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Discussion Starter #1
LRB M-25
Leupold VX-3 4.5-14x40 LR

Looks like I can use TPS low rings based on the ring height calculator someone here sent me, but it could be very close to the rear sight aperture. 0.031" except that the thickest part of the eyepiece will be behind the rear sight aperture so I think I can get away with the low rings.

I know that some people grind down the tail of the rear aperture so that it can be removed & replaced on the fly. Does anyone ever just remove the rear aperture to get their scope lower?

I won't be able to co-witness the iron sights no matter what I do, and the scope mounting rings will be bolted on. No quick scope removal here, so what would be the downside of removing the rear aperture if I need to?

Just want to know if that's an option before buying what may be rings with a very tight fit.
 

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1/32" is tight but will probably be enough. On my first rebuilt rifle I removed the iron sights completely (blasphemy, I know). Never used them so why bother (scoped bolt action rifles don't have iron sights...)?

The modification you're talking about is actually to get the rear sight lower but once done allows the rear aperture to be removed without disassembling everything. May want to do it to see if it gets you some extra space, I think I only squeaked an extra click or two down doing it but that's still two clicks of extra space.
 

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I am making an assumption that you are referring to the hood on the aperture when you are talking about "grinding". I don't know exactly what system you are using. I use a Bassett low canted mount on my M1A and I used Leupolds Mark 4 rings that were their lowest which is about medium for most makers. I changed from a NM hooded aperture to a NM non hooded with .520 aperture hole and got plenty of clearance. I used the same system to try out the same scope you have with the same result...except that the 4.5-14x40 LR ended up on my 30-06 sniper rifle and I stayed with a 3.5-10x40 Mark 4 M1 on the M1A. They all cleared. Even the 4.5-14x50 LR that I tried had plenty of clearance.

I don't think I would go grinding on a hood. Simply remove the hood and keep all the parts and then use the base as a ghost ring if you need it. The hood can be reinstalled though some special tools to hold the snap ring, and instructions about the two springs and ball bearings are helpful. There is one person who makes that tool kit if you need the info let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, I wouldn't think of grinding the aperture hood.

My M14 book is out in my shop right now, but it shows a picture of a NM rear aperture with the bottom edge ground down at an angle. IOW from the lowest tooth, farthest from the hooded aperture itself, to the opposite edge on the bottom. The portion which is ground off is inside the sight body at all times. Can't find a photo online. The purpose is to allow you to remove the aperture so that you can swap them on the fly. I think it also allows the aperture to be lowered a tiny bit more (2 clicks per NoExpert?).
 

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THIS:​

2. FITTING THE NM REAR SIGHT APERTURE
A. Using a fine file, modify the underside and end of the aperture as shown, so that the aperture will not bottom out in the rear sight receiver well.

Figure 2A: Fitting the aperture to the rear sight well
You can take a little extra off the front end to get it to go a little lower, I think this is where my two clicks came from when I did it. I rounded the front lower corner to make a smooth transition to the face instead of a sharp corner like they show in the pic. Now my rear sight is bottomed out on the hood so it's really as low as it can go. I imagine you could go a touch lower with a standard aperture.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for that picture! You explained it much better than my poor attempt.
 

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Thanks for that picture! You explained it much better than my poor attempt.
Sorry Tinman, I misunderstood your original post. You were asking about making a M1 aperture fit into a M14. That's standard. The diagram shows how to do it. However, if you want the aperture to be removable and reinstallablle then you mill it back to the teeth. You can then take it out. I found that out quite by accident years ago. I'm not sure I think that is a real good idea though. I did try it briefly out of necessity due to my mistake but found that the grease around the aperture and in the slots attracts too much dirt and crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now that I have the scope & rings, no worries. To get proper eye relief, the thickest part of the eyepiece is just back of the rear sight. Roughly 1/4" clearance.
 
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