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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

Anyone know what type of solvent can remove the remnants of Red (271) Lock Tight? Tried H #9, Acetone, Alcohol, etc. There is a whitish residue left after using heat to loosen enough to break the parts from each other. Thanks!

Regards, Jim
 

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With the 271, I've usually heated the part up, and used a wire brush to get the remnants off. We've also had good luck at work using aerosol gasket remover on some applications, though that stuff is nasty. It might not do your finish any good, either. I think Loctite also makes a solvent, but a search couldn't pin it down. You might also try a bearing supply house; they usually carry Loctite products.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Greetings,

Thanks liftrat22, I may follow up with these suggestions. I did use a brass brush to clean the threads in the upper and followed up with a very tiny jewelers' flat blade. There is still quite a bit of residue left though and I'd like to get it 100% cleaned out before I re-assemble.

Regards, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Red Lock Tight Update

Greetings,

For anyone needing to get rid of the residue left by red lock tight, Xylene is the ticket. After trying quite a few substances with no luck, I tried "Goop Off" (the heavy duty, small can version) and it did the trick. Far as I know, Xylene is the main ingredient and can be purchased for much less $.

Regards, Jim
 

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Thanks for that information, Jim. I'll try to keep that in my mental files. Appreciate the research.

Conrad
 

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heating up the loc-tite will harden and break the hold of the bond, I don't think it needs to be an intense heat either. I used a lighter to break some loc-tite on some screws holding a Troy rail system on my SIG, I will def stay with the blue stuff, red is too much IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Greetings,

Hi LukeSpook,

In many fire arms applications, blue (general #6 machine or larger) or purple (#4 machine, scope rings, etc.) lock tight is the correct grade to use. It pretty much goes by the size of the fastener and the degree of permanence of bond required.

In my situation, red was the required product to use. It took quite a bit of heat application from a propane torch and a lot of force on a pipe wrench to break the bond as well. Actually, much more of both than I thought would be required!

I usually stay away from red, but for this specific application (JP float tube) it was needed. I ended up severely scaring the special outer nut getting it off, but JP was great in selling me a replacement. A suggestion is if you have a project that will require using red, be sure to mock it up first completely and verify everything is correct before applying it!

Regards, Jim
 

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red locktight use

i use it for gas seal on the ar gas tube into gas block and between barrel /block also on the gas key mating area-the rest blue is great ...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Greetings,

Hi CZ777! I was just reading up on the gas key somewhere else. Two things were noted (sorry, don't recall where this came from). First, according to the official .mil tech manual, a certain type of gasket sealant is specified (I'll follow up on this). Next, the article mentioned that lock tight (Red) would not hold up to the heat at this position; a different product was suggested; "Rocksett" :

http://www.fortafix.com/rocksett-threadlock.html

From what I read, it is rated to 1800 degrees, while red lock tight only to 600ish. I have no experience with it at all, just wanted to pass this along. Also not sure if it is actually suitable to the gas key position. I'd be inclined to follow the tech manual specification.

Regards, Jim
 

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There is no part of an AR that requires Locktite, except on the surfaces between the gas key & carrier. Everything else should be installed dry, with assembly lube or with anti-seize. Although JP calls for red Loctite, even then it probably shouldn't be used. Aluminum threads should be tightened with assembly lube or white lithium grease as they will gall if dry. Don't use copper based anti-seize as it could cause corrosion problems between dis-similar metals
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Greetings,

Hi MistWolf!

How would you suggest securing the JP tube outer nut without using lock tight? I really wasn't too happy using red, but couldn't see another method that would hold up.

Regards, Jim
 

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First, I apologize as I mistook the JP tube for another. I have not looked at the JP tube in person. I've been studying the pictures of it on the JP webpage. I believe it's a matter of assembling it without the Locktite. If the barrel nut is torqued correctly, it should hold everything. I assume the barrel nut locks the tube nut in place.

Could you post the assembly instructions?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Greetings,

Hi Mistwolf! Sure, I'll post a link to the instructions and photos of actually doing it. It's much different than either a standard barrel nut/delta ring installation or any of the other types of float tubes I've installed in the past. There is an inner and outer nut; the outer nut is what needs to secure to the upper receiver and has to be lock tighted. The inner nut then threads into that, pretty much acting as a lock nut. The tube itself is attached to the outer nut with small machine screws. I'm sure that sounds very confusing without a picture. I'll try to get something up over the weekend.

Regards, Jim
 

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Jim, I apologize for having spoken out of turn concerning your handguard. I asked about them at m4carbine.net and Robb Jensen who knows far more about ARs than I do, assures me the red locktite is required to properly install the JP handguard. I hope I didn't lead you astray
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Greetings,

Hi Mistwolf! No problem...............I'd already had it together and was just thinking that you perhaps had a better method. It's all good!

Regards, Jim
 
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