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Make sure the tab on the oprod is aligned w/ the dismount cut at the rear of the receiver (not the circular cut at the very end of the track--the wider spot under the windage knob). Lift up while rotating the handle out away from the receiver.

If that doesn't work (and it's common that it won't), get a screwdriver, get things aligned and gently pry the oprod hump away from the receiver while lifting up and pulling the oprod handle out and away from the receiver.

Ty
 

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A very tight op rod is typical on SA M1As. If you aren't comfortable prying it out of the receiver, you can send it back to SA and they will file down the tab to loosen the fit. But shoot four or five hundred rounds to break it in first (and to confirm there are no other problems needing repair). A tight op rod is good, as long as the rod isn't misaligned and scraping the barrel or receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Op rod is good and its like new rifle. I tried that before i post and was doing it right but i guess i got to use a screw driver. I just don't want it marked up, got to get it off so i can paint barrel and touch up and make sure everything is clean before assembling the rifle.
 

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Bravo2, I just recieved my M1A last thursday and I must of worked for 10 minutes removing my op rod. I finally saw what the problem was with mine, maybe yours is the same. The dismount notch isn't milled as deep as the guide track making a step you have to get over before you can push the rod up into the it. I lay my rifle in my lap with the muzzle point to the right with trigger towards me. I then get hold of the rod where the outer portion meets the tube section and pry out and down at this point while pushing handle end up in dismount notch. It pops right out. Hope this helps.
 

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SS100 said:
The dismount notch isn't milled as deep as the guide track making a step you have to get over before you can push the rod up into the it.
You hit the nail squarely on the head. If you take a look at the dismount notch on an M1 you'll find no such step. If you feel brave, you can take a Dremel tool - or a hand tool if you're not brave - and take a tiny bit of metal off the edge of that step. Changing the profile from a step to a ramp will eliminate the vast majority of the op rod dismount problems. If it's OK not to have the step on the M1 it's certainly OK to eliminate it on the M1A. Apply cold blue to any exposed metal when you're done.
 

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When my oprod will not come out of the track, I line-up the oprod's tab with the rail's dismount notch. I hit the bottom of the oprod handle with a small rubber mallet. I hit it so the rubber mallet's strike is down and away from the track. Also can use a plastic mallet. It works and can find no damaged to the oprods.
 

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Please don't do anything as stupid as prying with a screwdriver, or smacking with a mallet, or going at it with a dremel tool. If you do you could wind up bending, warping, or breaking something. Then you'd have no choice but to blame *your* SNAFU on Springfields faulty quality control.

The advice to fire a few hundred rounds through it before disassembly is a good one. It will definetly smooth things up. Just excercise some patience and it will come.

BTW, I recently painted my stainless barrel, looks pretty nice.
 
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