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I have a newly acquired Springfield Super Match and am working up loads to see what shoots best. My question is do I have to shoot the exact bullet I plan on using? That being, I have about 750 federal cases that I am starting with and Hornady 168 Match bullets ( on sale at local shop). I have Hornady Match cases and 168 Smk that I plan on using once I find out what is close for the rifle using either RE 15 , IMR 4064, or Varget. Am I wasting my time loading to the same trim length, seating depth, primer, powder, etc. with a different brand 168 bullet? I'll admit I'm tighter than Dick's hatband but the mixed headstamp box I got of .308 is mostly FC and I know from searching the site these are about 3-4 loading before scraping but trying to save my good stuff for tweaking load. Any advise is welcomed even if I'm being a bonehead. New to the site and the M1A .
 

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I have a newly acquired Springfield Super Match and am working up loads to see what shoots best. My question is do I have to shoot the exact bullet I plan on using? That being, I have about 750 federal cases that I am starting with and Hornady 168 Match bullets ( on sale at local shop). I have Hornady Match cases and 168 Smk that I plan on using once I find out what is close for the rifle using either RE 15 , IMR 4064, or Varget. Am I wasting my time loading to the same trim length, seating depth, primer, powder, etc. with a different brand 168 bullet? I'll admit I'm tighter than Dick's hatband but the mixed headstamp box I got of .308 is mostly FC and I know from searching the site these are about 3-4 loading before scraping but trying to save my good stuff for tweaking load. Any advise is welcomed even if I'm being a bonehead. New to the site and the M1A .
Yes, stick with one brand of brass, primer, seating depth and trim length until you find your sweet spot. How else are you going too have a baseline too return too, you have too have a known accuracy load first then you can start diddling around in the other areas too really tighten it up....

Clear as mud?
 

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Phil is correct if you're going to do a really thorough job of load development and testing.

But I'd start first by loading some plain vanilla loads to see how they perform.
e.g.
full-length resize the cases so they're any 'easy fit' in the chamber, and that the bolt rotates fully closed.
Trim cases to 2.000 to 2005 inch.
Load powder to give about 2500 fps MV - (try 41.0 of 4064).
Seat the 168 HPBT bullet to cartridge OAL of 2.80.
Learn how much trigger weight you can apply WITHOUT releasing the hammer. When you see a good sight picture - shoot.
Hold the trigger fully rearward until recoil is complete. Don't use a delicate 'just touch it off' trigger-pull - that can result in your finger bouncing around and firing a quick 'double'.

A load like above should shoot pretty well.

Learn to 'call the shot' by SEEING where the front sight is really pointing when the rifle fires. If the bullet hits where the front sight is pointing then don't change the sights.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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I like 42.0 grains of Reloader 15
168gr BTHP (Hornady or Nosler)
col trim to 2.05
OAL 2.80

My Ruger Precision Rifle loves this load. It also shoots great in the M1A Loaded. I am in the long process of working 1K of Lake City once fired at this time. What a long process.
 

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Sort your brass by head stamp-same date mfg., same mfg. Use the same bullet, primer, and brass for your loading ladder. Consistancy is the name of the game. Read Sierra's chapter on the semi-auto rifle(you can get it online), or if you don't have a reloading manual yet, get the Hornady manual(9 or 10), it has a section on the service rifle. You can find many loads that have worked for the guys here by using the search function. Check out Tony's videos-he's just put out one on basic reloading for the M1A that's good along with those on maintainance. When you are ready to spend a full day reading about these great rifles, check out Gus Fisher's posts but I warn you they can get deep but you'll know more about the M1A when you get done than most of the gunsmiths out there. Welcome to the forum from SD.
 

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I shot some decent groups out of mine today with LC brass and WW748/Sierra 168's
 

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The primer pockets on FC brass can open up by the 3rd firing. Make sure you are seating the primers with a hand tool and toss any that slide in easier than normal. Otherwise you will score your bolt face.
 
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