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Absolutely. My Scout Squad will positively neutralize any threat outside of my house. For an infiltrator inside my house, I'll reach for my M(ini)1A first... a Ruger Mini-14 Tactical in 7.62x35. Horses for courses (when and if possible).
 

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I have put some thought into building a do-it-all rifle as well. I will share what I have learned, but I can't promise it will be helpful.
  • I have not found a good solution for mounting an optic and keeping the irons available as an immediate backup. You have to raise the optic significantly to keep the irons available. I settled on mounting the optic where I wanted it and having a (relatively) quick detach system if I needed to go back to the irons. A good modern optic is rugged and reliable, and can take a lot of abuse. While I still want backup irons on my rifle, I think a lot of shooters / preppers overestimate the need for them. Of course, if you are going to rely on your optic, you have to shell out for a good one.
    • ******* Yankee's mount probably offers the best compromise. I haven't used it personally. If you are determined to have both sighting systems available, I would look into it.
    • If you can't live without immediately available irons, look into the plastic ones that mount at an offset position on your rails. They should be fine as an emergency backup until you can remove the optic and go back to the rifle's irons.
  • I like the Blackfeather Chassis a lot and I think it's the best modern chassis for the M14 unless you are doing a precision rifle build. I don't have one due to cost and availability, but it's on my wish list.
  • The Ultimak Rail is the best scout handguard option, but it's still heavier than a receiver mount for an optic. If you want to put an LPVO on, you are going to need a receiver mount anyway. I would suggest replacing the Ultimak with a standard fiberglass handguard. Use the MLok capability of your chassis to attach your other accessories.
In case you are interested, I went with an E2 stock and a Treeline M14 E2 hardware replacement kit. My EoTech is on an ARMS 18 mount. I can get an ok cheek weld without a riser like this. I want to go to an LPVO, which I expect will be lower and give me a better cheek weld.
 

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After a few decades of trying, I have come to the conclusion, which many told me when I started looking, no such animal. And as posted earlier, you end up with a tool that is equally poor in all categories.
You just need more rifles with the available variations. Grab the one you " need " at the moment to do the job at hand in the best way possible.

Furniture Picture frame Couch Air gun Wood
 

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I have been through multiple configurations of the M14 throughout the years. I have never been able to fully settle or be satisfied with a set up that fills a "do-all" role. I am working on a project for a .308 rifle for the proverbial "SHTF" scenario that creates great discussion. I love the M14 platform and wanted to use my SOCOM 16 to fulfill that role but, I have had some set backs that I hoped you may be able to help with.
  • I wanted magnified optics (preferably a LPVO of some sort) but, while trying to overcome the cheek weld issue, I have found that I have often had to choose between the optic or the iron sights. I would want the irons to maintain a back up sight role while focusing on optics. I have a CASM GENII mount I was trying to utilize as I liked how lightweight it is while ignoring the side mounting used by others. Although it's peep sight is very limiting, it at least had the "back up" aspect covered. By raising the stock to optics level, the iron sights become unusable without adjustment. How have you overcome this for your rifles?
  • Although there are other chassis systems out there that might alleviate this issue, they all seem to be relatively heavy. As of now I have utilized the Delta 14 chassis as a way to modernize the platform without increasing weight. However, the issue of sight alignment is still not solved. Also, because the chassis is 2 pieces (chassis + buttstock assembly), there is some flex behind the receiver where the connection point is. This has me concerned for long term durability as the stock and chassis are held together by a single screw. The factory stock at least has full rigidity while remaining relatively light weight. Unfortunately it does not have the MLOK mounting options or weight reduction aspect of the Delta 14. What compromises have you found between weight, durability and functionality in your hunt for a great stock/chassis system?

    I have been through this ride a few times now and am still having a hard time settling! I have a Sig Sauer 716i that is fully set up for the same role but, I wanted to prove to myself that I could get the same ease of use and function from the M14 and not feel it necessary to settle for a soul-less AR-10 just because of "things" Any help would be appreciated!

