You can do that if you want to. The front bearing screw does not dig into the receiver, but it will make a mark in the finish. The screw only needs to have enough pressure on the receiver to keep the mount from moving around.
Haha ya. It’s an LRB so not concerned about displacing metal so much as leaving a mark if I decide to remove itIf that screw is actually displacing metal on the receiver, then you've got a bigger problem than you realize.
I talked to Mike Sadlak the other day and he mentioned it was an oval point set screw, if I remember correctly.They're flat point set screws, right? If not, switching to flat point ones would even out the minimal pressure they apply to the receiver and lower the friction when sliding. I don't think there is reason for concern here, but that might be worth considering if you're worried. That would be better than a cupped or pointed set screw.
That would be ideal. I’m thinking of using a small piece of feeler gauge to absorb the screwSet screw screwed up the finish on my rifle.
They should be made with a setscrew with a ball type point attached to a small plate that won't rotate when setting it. That's my ameture description.
Good idea, Wish I had thought of that. Perhaps that should be part of the instructions. LOL. Maybe a dab of grease between it and the receiver.That would be ideal. I’m thinking of using a small piece of feeler gauge to absorb the screw
Good call on the greaseGood idea, Wish I had thought of that. Perhaps that should be part of the instructions. LOL. Maybe a dab of grease between it and the receiver.
I believe you can get them through a hardware supplier (the ball-detent type), or you can also get nylon-tipped ones as well. The only thing I'm not sure of is if you can get them with the correct threading.Set screw screwed up the finish on my rifle.
They should be made with a setscrew with a ball type point attached to a small plate that won't rotate when setting it. That's my ameture description.
Thank you, I will check those out! Just finished massaging the Sadlak clip guide insert. These Sadlak instructions are like nothing I’ve ever seen and I was an aircraft tech pubs librarian in the NavyI believe you can get them through a hardware supplier (the ball-detent type), or you can also get nylon-tipped ones as well. The only thing I'm not sure of is if you can get them with the correct threading.
If nylon-tipped, check out McMaster-Carr under the "non-marring set screw" section. They also have the ball-detent type, and spring plunger type.Thank you, I will check those out! Just finished massaging the Sadlak clip guide insert. These Sadlak instructions are like nothing I’ve ever seen and I was an aircraft tech pubs librarian in the Navy
Will do, thank you Hutch!If nylon-tipped, check out McMaster-Carr under the "non-marring set screw" section. They also have the ball-detent type, and spring plunger type.
which rings did you go with? I'm thinking the Badger onesI've had Sadlak's on a few rifles and they all had a small mark in the finish from the mount and screw but they had many other marks/scars and wear in other areas that a screw tip mark didn't offend me in the slightest.
I've used and currently have Badger's on a few rifles - superb rings! I'm also partial to Night Force, especially the lightweight one's on my hunting rifles, and the Leupold Tactical rings which my Scout is currently wearing.which rings did you go with? I'm thinking the Badger ones
my thinking w the Badger rings is that they are tool steel and will take well to lapping. I do like the NF ones (I have a NF ATACR) but they are alumI've used and currently have Badger's on a few rifles - superb rings! I'm also partial to Night Force, especially the lightweight one's on my hunting rifles, and the Leupold Tactical rings which my Scout is currently wearing.