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26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tell me if you can understand this!

Work up/how to for:

Anti-shortwave ceramic coating.
Greatly reduced visible signature under Gen2+(or better) shortwave/night vision conditions.

It's also bombproof. A dremel at 5000rpm +wire wheel doesn't take it off at all, after final curing.

Background info:
I came up with this idea after reading hyperstealth.com/baseline in its entirety. So there is a method to this madness. Still, I recommend you do the same and read it. Full comprehension of the study will leave you with a real understanding of how camouflage and night vision actually work.

The coating this will produce is more than effective(it gives off the same shortwave signature as background noise. This was tested with gen3+ AVGs), however it is thicker and heavier than paint. it also applies like mud, so keep that in mind. however, it is easy "enough" to sand/work with after drying. You can use this coating on almost any fixed surface.. You can also follow this process using just the spray cans to throw a similar finish on just about anything. Obviously you will not receive the benefits of the ceramic coating should you chose to do this.


Rubbing alcohol.

Low-High grit Sand paper.
I sanded down to 600.

Multi-surface spray primer.

Martha Stewart ceramic crackle.

Lots of Purple Aqua Net.
I used 3 cans.

Ultra flat Camo paint.
As many colors as you want your coating.

Krylon 1311 Matte clear spray finish.


1. Prep your surface. Sand with low grit paper and degrease, using 70%+ alcohol.

2. Spray with primer.(I also used several coats of different stone finishes in addition).

3. Impregnate the ceramic mud with aquanet, lots and lots of it. At least half a bottle, the more the better. Spray it directly it into the jar.

4. Mix/Stir The mud. The jar should be almost full, so make sure you get an even consistency and no loose aquanet is present.

5. Apply mud; Spray with light coats of aquanet every 15minutes until ceramic dries. You will build up the full coat in multiple layers to fill in the crackling effect.
To achieve different colors and textures I added different colors of paint directly into the mud, for each different layer.

6. Sand it down(More than the picture shows). Apply aquanet. Build more layers of mud.

After building up my layers(I did four layers, four different colors), I threw more stone finish and a aquanet + glaze mixture on top.
I wanted some stone texture and to try thickening the aquanet. This is not necessary. Mine looked like this fully coated(See picture below).

7. Sand / Paint / Layer mud until you like your texture / finish. Spray camo paint and aquanet, together, anywhere you'd like to add color. Get your creativity on(Just add aquanet)!
I sanded down to 320 grit at this point, when satisfied you're ready to put your aquamatte finish on.

8. Dual Spray(at the same time, at the same place) Krylon matte finish and aquanet(Aquamatte).
Do ultra-light coats, over several days. Let completely dry.
Repeat until out of krylon finish. I used a whole can of aquanet in conjunction with the whole can of krylon 1311 matte.

9. Let fully cure several days after you're done spraying.
I left mine out in the sun during the day, for about 4 days.

10. Lightly sand with high grit(600-1000) sand paper to remove sheen.



Cranky Old Vietnam Vet
10,663 Posts
Nice work!

And that's a heck of a Cigar Store too!


CAVman in WYoming

26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice setups! How did you go about building up that cheekrest?
Started with mounting my optic/finding my eyebox, then built up egg crate foam and 200mph tape(under pressure), layer by layer. While building up each layer, l used spray polymer+tape to shape it. Topped the thing off with a piece of saddle leather, self adhesive camo tape. After i decided it was good to go, I drenched it with more spray poly(to freeze the camo wrap).
Final step was a custom ceramic coating & paint.

its pretty flipping solid and non permanent.

823 Posts
A lot of work but very cool
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