    Here is the current set up:
    View attachment 454798
    SA M1A SOCOM 16
    Delta 14 Chassis
    Mesa Tactical LEO Telescoping Stock Adapter (Mossberg 500)
    Magpul CTR w/ 0.75" Riser
    Hogue Overmolded AR-15 Grip
    Magpul MVG
    Ultimak M8 Rail
    Trijicon MRO
    Olight Odin Mini

    I removed the CASM mount once I couldn't settle on proper cheek weld at least in this configuration. Even with the .75" riser it wasn't even close to cutting it. But, I am open to ideas! Even a scout scope? The Ultimak M8 rail is a game changer I will admit that.
    Thanks for your help,
    MP
If you're interested I have a Mesa Tactical High Tube Adaptor from my delta14 setup. I ended up goin to a blackfeather setup. It will negate the need for a comb riser and you'll be able to use the casm again. Check out my socom thread, I literally tried every stupid thing a guy could.
 

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After a few decades of trying, I have come to the conclusion, which many told me when I started looking, no such animal. And as posted earlier, you end up with a tool that is equally poor in all categories.
You just need more rifles with the available variations. Grab the one you " need " at the moment to do the job at hand in the best way possible.

View attachment 454896
Art, this picture will never get old. However, on behalf of the rest of the forum, I would like to request some different angles. Some of the gals in the 2nd and 3rd row are hard to see in detail.

Also, I agree with Art, a Do-All configuration that performs well, probably doesn't exist. But that is a good thing. It allows me to tell my wife why I need to own multiple rifles.
 

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I do enjoy these threads, simply seeing what each person feels a "do all" setup really accentuates there's no right answer per se.
Completely agree. For me, tinkering around with configurations is just as fun as going to the range to then test them out. Seeing what others are doing is interesting, and often inspires me to keep fiddling with different setups and systems. Cheers, everyone!
 

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455172
455173

As food for thought, this isn’t a do-all configuration, but my SHTF configuration.
I find the pistol grip best for versatility. Torch on one side. SEI vortex flash hider. Cheek weld perfect for me with casm. I have laser zeroed to 25 years for CQB, scope zeroed 25/200, and I can go from scope to red dot zeroed to 100 by only slightly lowering my shoulders. I find the red dot up top to be the fastest way to go from scope to dot. Plus, much faster to aim red dot than irons. For me, this is the most versatile setup for an end of days scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Well, spill the beans, what ya changing?
Well for now, I am back in the SA factory stock but keeping the ultimak M8 installed. I am bouncing between the idea of a scout scope as opposed to the trijicon MRO for a more purposeful set up. The cheek riser situation may not be necessary with the ultimak but I will report back on that. If worse comes to worse, I might pop back into a cheek rest configuration and throw the CASM mount back on. I realized that I was just forcing my M1A to be the same as my AR-10 and that just wasn't cutting it for me as the AR-10 is just superior for fixing the issues I was experiencing. I am going to go back to the reason that makes the M1A a great battle rifle and try to rely on it's strengths rather than trying to make it something it isn't. Haha I know, about face. But this thread really gave me some good ideas. I'll throw a picture in the thread of the Sig 716i for fun and an update on the M1A as well. The sling is another situation of uncertainty. I tried to utilize the Sadlak front rail as a way to use a foregrip. I tried the Fab Defense RSG because it offers a pic rail attachment I thought I could utilize as a sling attachment point while also having the foregrip as a nice option. It worked kind of but not in a way that I liked so I scrapped that idea. Haha it never ends. But I love this process as much as I hate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
View attachment 455172 View attachment 455173
As food for thought, this isn’t a do-all configuration, but my SHTF configuration.
I find the pistol grip best for versatility. Torch on one side. SEI vortex flash hider. Cheek weld perfect for me with casm. I have laser zeroed to 25 years for CQB, scope zeroed 25/200, and I can go from scope to red dot zeroed to 100 by only slightly lowering my shoulders. I find the red dot up top to be the fastest way to go from scope to dot. Plus, much faster to aim red dot than irons. For me, this is the most versatile setup for an end of days scenario.
This is a really impressive set up. Very cool! Thanks for sharing it. The issue I was having was the cheek rest height. How do you overcome that especially when utilizing the red dot?
 

