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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have been wanting to do some modifications to my M1A rifles, so since the sunset of the Ban 8) I am starting the process.

First, the flash hider on my Loaded is going to get replaced with a bayo lugged version from Fulton and the gas cylinder system is going to get shimmed. In Duff's book, he mentions something about using high temperature, steel impregnated epoxy to ensure the zero doesn't change when disassmbling. What type of epoxy is this and what is the procedure for doing it this way? Also, if the gas cylinder is loose, how do you peen the splines? Can this also be done for the flash hider if necessary?

The Scout Squad will get the Loaded's old flash hider and and the gas system shimmed. Where would I get the feeler gauges for this process at? Hardware, automotive store? I am also considering a Sage stock for the scout squad, does anybody know if the pistol grip on this is replaceable?

I thank everyone in advance for any advice, knowledge or input they have.

Later Jeff B
 

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The gas cylinder can be tightened either by knurling or by using a center punch and LIGHT hammer with a 2x4 block of wood for support under the barrel. You will need the block of wood or nylon hammer to tap cylinder back on. Do this after shimming, it a beach removing gas assembly after you just got her nice and tight. I make rows of 3 from muzzle side to breech side. The F.S. is the easy part, for me. Just use a flat tip punch 3/16th's works good to SLIGHTLY roll over the corners of the top spline only. Use your block of wood under the barrel again for this. The steel epoxy I believe you are referring to is Brownell's steel bedding compound. If you want to do it your self read the Intel section. For a very professional job get a hold of our own Warbird, or a local Armorer. Gunsmith does not = Armorer! Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input guys, I will let you know how the whole thing turns out whichever way I go.

Later, Jeff B
 
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