Third Gen. Springfield Scope Mount Fix
It is no secret that the Third Springfield generation Scope Mount has some troubles. As the mount is Hammered by the recoil of it tends to pound loose in the upright groove designed into the left hand vertical surface of the reciever. The forward screw is now loosens and the zero of the rifle changes. It can never be removed and reinstalled in the same location because the groove to mount placement is always changing.
Here is a cure and it really works well. The rear of the mount is attached to a Blank that replaces the stripper clip. The rear of the mount also has a movable dowel that butts up against this Blank. Have the Blank machined so that the dowel now goes INSIDE the Stripper Clip Blank. This makes the rear Mounting of the Third Gen. responsible for the forward/rear movement of the whole thing. The UPRIGHT raised portion of the Forward mount is then filed off flat and only the horizontal part of the mount is used. The mount can now be removed and installed time after time and retain Zero. I have experimented with removal and installation many times and am amazed how well the mount installs in exactly the same location. If you can't find a cure to your Third Gen. Scope Mount troubles THIS IS IT ! ...............SP/4 Twiggy
Here is a cure and it really works well. The rear of the mount is attached to a Blank that replaces the stripper clip. The rear of the mount also has a movable dowel that butts up against this Blank. Have the Blank machined so that the dowel now goes INSIDE the Stripper Clip Blank. This makes the rear Mounting of the Third Gen. responsible for the forward/rear movement of the whole thing. The UPRIGHT raised portion of the Forward mount is then filed off flat and only the horizontal part of the mount is used. The mount can now be removed and installed time after time and retain Zero. I have experimented with removal and installation many times and am amazed how well the mount installs in exactly the same location. If you can't find a cure to your Third Gen. Scope Mount troubles THIS IS IT ! ...............SP/4 Twiggy
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Good idea and info if ya can get a few pics to us Twiggy ...
Like Hawk said ... Climb aboard when ya feel comfortable ... Theres always room for more around the fireside so pull up an ammo crate when ya can ...
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Thanks for your help thus far on this mount matter ... :wink:
Six
Like Hawk said ... Climb aboard when ya feel comfortable ... Theres always room for more around the fireside so pull up an ammo crate when ya can ...
Thanks for your help thus far on this mount matter ... :wink:
Six
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I had too dig out my 3rd gen mount too have a look,I think Twiggy is saying is that there is a slight radious on the spacer that buts up against the threaded block(thats the part that replaces the spriper clip guide)these two parts touch and then 3/4 jam nut locks it down. Now if a the same radious is machined(you could use a drill press/vise/large bit) into the mouths edge of new guide/block that matches the mounts spacer(think of a hip in the socket) this inturn will eliminate the often peened vertical rail( steal to steal VRS. steal to aluminium) and thus it can be removed salvaging the mount and making it more stable at the same time as there will be more area to support
I gave it 10sec. and it made perfict sense,I wish I thought of it
,NO waite Springfield Armory and there brain trust 8O should have and there mount would have a better reputation.
I gave it 10sec. and it made perfict sense,I wish I thought of it
,NO waite Springfield Armory and there brain trust 8O should have and there mount would have a better reputation.I still use my 3rd gen. Springfield mount. On my mount the part that butts against the blank where the stripper guide is beveled about 30 degrees or so. If i mill any more off it, it probably will not make contact. When I install the mount I can not use the directions that came with the mount. If I tighten the front screw, the rear screw will not thread. It has always been that way, even before the vertical slot got all boogered up. I back the from screw out 2 turns & then start the rear screw. I tighten the rear screw down to 1/2 turn before it is snug by hand, tighten the front with large screwdriver, then the rear one.
The most troubling thing to me is after the front has been tightened, the rear part that makes contact with guide blank almost runs out of thread, there is just enough left to tighten lock nut. Also, the rear screw is hard to tighten after the front is tight.
I don't believe the receiver is out of spec, I think it is the mount. If anyone else that uses this mount, I would like to know if theirs lines up & how much of the large lock screw is left showing after making contact with rear dovetailed base. Thanks, Jack Orr(fng)
The most troubling thing to me is after the front has been tightened, the rear part that makes contact with guide blank almost runs out of thread, there is just enough left to tighten lock nut. Also, the rear screw is hard to tighten after the front is tight.
I don't believe the receiver is out of spec, I think it is the mount. If anyone else that uses this mount, I would like to know if theirs lines up & how much of the large lock screw is left showing after making contact with rear dovetailed base. Thanks, Jack Orr(fng)
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O.K. all here`s what I did too mine, #1 I used a dremel tool to remove the up/down rail and polished it too make it smooth and not scratch the recever #2 went too Ace hardware and picked up grade 8 hex bolt that threaded into the mount with jamnut 1.75+tx #3 went too machine shop had man there machine big hole through bolt lenth wise on lyth #4 ran modified bolt into mount with jam nut + 1 thread showing above jamnut and marked new bolt while mounted on rifle #5 old man machinest lops off at mark and notched one end for big screw driver, pitches knurled end and hands me the new threadded end #6 ask Grizzeld Old Gray Bearded machinest what do I owe him and he say `$3.00 dollors`I say here`s $5.00 and have a nice day!! thank you very much` #6 I thread in new machined bolt into mount with 3/4 jam nut use the screw driver to turn it so it touches the block and dog down jam nut snuggly,turn in the 2 big knurled thumb screws scope remounted. At this point all is going as planned too good Me and Old Gray Beard chew the fat some then I see the time DDAAAAMMMM it 5.00pm and no time test it out! tomarrow I will find out. I used this set up on a Springfield M1A with one issue it peened the vertical rail, this modifacation was done so I could use it on my Armscorp M-14 NM Springfield 2nd gen scope this set up feels very solid new again I will say so! Your results may very,best of Luck
Now all I got to do is find a grizzled old gray beard besides me that has a machine shop :lol: . I think I have all the tools I need at my son-in-laws garage. A picture of finished product would help, if not I think I can wing it.
Do you believe it nessisarry to grind down vertical notch on receiver? I will skip that part if possable, been thinking of an Armscorp mount. From the pics I've seen, they ride nice & low and have never heard a complaint about them.
Thanks for info, Jack
Do you believe it nessisarry to grind down vertical notch on receiver? I will skip that part if possable, been thinking of an Armscorp mount. From the pics I've seen, they ride nice & low and have never heard a complaint about them.
Thanks for info, Jack
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Jack I removed the vertical rail on the scope mount NOT THE RECEVER,Springfields mount is made of aluminium and is solf (this is the reason they peen themselfs out of shape) there is still plenty of bareing area with the 2 screws and the horizontal ridge. I wish I had a digital camara this would have been easier too do. I tried to be very detailed in discription of the work done/completed for this reason hope this clears up the muddied discreption
I got it now, for some reason I was thinking the mount had grove instead of notch. I have no problem grinding the mount, this should also cure the rear bolt not threading right when front bolt is tight. I've been using a small steel washer in between the dovetail blank & lock down bolt for about a year. It just does'nt seem like much surface contact the wat the end is beveled on end of lock bolt. I tried different size washers untill I found one that made contact without pushing lock bolt out too far. Your idea is a darn good one. I'll get around to making one next time I visit the kids. Most of my tools are in their garage. They get returned about as fast as the money I give/lend them :wink: .
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