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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well ... They say ya learn something new every day and although I have been questioned by many that think I am some kind of M1A Guru I can assure you that I am not by no means .....

Anyhow I was foolin' around with my NM M1A that I recently acquired and I went to change out the handguard with another USGI that I had layin here .....

Could'nt get the front to slip in to the underside of the front ferrule to save my life and with as much as I am constantly changing these out for picture taking purposes (and never experiencing any problems before) with my Devine M1A (which by the way is not a NM) I would have thought that this one would "slip right in" as well ... NO DICE!

From what I could observe it appears that with the unitized gas system and all up front on the NM that the ferrule "crimping" in this area which holds the handguard in place was smaller and tighter than the normal rack grade. Ended up trimming the handguard some and eventually got it to seat properly.

Can any of you NM owners out there advise whether you have experienced this or not and is this in fact "the norm" on all national matches?

Thanks,

Six
 

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Six, my Springfield is just the same. Unitized gas system that needs some trimming to get the handguard in. If ya ask me it's a plus as the handguard does fit tighter than normal. Less movement and less rattle. :D
 

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Got a couple of them like that. I have mixed feelings about it, but it must serve a purpose.

Regards

Ox
 

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less rattle and tighter fit won't help accuracy any if you ask me. the thing you want with the handguard is for it not to touch the stock. I always grind or sand the bottom edge of it so they don't touch and leave an even 1\8 inch gap end to end. if you think about it when you are firing in a standing position and not using the sling then you are not pulling down on the stock and the handguard may touch it. in the prone position slung up tight you are or should be putting a lot of downward pressure on the stock and the handguard usualy won't rub. the difference has the potential to make your zero change from one position to the other. that is why on a properly bedded stock the forarm pressure is built in and the handguard doesn't touch. It realy helps consistancy. I usualy do bend the ears on the ferrule though so the hand guard doesn't rattle. some people don't like things that seem loose no matter how much you try to explain.
 

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Hiya Six:

All of the unitized gas cylinders that I have are turned in on the front band that is attached to the gas cylinder itself.

I'm not exactly sure why it needs to be like that aside from keeping the handguard in tight, and no rattling, but that is how its shown in the Duff and Kuhnhausen books...

So, it beats me... as to why!

Aloha,

Tom O.
 

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SixTGunr said:
[snip] ....Could'nt get the front to slip in to the underside of the front ferrule to save my life ... [snip] ... Ended up trimming the handguard some and eventually got it to seat properly.
Six
Mine is bedded in (i.e.- glued with Acraglas or whatever) for absolutely zero movement. If this had been glued/bedded at one time, there could be enough residue to keep the new one from seating. Just a thought, since some were built this way. This one would be a real major production to swap out ....

-- cw
 

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From all I've read and heard it's not rattle but vibration that will destroy accuracy. That is the reason to epoxy or glue the hand guards in place.
 

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sixty:
the reason for your handguard not fitting is because when you modify the front band by heatingleftright tangs to anneal and bending inward on tangs. this allows the handguard to be moved upward in and away from top edge of the stock. this prevents any rubbing movement between the stock and upper handguard assy and thusly any transfer of harmonics from any of these parts throwing off your shooting. when you match condition the gas cylinder heating and bending the tangs is performed to raise the handguard off and away from the stock because you reduce the surface area of the tangs you also must trim the fwd edge of the handguard to get it to fit. if you get a rifle that has not been modified you will notice alot of slop at the fwd edge of the handguard for and aft also.
amu armoers all had their own quirks about how to tweak a gun but they all agreed that harmonics screws up your day each individual came up with their own ideas of tweking such as the use of rtv sealant under aft are of guard and setting the fwd edge in sealant to prevent absolutely any movement or float. trimming off lower handguard surface to give .010 clearance was another absolutely proven fix. this was given to me by non other than the master gene barnett in our frequent correspondance. jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Jeff .....

Appreciate the detailed description there and it certainly makes sense to me.

Glad to see ya posting and hope that all is going well for you.

Miss ya round here Brother ... :wink:

Six
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was told by Art Lupino. that its done too reduce barrel harmonics and weight on the barrel under recoil to the tune on 14lbs compression on the barrel, when this is done it keeps the handguard from turning into a slinky inparting a accuracy robbing vibration into the barrel i.e.tunning fork hope this explaines this issue Phil McGrath

P.s. never grab/hold a N.M.m14/m1a buy the handguard for the above reason
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds like a winner to me Phil .....

Do make sense when ya think of it that way ... :wink:

"Welcome Aboard" ... :D

Six
 
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