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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[ame]https://youtu.be/_rLEsRZOiEk[/ame]

Still not quite right but what a fun shooter when it's working! I'll try throwing a power custom endshake bushing in again to see if that sorts it (doubtful).
 

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Nice.

Were the .38's lead? Your binding problem may be related to lead buildup on the front of the cylinder and/or forcing cone. I have the same problem with .22 Smith's after around forty or fifty rounds. It doesn't lock it up, but it definitely takes more force to turn the cylinder.

Try an L frame if you get the opportunity. They are almost as comfortable to shoot as the N's, but they pack much nicer for everyday wear in the outdoors. I really like the 686 4" for everyday totin'-with a good outside the waistband holster and a sturdy belt.
 

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I'm not a wheel gunner either..... I watched it a few times and its hard too tell if its a cylinder issue or trigger finger issue.... I thought I saw a little hesitation on the pull, this was before you commented on the light and front sight. When you switched too the .38 loads they looked like the cylinder moved pretty smooth.

I would retest, or let another wheel gun shooter give it a go and see what they say?
 

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At least in your video you did not fire enough lead to cause binding in my
opinion.
I've seen this happen when the ejector rod becomes lose but the cylinder gets tight quick and to the point of locking up.

I've also seen debris get in the action and cause issues, I'll generally remove the side plate and flush it out when that happens.

Hope you get it fixed and that's some good shooting too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not lead. Cleaned 2x with particular attention to the cylinder face and forcing cone and under the star. Shot it again last night and the cylinder was binding by shot 3. Gap is less than .002" with cylinder pressed forward. Something is wonky. Called S&W today and they said try different ammo ICONROLLEY but eventually were apologetic and sent me another return label. Hopefully they get it right this time.
 

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Dug out my old, The S&W Revolver, A shop Manual
by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

He states that the Barrel to Cylinder gap should ideally be .004 to .006. minimum.

Anything tighter than that can cause binding.
 

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Well I'm a old revolver shooter, started out on them back in the 70's.

You can generally tell the difference between when you stack the cylinder for a shot and binding.
 
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ask them to look at the crane.
hot ammo and/or flicking action closed with wrist.
will warp the crane. a friend had a few 28's that
were fubar from him flicking them closed.
hope this helps
Lruss
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I told them end shake/cylinder gap and they reported end shake/cylinder gap. I will ask them to look closely at the yoke and crane this go round. I tried a power custom end shake bearing but it bound it up worse. The rear of the yoke barrel or whatever goes into the cylinder appears to be slightly bulged or misshapen.
 

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The way we used to fix end shake back in the revolver days was to take a modified hand held pipe cutter (the kind used to cut 1/2 and 3/4 inch copper pipe-only the cutter head was dulled to stretch the material and not cut it) and run a groove at the end of the yoke tube to stretch or elongate it back to specification.

This is the method we were trained on back in 1988 at the S&W Armorer's School. It is most likely the method still used by them.

You did this with a mandrel inside the yoke tube so as not to deform it. You had to be very careful with this, making sure that the cutter is not canted, constantly checking the front and rear cylinder spacing so as to not have binding occur. If you went too far, it was a pain to fix, if you could. You could only use this procedure a few times, but if done correctly, it worked every time.

The bulging that you are seeing at the end of the yoke tube could very well be this prior repair. It would seem that if they over stretched the yoke they will have to try to file it back to where it fits correctly.

If the yoke is completely out of specification, ie: bent, over-stretched or otherwise, it may have to be replaced.

Lruss is correct, we used to be horrified when we would see someone with a brand new revolver open the action and then ala TV Cop shows, flip the revolver to close the cylinder. That action can send the revolver out of time.

Send it back to S&W and let them deal with it. You could buy a new yoke for that revolver, but it costs around $62.00 from gunpartscorp.com, so let S&W fix it.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well it's on its way back. I asked them to evaluate the cylinder binding, told them my feeler gauge measurements, and asked them to take a close look at the rear of the yoke barrel or whatever it's called. we'll see. Hopefully I get a call before 16 weeks.
 
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