To remove the front site you need castle nut pliers and an allen wrench for the set screw (maybe a gas lock wrench to break to torque.
Midway has pliers, gas lock wrench, and unitized cylinder. Everything but the piston. Pistons can be had all over. I usually buy them direct from sadlak when they have them in stock. Fulton armory has everything you want, though their gas cylinder price is a tad high.
Is this a shorty rifle that uses a gas lock front sight?? If not, leave the front sight on the flash suppressor and take the flash suppressor and sight off together. You need to take off the dog screw that's angled at the BASE of the front sight that locks the castle nut in, with an allen wrench. Then use the castle nut pliers to loosen the castle nut. Remove suppressor, unscrew and remove gas lock, remove cylinder. No need to remove sight.
I do have an extra NOS GI gas piston that's never been used if you're interested. Send me a pm. As for a cylinder, LRB sells a commercial cylinder for $94 and change without the spindle valve and spring, or a welded unified commercial cylinder for 179.95. LRB's quality is very good. -Check with SAI store for a set of castle nut pliers. Hope this helps. -Lloyd 🍻
The OP indicates it's a Chinese rifle. Probably should replace the gas cylinder and piston, but will need matching Chinese or a US parts set. Don't loose the castle nut or gas lock even if you switch to US gas cylinder.
What Kurt said.
My first couple tries to loosen the castle nut, it would not budge. I soaked it every time I walked by it for 4-5 days. It came off pretty easy after the penetrating oil soak. Put the gas cylinder wrench on the gas cylinder. It is splined to the barrel and will give you the ability to apply torque to the castle nut without trying to get your wife to hold the rifle down.
OP, do you still have the fake factory flash hider on it ?? If so those were spot welded (weakly) to the barrel. AFTER you remove the allen head screw that locks the castle nut in place, unscrew the castle nut. Then you're going to want a large BRASS punch and small hammer. The spot welds are light and found on the bottom rear of the factory fake flash hider. A few hits with the hammer will usually break them free.
Use the punch to drive the fake off the barrel. A small file will get rid of any trace of the welds before installing a new flash hider.
A forum community dedicated to M14 and M1A Rifle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, ammunition, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, Modern, Devine, SOCOM, EBR, classifieds, and more!