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hey ask,, my opinion is they all are about the same. They all do about the same. Untill your into competition dies that is. Then the company to be into is Redding.

Ps. I do like Lee's necksizing die for my fireformed brass out of certain rifles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DIES

THANKS ZAPP :D

I've been loading since 1955. After I got on the Police Dept they found out I could load. Opened the new Academy with a Camdex & 2 Star loaders
This stuff about measuring the cases after shooting in the M14 and then adjusting your sizing die accordingly ???????????

Regards
Alan (ASK) :p
 

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For the M1A I set up with a cartridge headspace guage. I don't recommend fireforming brass or sizing any other way for the M1A. (My Rem is a differerant story altogether, on that .308 I recommend a total precision load). Others will tell you that a round that chambers under slight finger pressure on your bolt is the way to go. So be it. Personally I think that spending $20 on the correct guage is the way.

I never heard of Camdex but have seen Star loaders before. Your Dillon must be a real nice piece of equiptment. Someday I may even get one, sighhhh :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Reloading M1A .308

Thanks Again ZAPP :wink:

Would you be so kind and provide Brand name of the Cartridge headspace gauge.
A Camdex is a fully automatic reloader. Feeds primers, cases and bullets.
Spits out a 1000 rounds in a blink of an eye.

Regards
Alan :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gauge

10-4 Thanks again :lol:

I'm having a Bush Barrel on a SA action setup at this time. I'm sure he will take into consideration about that Headspace mystic. I asked him to set it up for GI and .308 ammo.
Also, I have a Polytech. The bolt on the Poly closes snuggly on a Forrester GO head space gauge and won't close using a GI bolt using a GO, NO GO Forrester Gauge. I've compared the Poly Parts with GI/Commercial parts and CAN NOT SEE ANY DIFFERENCES. The Gas Cylinder is the only part that is rough. GI's ain't much better looking.
The rifle over all looks well made. S/N: starts with 237xx.

Regards
Alan :p
 

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Poly's are suppsed tp be a good rifle, xcept for a few thread being metric I guess all parts are supposed to interchange. Beware, its what you can't see is the difference. Namely soft metal.
 

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If you're going to be loading in any decent volume, the Dillon Carbide FL sizing die is super nice--it takes about 1/4 the effort to size as a standard die (you still need to lube though). It's definitely worth the $$ IMO.

Ty
 

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I like my standard RCBS sizing dies. Reddings are nice but I don't use mine much for some reason.
Also can someone please explain to me why it is better to set up your sizer die with a case gage than setting it to fit your chamber.
You aren't firing it out of the case gage and the chamber is what matters.
IF after setting it to fit your chamber you drop it in your case gage and it's above or below the steps on it then a HS check may be in order.
FWIW I set mine in the M14 to fit the chamber and it is on the tight end of the HS range and it is right at the bottom step in my lyman gage.
My m-1 is set up the same way with a gi barrel and it is right at the top side of the gage. Both are safely within HS specs. Both go 6 firings on Lake city brass and have done so for quite some time with never a failure. Now if I set my M-14 to the top step on the gage and the M-1 to the bottom step or anywhere else in between tell me my brass will last just as long and why you think that.
It would be down right dangerous (tight) in my M14 and would be pretty sloppy in the M1 doing it as some of you suggest.
 

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M14dan, I don't recall anyone saying one way was better than another way, faster maybe :D .

If your rifle can shoot mil surp ammo and .308 federal match you can use the guage. If nothing else its a quick check for every round and it makes it easy to see if your primer is too high.
 
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