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Well, I am loading 115 grn. lead bullets with 14 grn. of H110. Everything is trimmed right and seating depth is .020 under C.O.L. Win small rifle primer, L.C. once fired brass.
I am using RCBS three die set and is a roll crimp die rather than the preferred taper die. My problem is light primer strikes nine out of ten times. I jsut can't figure out wha tis the problem. I have two carbines and it is doing this in both. So I think I can eliminate the gun factor.

Could this be a head space problem due to too much crimp?
 

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Well, I am loading 115 grn. lead bullets with 14 grn. of H110. Everything is trimmed right and seating depth is .020 under C.O.L. Win small rifle primer, L.C. once fired brass.
I am using RCBS three die set and is a roll crimp die rather than the preferred taper die. My problem is light primer strikes nine out of ten times. I jsut can't figure out wha tis the problem. I have two carbines and it is doing this in both. So I think I can eliminate the gun factor.

Could this be a head space problem due to too much crimp?
It has been many, many year's since I have reloaded for mine but your mention of a 'roll' crimp is suspect in MHO... Jeff
 
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I know Lead is cheap but watch out for fouling in the tiny hole that is your Gas port.
There is no way to clean it if it becomes badly fouled.
My Iver Johnson (yuk) never did get fixed after I shot Lead.
 
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Roll crimping is bad since it messes up the headspaing. Use of lead bullets in a carbine are also bad for the reason that SGT John mentioned. The carbine gas system is not meant to be routinely disassembled. Rick
 

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Taper crimp will allow the brass to properly headspace off the case mouth. Too much crimp will not allow the cartridge to properly headspace and light primer strikes are the result.

If you fire factory ammunition and have light primer strikes, the first thing I would check on a clean carbine is headspace.
 

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The majority of 30 cal carbine reloaders suggest the taper crimp over the roll crimp.

I reload for both the M1 Carbine and a Ruger Blackhawk in 30 caliber.

Both headspace on the cartridge mouth with the Blackhawk being more critical.

I use an ever so slight taper crimp.
 

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How picky is the 30 carbine on case length then?
No need to trim, if that is what your getting at. Use a case gauge like you would (should) use for anything else, and youll be fine...if too short, light primer and or no primer strikes.

Hornady 110 fmjs are gtg with 14gr win296. I use rem 6.5's to ignite.

Slight taper crimp as mentioned before to remove flare is all that is needed.
 

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Carbine headspace is critical and can earn you an out of battery ignition. For me,
30 carbine is a pain to reload as the cases seem to stretch with randomness. I end up running all mine thru a trimmer each reload. It's amazing the variance in case length growth each time.
What kind of brass are you using? Ive been using PPU and never had to trim. cBC/magtech is unreloadable IME....
 

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I used to load 110 grainers over 13.5 H-110 if memory serves?
 

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How picky is the 30 carbine on case length then?
For the M1 Carbine not too picky, but for a revolver it becomes a little bit more picky.

If trimming for a revolver you must trim to the chamber length of the revolver.

The Sierra 9th Edition shows the minimum trim length to be 1.280" which is fine for the Carbine.

I have to trim the cases to no less than 1.285" for my Blackhawk.

I use 14.9 grains of IMR-4227, 110gr, FMJ. Sierra 5th Edition data.

Use same load for both rifle and pistol.

The Sierra 9th Edition no longer shows a load for IMR-4227 using a 110 FMJ, lawyers maybe?
 

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Nah I've just got a Saginaw carbine, and I'm putting off getting the conversion kit for the Dillon and the dies and components because I've still got a bunch of factory ammo for it, but it's disappearing at an alarming rate.
 

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I just looked for some of the cbc/magtech brass in my recycle bin, but did t see any..that stuff would come out stretched and almost deformed..not to mention missing primers.

The Prvi Ive been reloading hasnt been trimmed or needed it in 3x firings. im also using a new Auto Ordnance M1 Carbine, so maybe headspaced better than older guns.. No idea.

Either way, case gauge...allllways check your brass.

Also, want to add I was surprised the cbc brass sucked so bad for 30 carb..i use their 762 brass for 4 firings with no issue, and 9mm is going strong too.. Weird!
 

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If buying once fired brass watch out for the LC-52 stuff.

The Chinese began manufacturing counterfeit brass with the headstamp LC-52.

The brass is Berdan primed and will break decapping pins.

I bought approx 1000 LC once fired brass and then sorted it by date.

Found three of the Berdan primed cases in a batch of LC-52 but not before I bent a decapping pin on the first one.
 
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