M14 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a pretty good idea of oiling/cleaning for my DPMS AR 16" HB for normal use. But...no idea what/where to lube for continuous use without disassembly. Do I just pour in the lube on everything that moves?

I normally use Mobil1 5w30 and it works well for range shooting or is there a better lube.

Plus DPMS sells a kit w/lots of small parts. Will that kit be adequate?

My training was with M1 Garand and then M14 where grease is your friend.

When I bought the rifle I bought a slick sided version as there was no real need for me to be crawling around in sand and mud but things may be achanging....rapidly. :eek:)

Sorry for the long winded post, but advice from those w/experience would be appreciated.

seabreeze
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
443 Posts
Ar15s can't be run dirty and a quick 2 minute dissasembly and wipe down of the bolt carrier at the end of the day or every couple hundred rounds will leave the rifle and you much happier. Also AR type rifles run the best with a shean of oil too much oil will gather and hold the fouling and dirt where you don't want it.
Don't ever grease the ARs action you will have a bad day.

As far as a part kit goes I bought one that has every spring and pin except the main spring, take down pins, and a spare firing pin. It was just a generic one that cost me $20.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
947 Posts
Ar15s can't be run dirty and a quick 2 minute dissasembly and wipe down of the bolt carrier at the end of the day or every couple hundred rounds will leave the rifle and you much happier. Also AR type rifles run the best with a shean of oil too much oil will gather and hold the fouling and dirt where you don't want it.
Don't ever grease the ARs action you will have a bad day.

As far as a part kit goes I bought one that has every spring and pin except the main spring, take down pins, and a spare firing pin. It was just a generic one that cost me $20.
ARs don't run dirty and grease breaks them? Don't tell mine that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,794 Posts
Old standby used to be CLP(cleaner, lubricant, protectant) and applied with fingers to give surface coating on bolt/carrier, charging handle grooves, trigger/hammer parts and even lower and upper surfaces. Mind you not suggesting it is dripping wet with CLP but a light coating has worked for me. Do not oil chamber or bolt face itself, but some light coating on the multiple lugs is OK. Inside the carrier can be cleaned and there put a light coating as well. I would not suggest using motor oil. There are various more modern lubricants on the market these days, but have always used CLP. As for initial cleaning Brake Cleaner aerosol sprayed on all parts is good way to get rid of carbon, sludge, dirt, etc. and it will not harm the plastic butt and forearm(avoid Carb cleaner for it will eat the plastic.) I spray it down the bore and let it air dry and then swab w/ patch or two and good to go. Should mention that I also spray down the gas tube to rid it of any carbon fouling. Afterwards do rub down the plastic with the CLP and looks like new again. Just a suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Grease the contact areas of the bolt carrier with a thin film. A drop of oil on the forward assist and each side of the trigger/hammer springs. Since it is a direct impingement system and all the gas from firing is blasted back into the receiver, you want to lubricate it sparingly or you will end up with a mucky jamming mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
Ar15s can't be run dirty and a quick 2 minute dissasembly and wipe down of the bolt carrier at the end of the day or every couple hundred rounds will leave the rifle and you much happier. Also AR type rifles run the best with a shean of oil too much oil will gather and hold the fouling and dirt where you don't want it.
Don't ever grease the ARs action you will have a bad day.

As far as a part kit goes I bought one that has every spring and pin except the main spring, take down pins, and a spare firing pin. It was just a generic one that cost me $20.
Wow I guess I should clean mine after the 1000 rounds I put through it. I did clean the bore and chamber and put a couple drops 0-20w Mobil 1 in bolt carrier but that's it. Oh and Mobil1 has higher flash point then CLP and a carbon dissolver.
 

·
In the gilded halls of Valhala
Joined
·
13,515 Posts
Here is what I would do l if I were you

Have a good size cloth maybe a quarter bathtowel.

Lay out towel

Push rear takedown pin out.

Pull charging handle and place on towel

Pull bolt carrier and place towel

Place rifle to side

Wipe down and use a small cloth to apply your synthetic oil.

Reverse directions.

The ar is also designed to be oiled when the above method is not practical.

Carry a small squirting bottle of the oil
You can use a syringe to fill a contact lens solution bottle

Trim the tip to increase liquid flow.

Make sure you have no mag in the weapon and that the chamber is clear. (Check chamber with your right index finger. This allows for a level of certainty and let's you know the condition of chamber build up)

Carry this with you or a small can of break free or frog lube liquid or whatever .





See the depression the the side of the bolt carrier. This functions as an operating channel that opens the dust cover during fire, BUT also doubles as a great place to put lube. The two vertically arranged holes will distribute oil to the whole carrier.

Turn rifle on its side so the ejection port is facing upwards.

