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I noticed how hot my barrel got today after just shooting 3 quick shots in a row. My question: Is shooting a new M1A rapidly bad for the gun and its components? If so, how long should I wait between round(s) for the barrel to cool?

Just curious: How many rounds have you shot in a row without letting the barrel cool?

Thanks for your input everyone.

JHN
 

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Just curious: How many rounds have you shot in a row without letting the barrel cool?

Thanks for your input everyone.

JHN
10 full mags, full auto
 

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well as a machinist I can tell you that if you use it as an impromptu 240 MG then of course the barrel life will suffer. The hotter the metal the more the throat is subject to erosion. But if you use it the way it was designed you will be fine.

I bump fire my M1A in 20 round burst till it's too hot to hold forward of the bolt. and mine still shoots good groups as any. after several thousand rounds no less.

metalergy is better nowadays then when it was designed and it was designed with a selector switch..................

Couldnt tell you how many rounds at what rate of fire or any tech info.

But I highly doubt that shooting a 20 round magazine in any rate of fire is going to effect it in any major way.

Dont shoot it till the barrel is red hot and youll be fine.

JMO and experience.
 

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Interesting info about two thirds of the way down about rate of fire and barrel heating.
http://www.imageseek.com/m1a/M14_Preservation_Lubrication.pdf

Mk 14 rifle fired in semi-automatic mode for 160 rounds at a rate of one per second then
allowed to cool -
chamber temperature - 178 degrees Fahrenheit
gas cylinder temperature - 496 degrees Fahrenheit
sound suppressor temperature - 734 degrees Fahrenheit
cookoff - no cookoff after ten minutes
From FM 23-8, U.S. RIFLE, 7.62MM, Ml4 AND M14E2, Chapter 1, Paragraph 4

Rates of Fire. (These can be maintained without danger to the firer, or darmge to the weapon)

Semiautomatic (rounds per minute) :
1 minute...............40
2 minutes.............40
5 minutes.............30
10 minutes...........20
15 minutes...........20
20 minutes...........20
30 minutes...........15
 

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Bump Firing Any Gun tends to be Expensive
But it is a Blast
 

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Also, if you have the stainless NM bbl, those are far more resistant to throat erosion due to heat & gasses than either a chrome-moly or chrome-plated bbl. It's just metallurgy, m'boy!

With the "overbore" smaller-caliber, larger-capacity type rounds, like a 25-06 or the worst cases: 257 Weatherbys, 30-378s and so on, you really make things a lot worse with that continuous outpouring of hot gases streaming into the throat. It's possible to take out the throat of such a rifle in as few as 1000 rounds (meaning at the serious target shooter's level of concern of course), especially if you shoot ≥ ten rounds a minute!! Ouch!. Those bbl-burning overbore rifle cartridges still shoot OK, but the rifle will certainly begin to lose it's original pristine barrel accuracy early on if you shoot through it too fast GI1).

But meantime, just have fun!

(I wonder how often they have to change the bbls on a GE Mini-Gun... What happened to those in Vietnam, anyone?)
 

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It's expected. It's why you own these battle rifles. It's why you clean the barrel and chamber, keep the gas system crud-free, use plenty of grease. Timed fire you'll get 60 or 70 seconds to fire 20 in 2 strings of 5 + 5 ea or 2 + 8 ea.
 

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you can have fun, just keep in mind the hotter you keep the barrel, the shorter its useful life will be. having said that, i subscribe to the theory of- if you can afford enough ammo to shoot out the barrel, you can afford a new barrel.
 

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OK I'll be the spoil sport. If you just wanna' be shootin' up the countryside without concern for actually hitting anything accurately then by all means, shoot the heck out the rifle. But if you think that some day you might want to hit accurately past 100 yards then I would recommend not exceeding those standards that I quoted from the FM 23-8.

I used to shoot the daylights out of my old standard model, I've probably put 10,000 rounds through that rifle and probably half of those rounds were shot during just a handful of shooting sessions where I fired off as many 20 round mags as possible as fast as I could. The result; while the rifle is still pretty accurate and precise (on target and tight groups) the precision varies quite a lot. I can go from sub-MOA at 100 yards to 4" groups using the same ammo during the same range session. The barrel has micro-cracks every where. Those cracks were caused by overheating the barrel and they cause the barrel to foul very easily which results in changing the precision of the rifle. Not to mention that those cracks will eventually cause the barrel to fail completely (as in splitting).

Oh and by the way, just to clarify; the M14 was developed to replace the BAR, not the Springfield Armory M1A. There is a big difference in quality and metallurgy.

From FM 23-30, the Army's basic field manual for the Browning Automatic Rifle dated 1940;

Q. What is the best rate of fire? A. Semiautomatic fire at the rate of 40 to 60 shots per minute.
Now I don't know how that rate of fire relates to our current definitions for rate of fire (cyclic, rapid, semi-auto, or sustained) but I suspect that it is actually the equivalent of the semi-auto rate which is based on accurate hits and not barrel life. If they had listed a sustained rate of fire it would be a far lower rate. But with that being so, I also believe that the BAR could still hold a higher sustained rate of fire than the M14 since it had a heavier barrel. In addition, the BAR was designated as an "automatic" rifle as opposed to the M14 which has always been designated as a "semi-automatic" rifle. That means that while the M14 (not the M1A civilian rifle) was used as a replacement for the BAR it wasn't designed to perform the same function; namely, a fully automatic weapon. Therefore, the M14 platform was never designed to be used in a full auto mode on a regular basis.

Everybody has a right to do what they want with their rifle but at least make an informed decision before you go out there burn it up.
 
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OK I'll be the spoil sport. If you just wanna' be shootin' up the countryside without concern for actually hitting anything accurately then by all means, shoot the heck out the rifle. But if you think that some day you might want to hit accurately past 100 yards then I would recommend not exceeding those standards that I quoted from the FM 23-8.
+1 to that. I was thinking the same. I know guys "bump fire" their rifles for fun and like to upload them to youtube, but what a waste of ammo. One well placed precision shot is much more impressive then seeing how much ammo you could waste quickly.

As for the original thread - I would think since the M-14 was originally made to be full-auto, it would not ruin your rifle. Would get hot pretty fast though!
 

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I lube my guns with moly and i put a tad of moly in the gas system too then i let them rip with no worries about ever hurting it. I don't run mag after mag but i will rapid fire a large mag full.

I find that large capacity mags only shoot larger amounts of ammo. I like the 5rd and 10rd mags much better at the range.

When i went to welding school they taught us that the metallurgy starts to change at 400 degrees.

did everyone see that guy on you tube with the ak47 running drum after drum like 1,000rds non stop till it froze up and smoked and caught fire. So much for the 400 degrees on that one. It would probably still function when it cools back down too. It would be a great test for moly too.
 
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