[bartinmaumee]

I made a (reasonably) good buy on the net of a mid-60's Python that a local dealer had posted. I was told it was the duty carry of a retired police officer that passed and was purchased from his widow. Great so far.

Upon the first firing, the six factory loaded rounds, after firing, could not be ejected. In fact, each had to be ejected individually with a wood dowel.

QUESTION: Is this a "work thru issue", or should I just let this Colt become a safe queen?

 

[jake2far]

Check the chambers, they may be dirty or have rust.

You can polish the chambers to fix the issue.

Jim

 

[Dekker]

I am guessing the the ejector ratchet is grabbing the case rim but the cases are stuck and won't eject, if so check the cylinder walls for build up, it is quite possible the the former owner shot a lot of .38 Specials through it an there is a build up that is grabbing the side of the .357 Mag brass. This is a simple fix, simply scrub the cylinder walls and remove the fouling build up.
Now if the ejector ratchet is slipping over the case rims, then the ejector ratchet will need to be replaced.

 

[ConRich]

I made a (reasonably) good buy on the net of a mid-60's Python that a local dealer had posted. I was told it was the duty carry of a retired police officer that passed and was purchased from his widow. Great so far.

Upon the first firing, the six factory loaded rounds, after firing, could not be ejected. In fact, each had to be ejected individually with a wood dowel.

QUESTION: Is this a "work thru issue", or should I just let this Colt become a safe queen?

I would start by cleaning the cylinders, use a tight fitting bronze brush to loosen any carbon or old oil that may have turned to varnish. Pay attention to the throat of the cylinders, it is an area where lead and bullet jacket material tend to build up.

Rich

 

[stevegun 1]

I am guessing the the ejector ratchet is grabbing the case rim but the cases are stuck and won't eject, if so check the cylinder walls for build up, it is quite possible the the former owner shot a lot of .38 Specials through it an there is a build up that is grabbing the side of the .357 Mag brass. This is a simple fix, simply scrub the cylinder walls and remove the fouling build up.
Now if the ejector ratchet is slipping over the case rims, then the ejector ratchet will need to be replaced.

^^^^^^^^^This is the ticket!!!^^^^^^^^

Do not polish the cylinder walls!! Just clean them gently with a bronze bush by hand. Not knowing your experience, pinch the cylinder to the crane/yoke as you do so. Go slow, take your time. Make sure the chambers are completely dry before your next text fire and let us know.

 

[bartinmaumee]

Thanks for the quick responses!
The ejector is NOT slipping over the case rim. Wouldn't use that much force on an elderly lady.
Will give the cylinder a good cleaning, and report.

 

[MeatyMac]

Answer up in 10-minutes on a Sunday morning...! This forum is a treasure in so many ways GI1

 

[OregonRandy]

.38 wad cutter target loads would do that to a Mdl. 19 Smith and Wesson years ago, .357 brass would stick in the cylinder after a winter of indoor range practice shooting the wad cutters. Did it once, so from there on out she had the cylinder bores polished out before the longer brass ammo was shot.

Good luck, sounds like a sweet old girl and I am happy to read that you are treating her like a Lady

 

[63915]

Python

As others have stated he may have shot alot of 38 special ammo which is shorter than 357 that leaves a carbon and lead in the end of the chamber..After a day of shooting our service weapons with 38s we would use a Lewis lead remover in each cylinder along with the barrel...Let me explain.
The 38 cartridge brass is shorter than the 357 So the fouling in the chamber starts at the end of a 38 brass when fired..When you put in a 357 shell it extends further into the chamber and is being captured by the fowling left by the shorter 38...I would highly advise you to get the Lewis lead remover if you are going to shoot between 357 and 38s..The lead from the 38 target loads also will be deposited in the forcing cone of the barrel.If you do not get the lead out before you shoot a jacketed bullet you pose a dangerous high pressure problem caused by the lead residue in the cone. It takes a considerably higher pressure to push a jacketed bullet into the rifling than a lead bullet, so if it has lead deposited there the hole is smaller and you will get a higher pressure spike upon firing jacketed bullets and possibly injure yourself,the gun or both..Its not worth the risk..Ask me how I know! The 30 dollars or so for the lead remover is cheap insurance and peace of mind.

 

[Earthquake]

I am a S&W guy and don't know a lot about Colt's but I have heard that if you break any parts in them its hard to find replacements for them.

Casey

 

[jbrooks]

I have a Python I picked up new in the 70s. The chambers should be mirror smooth. Like others have said, 38 wadcutter ammo will gum up the front of the chamber.


Use a bronze brush with lots of Hoppe's. Chuck it in a drill and run slowly back and forth as the drill turns slowly.

Take it easy!

Lead spatter can also buld up in the throat area. Clean everything with a brass/bronze brush. No steel wool, nothing else.

JWB

 

[High Voltage]

What others said. Clean your chambers gently. Probably some front chamber .38 grime gumming it up.

The gun is probably fine.