Squirt oil to fill the channel.

Now with the rifle still on its side cycle the action repeatedly and add oil until you are wet wet wet.

Running wet allows for easy wipe downs.


Beware of taking down bolt group in the field unless you have spare small parts or are very organized and careful.

Use proper muzzle discipline.

That's just my 2 cents. I use frog lube and remember oil.

I also use tetra grease where the hammer rubs the bolt carrier as well as a thin layer of grease on the locking lugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,198 Posts
I just spray down the stripped BCG and then wipe off the access then give a very light coat of syn grease and so far so good.
 

·
In the gilded halls of Valhala
Joined
·
13,515 Posts
Also a set of roll pin punches, roll pin holders and hex keys will allow you to remove the gas tube. The gas system should remain dry!

Tapco markets a gas tube mop (long pipe cleaner) as well as chamber cleaning pads I have not tried.

I clean the gas system once a year, it doesn't seem to have a problem

Everyone should have the wheeler scope mounting kit.

If you plan to build ar15 wheeler makes a great armorer kit.
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-AR-15-Armorers-Professional-Kit/dp/B00AUEHR6Q/ref=br_lf_m_1001141011_1_2_ttl?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&pf_rd_p=1755211162&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_t=1401&pf_rd_i=1001141011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=18GGQZPWV3REECVE64XG[/ame]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Re. Lubing M16/AR15 type weapons. I am still a firm believer in LSA. When working as a range armorer and safety NCO I would lube the weapons when issued with LSA. I can not recall any lube related stoppages when operating that way. When sent out to support other units that had a poor record of cleaning and lubrication a large part of the day was spent clearing jammed weapons. LSA may be gooey and sloppy but it holds all the crap in suspension and doesn't allow it to build up and jam the weapons.


USANG1 ARMY1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks Dredsen, this is what I am looking for. Only issue is My AR is slick sided, ie no dust cover or forward assist. Would u add to your recommendations under these conditions?

seabreeze




Here is what I would do l if I were you

Have a good size cloth maybe a quarter bathtowel.

Lay out towel

Push rear takedown pin out.

Pull charging handle and place on towel

Pull bolt carrier and place towel

Place rifle to side

Wipe down and use a small cloth to apply your synthetic oil.

Reverse directions.

The ar is also designed to be oiled when the above method is not practical.

Carry a small squirting bottle of the oil
You can use a syringe to fill a contact lens solution bottle

Trim the tip to increase liquid flow.

Make sure you have no mag in the weapon and that the chamber is clear. (Check chamber with your right index finger. This allows for a level of certainty and let's you know the condition of chamber build up)

Carry this with you or a small can of break free or frog lube liquid or whatever .





See the depression the the side of the bolt carrier. This functions as an operating channel that opens the dust cover during fire, BUT also doubles as a great place to put lube. The two vertically arranged holes will distribute oil to the whole carrier.

Turn rifle on its side so the ejection port is facing upwards.

Squirt oil to fill the channel.

Now with the rifle still on its side cycle the action repeatedly and add oil until you are wet wet wet.

Running wet allows for easy wipe downs.


Beware of taking down bolt group in the field unless you have spare small parts or are very organized and careful.

Use proper muzzle discipline.

That's just my 2 cents. I use frog lube and remember oil.

I also use tetra grease where the hammer rubs the bolt carrier as well as a thin layer of grease on the locking lugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Grease the contact areas of the bolt carrier with a thin film. A drop of oil on the forward assist and each side of the trigger/hammer springs. Since it is a direct impingement system and all the gas from firing is blasted back into the receiver, you want to lubricate it sparingly or you will end up with a mucky jamming mess.
This^

I will put a drop of RemOil, or whatever I pick out of the cleaning box, on my finger and wipe it inside the upper where the carrier slides, then wipe most of that off with an old washcloth. I use a light lithium grease in the buffer tube, just a breath of it, and I run a very lightly oiled patch down the bore after cleaning it. Drop of oil on the FA and one on the trigger pins every other cleaning, and that's it. I have a nickel boron BCG, and it runs perfectly with no lube at all. When I built my AR, I used top-of-the-line parts, they are all Milspec, and the only issue I've had at all was failure to feed on some subsonic rounds, and changing buffer weight cured that. Rifle is a 300 Blackout. I usually clean it after every range trip, usually 200 rounds or so.

Clean and dry is better than drippy and sticky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,324 Posts
A member here once posted - if it slides grease it, if it rotates oil it. That is what I do.

I wrote about this before, a friend, a local shooter, and a member here, Louis1332, installed a new Krieger in his service rifle, shot it almost every weekend to find the break point of the rifle without any maintenance. 3700 rounds later the rifle did not go back. He gave the rifle a thorough cleaning, barrel, BCG, etc. He then proceeded to shoot it again without any maintenance.

