape across the front of the ferule pushing it back towards the stock, Check with level, keep doing this until you have a desired position. Then leave it alone for 12 hours.. If it fails heat the ferrule and repeat..

Take your time, maybe a practice run on an old stock is in order. You can do this with a bit of practice...

Best regards,,,, Art
 
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