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Preserving camo paint

13431 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Seventh Fleet
Not sure how to search for this, so I'll just ask.

I'm camoing my fiberglass stock with Rustoleum's camo spraypaint (flat, drab, earthy colors). With one base coat so far, the paint was coming off pretty easily. I put a second coat on last night and haven't checked it yet. What should I use to protect the paint job when I'm done painting my pattern on?

FYI, it's a USGI fiberglass stock, but it's had the selector switch filled in and it was coated in some kind of black textured stuff. Not sure what that stuff is, but I didn't mind the texture so I just painted over it. I hope I'm not trying to use the wrong paint for this...
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I have painted many stocks with Rustoleum and Krylon camo paints. If your first application was coming off I would stop. Chances are it will not get any better as you add more coats.

Did you prep the stock? I sanded each of mine with 250 grit I think and then cleaned the whole thing thoroughly with acetone. You could use alcohol as well. After the complete paint job I followed with 2-3 coats of a matte clear from Krylon or Rustoleum. It is actually very durable.

I wonder if the textured stuff was bedliner? That is a pretty common stock covering. I am not sure how paint will stick to that even after sanding.
 

· In the gilded halls of Valhala
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Sounds like you forgot to scuff up the stock. I would recommend using a paint like duracoat because it uses a hardener.

just my .02 gl with the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Admittedly I didn't do much cleaning to it. I was feeling young and dumb at the time :p. I also didn't sand it because I didn't want to mess with the texture, but it sounds like I may have to anyways. No big deal, I may end up scraping it all the way down to the original USGI layer.

Not sure about the bedliner, as I don't have much experience with bedliner. It's definitely not special paint though.

I'll see what happens with this second coat. The rest of the pieces are finally coming in. If it's showing wear by the time I come back from the first range trip, I'll be doing a lot of sanding.

Thanks guys.
 

· In the gilded halls of Valhala
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think of it more as polishing than sanding.. it won't effect the texture.just scuff it up
 

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I use that stuff on every thing, you cant get any better than Rust o leum for that price.

Scuff it up and then apply a clear coat of polyurethane, I use Miwax polyurethane it starts off very sticky so dont touch it( I let my polyurethane dry for about a day before i touch it) but in the end it is almost as good as dura coat.

Good Shooting.

TXS
 
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If your first coat came off, all others will also. Something about the present coating is not allowing the paint to adhere to the finish. Only two things to do: 1) Strip the present coating off the stock. Use any brush or spray on paint remover. When the finish is off, wash with warm soap and water and dry. 2) Use a primer. Most times a good primer MUST be used first to ensure good adhesion of paint to the surface being painted regardless of stock material or paint...just a fact.

You can try a primer coat before stripping, but don't be surprised if it comes off as well...seems that something about the present finish is somewhat "slippery" regarding paints. Any good spray primer can be used, just be sure it is 'hard' dried (3-4 days) before camoing. Always apply lightest to darkest colors in sequence to get good color register. After you're done painting, allow to dry hard again and then cover with a clear satin or dull finish (light coats) until you get the dullness you want. This clearcoat help protects the camo finish from scratches, scrapes and such. And it also allows you to use gloss colors as well as dull colors to have a better selection of colors.
 

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I've painted just the guns I've scratched the crap out of. As torch said above, prepping is important. I use denatured alcohol, then rubbing alcohol. The great thing about rustolium is a little touch up never gets noticed. Here's a rifle I built, then dropped ... about 30 yards down a scree field while hunting woodchucks (dolph!)...



and another that took a dive off a tailgate onto asphalt...

 
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About ten years back I built a couple of IMBEL FAL parts kits onto IMBEL gear logo receivers. Once the rifles were finished I used Brownells Alumahyde paint on the metal as well as the plastic stocks. It took a couple of weeks to dry but it gave me a very durable finish that has held up really nicely. I found this video that you may find helpful with your project...

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8oCh_all-Q[/ame]

7th
 
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