Fast forward to our state service rifle championship, the rifle did not go bang in the standing stage. He pulled the BCG and oiled it to free the firing pin and put the rifle back in service. This time the round count was 3500. Not only he finished the standing stage, but he finished the match, AND he won the 600 yard event with something like 197 or 198 with 8 or 9Xs. This was a rifle that got cleaned once after 3700 rounds.

He never tortured another barrel ever since, he found out what he wanted to know - the break point of the DI AR under match condition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,767 Posts
Ar15s can't be run dirty and a quick 2 minute dissasembly and wipe down of the bolt carrier at the end of the day or every couple hundred rounds will leave the rifle and you much happier. Also AR type rifles run the best with a shean of oil too much oil will gather and hold the fouling and dirt where you don't want it.
Don't ever grease the ARs action you will have a bad day.
About ten years or so ago a fella named Derrick Martin, who was on the All Guard rifle team, fired his AR-15 for an entire season of competition and practice without cleaning it, just to prove a point. He experienced zero (0) malfunctions related to not cleaning the rifle. I don't know how many rounds he fired during that time, but I would expect that it amounted to a few thousand.

I am also reminded of a torture test conducted by Shooting Times magazine; they fired 10,000 rounds through a new Colt AR-15 essentially as fast as they could. They used multiple shooters and a large number of magazines, and kept the rifle quite warm. IIRC, they had to oil the bolt 2-3 times during the course of the two days, but that was about the extent of what "cleaning" was performed. The rifle was keyholing the 55 grain FMJ bullets before the test ended, but it actually shot a smaller group at the end of the test (with a different load) than it had at the beginning.

I'd say that (good quality) ARs can be run fairly dirty without too many problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,950 Posts
I have a pretty good idea of oiling/cleaning for my DPMS AR 16" HB for normal use. But...no idea what/where to lube for continuous use without disassembly. Do I just pour in the lube on everything that moves?

I normally use Mobil1 5w30 and it works well for range shooting or is there a better lube.

Plus DPMS sells a kit w/lots of small parts. Will that kit be adequate?

My training was with M1 Garand and then M14 where grease is your friend.

When I bought the rifle I bought a slick sided version as there was no real need for me to be crawling around in sand and mud but things may be achanging....rapidly. :eek:)

Sorry for the long winded post, but advice from those w/experience would be appreciated.

seabreeze
Squirt some lube in the ejection port, work the bolt carrier back and forth is field-expedient. It's not like it's difficult to pull the rear pin and take the BCG out, wipe it down with a rag and re-oil either. I have had my best luck putting a few drops on the carrier, smearing them around (getting a bit on the lugs too) and then a couple drops down the snorkel on the gas key. Mobil is fine but a little dirty/gunky, I've had my best luck with this oil called M Pro 7. Every now and then I'll put a couple drops on the springs of the trigger group as well.

Never heard of any special tools to clean it. I use a little screwdriver to get at the carbon inside the carrier but that is a once-a-year thing. Chamber brush, some sort of rod, patches and a solvent is all you need along with your lubricant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Wow, just wow.

Do not use grease anywhere in the upper.

Do use a good lube and lots of it. You want the crap to remain in suspension. Mobile 1 is OK but there are much better lubes for extreme conditions. SLIP 2000 EWL and Fireclean are a couple that come to mind.

Do yourself a favor and do a search for Filthy 14, a training gun that last I heard was cleaned once at 26,245 rounds and is now over 40,000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
611 Posts
I'm a TW 25 B lube fan and very seldom have a hiccup in any of my AR's.
I run mine hard too 900 rounds in an afternoon is not out of the question.
TW25 B product I use is the grease.I lube the contact points on the bolt carrier for added lubrication.
It works into the metal and gives it a slick surface to run on.
I have treated the bore as well.After a long day shooting my bore is still shiny and yes the bolt gets dirty but clean up is a snap just wipe it down to get 90% of the dirt off then clean up is easy.
Essentially the gun runs on very little lube to the naked eye so it stays pretty clean even on dusty days.
No need to run an AR soaking wet IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
Wow, just wow.

Do not use grease anywhere in the upper.

Do use a good lube and lots of it. You want the crap to remain in suspension. Mobile 1 is OK but there are much better lubes for extreme conditions. SLIP 2000 EWL and Fireclean are a couple that come to mind.

Do yourself a favor and do a search for Filthy 14, a training gun that last I heard was cleaned once at 26,245 rounds and is now over 40,000.
I keep that sucker wet and just as important, I keep that dust cover closed.GI5
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top