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Using glass, it’s perfect with .75 riser. The red dot is on there for more close quarters stuff and not my primary optic and works fine like I said if I simply drop my shoulders a bit.

Works even better with hogue stock and Bradley cheek riser (see picture), but like I said, I prefer pistol grip in SHTF scenario. CASM lines up well for me with .75 riser with low rings.

The issue you’re having is that the cheek weld is too low for you to use the optic? I agree with above posts, then, about the Mesa tactical high tube mount rather than the standard you likely got from delta 14. That should buy you an inch.

455183
 

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Well for now, I am back in the SA factory stock but keeping the ultimak M8 installed. I am bouncing between the idea of a scout scope as opposed to the trijicon MRO for a more purposeful set up. The cheek riser situation may not be necessary with the ultimak but I will report back on that. If worse comes to worse, I might pop back into a cheek rest configuration and throw the CASM mount back on. I realized that I was just forcing my M1A to be the same as my AR-10 and that just wasn't cutting it for me as the AR-10 is just superior for fixing the issues I was experiencing. I am going to go back to the reason that makes the M1A a great battle rifle and try to rely on it's strengths rather than trying to make it something it isn't. Haha I know, about face. But this thread really gave me some good ideas. I'll throw a picture in the thread of the Sig 716i for fun and an update on the M1A as well. The sling is another situation of uncertainty. I tried to utilize the Sadlak front rail as a way to use a foregrip. I tried the Fab Defense RSG because it offers a pic rail attachment I thought I could utilize as a sling attachment point while also having the foregrip as a nice option. It worked kind of but not in a way that I liked so I scrapped that idea. Haha it never ends. But I love this process as much as I hate it.

So I think you're on the right track. I've tried these setups and will chime though not exactly apple to peanuts since you have an MRO and I have an AP-PRO. Standard SAI stock with the ultimak carrying the dot, you should not need a riser. Don't need a hard core cheek weld with the dot so the heads up position might feel natural without a riser. Obviously personal preference, but worth noting. Even my buddy who's an ex marine and AR fan boy liked the feeling.

In regards to the casm, if you're looking to keep the red dot, I wouldn't go for the casm strictly to avoid needing a riser. Magnification is a whole other topic, but I feel like the socom is a better support rifle to a DMR than the incurred costs of getting the socom to meet those standards. Especially if you already have the 716.

Sling options are tough and I ended up using some Amazon QD sling cups that have external threads and are designed for wood stocks. I drilled and in welded them in so I could have a few set up spots I preferred. Again personal preference and you just gotta break away from the "bolt on" mindset and get a little creative.

Similar for a forearm pic rail. I too wanted to utilize a foregrip/finger stop/barricade stop and ended up finding a piece of universal rail and attaching it. That was tricky since there's not alot of meat on a synthetic stocks forearm. I ended up kind of inletting a thin piece of aluminum strip into the bottom of the stock I had drilled and tapped for the bolts. Greased the bolts prior to and after install where they protruded into the stock a little and used JB plastic weld to keep the aluminum in place. The grease let me remove the bolts after and it worked well.

The synthetic stocks are junk so I'd suggest having fun laying out how you want it setup and if you mess it up they can be had cheap, or you can step up to a decent wood one later on.
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This was by far my favorite setup on the rifle and I'll be honest there are sometimes I wish I had stopped messing with it. I wanted the consistency and all weather/ durability of a chassis so I grabbed a black feather but this thing was perfect for everything inside of as far as I could see.

If you're looking for any parts or things you wanna try let me know, I have a whole shelf of parts from all my trials and tribulations.
 

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Here's a pic of the high tube adaptor on the delta. If you wanna try it out, you can have it just pay shipping. I'll never need it again.
455187


These are the QD cups I used to put sling points in a few spots. I just grabbed whatever I found on Amazon. Just be aware some are swivel and some are fixed rotation and the fixed ones are stupid when putting a sling in a non traditional spot....ask me how I know.
 
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