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Pillar bedding discussion..

2442 Views 22 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  4gundrill, 
A
What is the definition of pillar bedding as it relates to the M1A?
Is pillar bedding an advantage?

These two questions always bring about different answers and opinions, leaving the subject subjective...

The advantage of pillar bedding and how to best achieve it has been discussed at lenght. My argument, or position, concerns the mateial/materials used to form the pillar.

As an example: Speaking of the receiver heel that has a lug that is drilled and tapped. The bottom surface is the concern in this instance. There seems to be two popular methods of creating a pillar from the lug bottom to surface of the rear bedding pads of the trigger housing.


1. The area between these two surfaces can be bedded solid using an asssortment of products. Done in a manner that produces a solid material mass from top to bottom. A hole is drilled and a screw is used to torque the two surfaces together..

2. The area between the two surfaces is occupied in part by a metal pillar, surrounded on all sides by bedding material in a manner that leaves the top and bottom of the metal pillar in direct contact with the heel and TH bedding pads. There is no bedding material between the pillar and the surfaces of the heel and pads. If there is bedding material between the two surfaces why install a the metal pillar?

Number two is a true pillar bedding method.. This method is an accuracy advantage in my opinion... What is your's?

Art
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Excellent ...

Hello Art,

Thank for taking the time to share your excellent information, I have learned much from it.. Your new metal bedding system will be a success with that kind of thinking behind it.. Looking forward to having one to mess with..'

The first attempts at pillar bedding were failures, the rifles actualy shot poorer. Don McCoy was the first, to my knoe poor results.. The Idea slipped into the background for a long period.

Several years ago I started trying to work out the issues of the pillars,, all failures. In a conversation with Ted Brown, he suggested that the usual draw pressure of the trigger guard be eliminated if using a screw in the rear lug. He knew what he was talking about, that suggestion produce great results, thank you Ted... Art
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Shooting Sight's post.

The advantage of having skills and the knowlege to use them allows one to write such an excellent piece, thank you Art N.

Art states that, a thin layer of bedding maerial is Ok because there will only be slight compression. I'm sorry Art, I don't buy into any compression, plus a thin layer of bedding material has a high risk of flaking off.

It is a labor consuming task to do a pillar, front or rear, and avoid no layer of bedding material to get between.. Since the only pillar bedded receivers I have seen, except my own and the ones I have built,, suggests perhaps I'm the only one that knows how.. I fully intent to teach Banbam how to do the bedding if he ever pushes his chair away from the Dinner table.. .Art
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Meaty mac

Don Mc Coy never really got into double lug M1's too deeply, or pillar bedding either, he did not have the time, frankly his builds did not need them, plus he was on hand to fix any issues...

A slight amount of draw on the guard is fine, very slight.. When I used the word eliminate it may have been a poor choice.. You do not want the TH to move around...

Find any good M1's ????? Art L...
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Interestig

Well, my poition sounds a bit like hair splitting after you post..


For your information as a different method of the lug with screw, here is an early method I used and kept secret. Actualy, it may have been better, perhaps you can speak to it..

The early lug and screw method was similar, but the area under the lug bottom surface was covered with a layer of clay, approx .050"' thick, the edges of the clay were carefully trimed even to the lug edges. The receiver was bedded with the clay on. When the rec. is removed there is a void under the lug bottom surface. No contact what so ever on the bottom..

The idea is, which you probably already figured out, was to use the bedded heel horse=shoe surface as the pressure surface, and to some extent both rec. rails.. My early match rifle all use this method, successfully, very successfully.

The other aspec of pillar bedding or non- piller bedding evolves around the shape and size of the escution. The best design was counter sunk for screw head clearance, the contact surface for the bottom of the 1/4 x 28 socket head screw was taper to the same angle as the drill bit angle, 52 degrees ???.. When these screws seated they were more positive than a flat to flat seating.. Extra work , like all shooters Iwas looking for an edge, never shared this information.. Won the 200 sitting stage at Perry, 297 11X, with that rifle that was later stolen that day... Art
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help

Phil McGrath said:
Me?????? Yes my screws were counter sunk with cap screws beveled too fit the pillars as you described. I think Derick used a shot out barrel section that he lathe turned/squared one end. He then knurled and beveled on the other side too match the cap screws for the actual pillar.
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This Post was suppose to go to Shlooting Sight, please forward to him....Art
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check you old M1A,,

Bamban said:
I agree, bedding material between the two metal parts is better than metal to metal, IMHO. Besides what Neergaard mentioned about the surface roughness, I think unless the pillar and the lug are surface ground flat before assembly there is no telling how the two mates.
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The one with 5,000 rds fired...Art
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check your old M1A,,

Bamban said:
I agree, bedding material between the two metal parts is better than metal to metal, IMHO. Besides what Neergaard mentioned about the surface roughness, I think unless the pillar and the lug are surface ground flat before assembly there is no telling how the two mates.
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The one with 5,000 rds fired...Art
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