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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just cinched a deal with a firend of mine who bought a partially finished sporterized Remington 03A3. He was going to finish himself but finiancial issues just came up for him and he needed to sell a few things to make ends meet. Damn economy!

Regardless I need some info on this rifle as I intend to have it completed. The bedding job that was done on this rifle is shat and I'll have to have it redone. Not a problem. The reciever needs to be drilled for scope mount. Local gunsmith here will do that. The barrel looks O.K. but I'll have it bore scoped to get the real story here. If it needs a barrel I'll change it out to a Krieger medium sporter. The front sight blade has been removed and a untimed muzzel brake has been placed on barrel. I perfer timed brakes and may change this brake out with an Elite Iron brake. The rear lugs on the reciever for the irons havn't been removed, however, the rear sights are gone. The stock has been drilled out for flush cups. The wood stock is absloutely beautiful with all the burls and nice grains.

So I have a few questions about details and parts. I'd like to find a rear aperature sight for this rifle, but don't know where to look, and also would like any input about replacing the front blade for the iron sights. Also; Does anyone make a picitinny rail scope mount for this rifle?

These are all the inquerys or questions I have for now and some more will probably come up as I proceede with this build. Any and all info will be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just picked up the 03A3 from the gunsmith last Saturday and it came out real nice. I would have taken it back to original but it was well underway being sporterized when I bought it. I contemplated removing the muzzel brake, cutting threaded part of the barrel back, and having it re crowned without a brake. But it had already had been cut back to 22" and threaded for the brake it had and I didn't want to have the barrel cut back any shorter. So I changed out the brake it had for a timed brake. Also, I had a 1" Decel pad and a 1/4" stack plate added to the butt to correct for my pull lenght.

The gunsmith test fired a few rounds through it and said the felt recoil seemed a bit less than a .223 cal.

I had a Leupold VXIII 4.5-14X40mm scope that I was not using and mounted it with the Leupold standard scope rings. I'm not sure of the brand of scope base mount that was used but it is one that doesn't require that the iron sight lug on the reciever to be ground off.

It should make a good brush gun with the shorter barrel it has and it's light weight.

Heres a couple of pics.

View attachment 9066

View attachment 9067
 

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Looks good! Kinda like a Weatherby. BTW what's a timed versus un-timed brake?
 

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Looks very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good! Kinda like a Weatherby. BTW what's a timed versus un-timed brake?
A untimed brake threads onto the barrel with the vent ports 360 degrees all around it. A timed brake has the vent ports usually horizintal and sometimes 22 or so degrees upward from the muzzel. No vent ports facing downward toward the ground.

They mill or lathe off a few thousands of an inch or so from the back of the brake that threads against the barrel so that the vent ports end up horizontal when the brake is tightened on. They're actually "timing the threads" of the brake to the barrel to do this.

Timed brake is a necessity for shooting in the prone position with barrel close to ground otherwise with a untimed brake you kick up dirt and debree which pelts you in the face, showers shooters either side of you, and mostly important the objective lens of your scope. Also when using a bipod it makes the barrel jump from the downward vented gasses which causes you to have to rebuild your prone position back up for the next round sent. None of this stuff is a good thing and a timed brake eliminates this.
 

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Cool, thanks. I was wondering if it had to do with barrel harmonics like the old Browning "BOSS" system or something.
 

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You can get orig parts from Bill Ricca, Springfield Sporters, Sarco, Ebay has a few.
I just restored a SC 03A3 to orig cond and had to pick up a few parts to get it done
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can get orig parts from Bill Ricca, Springfield Sporters, Sarco, Ebay has a few.
I just restored a SC 03A3 to orig cond and had to pick up a few parts to get it done
Thanks for the info here. The gunsmith checked the barrel it has and said it was good to go. The gunsmith does alot of the 03's and says if it groups at 1" @ 100 yards thats about as good as it gets with these rifles. If the groups that I get are too much more than 1" @ 100 I may consider rebarreling it and the sources you have named above appear to be good sources for NOS barrels and parts.

We did find out that the bolt assembly this rifle has was new and unused before I acquired this rifle. I didn't fire it before I took it to my gunsmith. The gunsmith did check the headspace and fit before he proceeded with finishing the work I wanted done and it was good to go.

I probably won't be able to get to the range with this 03A3 until the end of Feburary due to my work load, but when I do, I'll be sure to post a range report here.
 

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Here is a pic of the SC 03A3 I picked up and a target at 50yrds now I have the fever for more C&R Stuff but not before I get my 1st Garand





 

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Nice SC!! If I lived in Tx I'd trade you one of my garands for the type writer rifle.Watch garands are habit forming.You cant stop at 1 I couldn't 12 and counting.
 

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Nice SC!! If I lived in Tx I'd trade you one of my garands for the type writer rifle.Watch garands are habit forming.You cant stop at 1 I couldn't 12 and counting.
I would love to have just 1
 
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