I know I have posted this before, so if you have already seen this, please ignore.
There are some receivers that don't have the slots aligned correctly. I had a Armscorp M14 that had the horizontal slot fairly far off. I don't own that rifle any more. I had another Armscorp that had the horizontal slot correct. I don't own that rifle any more either. (Shoulda kept it but it had other problems.)
My mount of choice from many years back is a B-Square. It has no keys at all but uses two large STEEL set screws that fit against the receiver web on the left side. They can be adjusted to change elevation. I adjust them with slight tension as the attachment knob (yes, knob, not knobS) is tightened. Some of the mounts come with brass tipped screws but those brass tips will peen and the mount gets loose. I replaced them with the steel tipped version.
This mount lets me put in 20 MOA or whaever it takes for me to sight in my telescope with plenty of adjustment remaining to in theory get out to 1000 yards from a 100 yard zero. On one Leupold 6.5-20 EFR, I had about 54 MOA of elevation remaining after zeroing at 100 yards.
I also use Millett Angle-Loc rings to make slight windage corrections when zeroing to leave the telescope's internal adjustments as centered as possible.
The mount is a bit high to allow the use of iron sights even when installed. The attachment knobs for this mount are a bit soft, but after stripping a couple, I just put a white index mark with a dash of paint on the knob and the receiver. That prevents me from over tightening and it also lets me tell if the mount is shooting loose which it does not.
This setup is good enough for repeatability in that I have removed and re-attached the scope between each shot and still been able to hold sub-MOA.
The key trick on this mount is the slight tension. It makes for repeatability.
YMMV, but this works for me.
- Ivan.
There are some receivers that don't have the slots aligned correctly. I had a Armscorp M14 that had the horizontal slot fairly far off. I don't own that rifle any more. I had another Armscorp that had the horizontal slot correct. I don't own that rifle any more either. (Shoulda kept it but it had other problems.)
My mount of choice from many years back is a B-Square. It has no keys at all but uses two large STEEL set screws that fit against the receiver web on the left side. They can be adjusted to change elevation. I adjust them with slight tension as the attachment knob (yes, knob, not knobS) is tightened. Some of the mounts come with brass tipped screws but those brass tips will peen and the mount gets loose. I replaced them with the steel tipped version.
This mount lets me put in 20 MOA or whaever it takes for me to sight in my telescope with plenty of adjustment remaining to in theory get out to 1000 yards from a 100 yard zero. On one Leupold 6.5-20 EFR, I had about 54 MOA of elevation remaining after zeroing at 100 yards.
I also use Millett Angle-Loc rings to make slight windage corrections when zeroing to leave the telescope's internal adjustments as centered as possible.
The mount is a bit high to allow the use of iron sights even when installed. The attachment knobs for this mount are a bit soft, but after stripping a couple, I just put a white index mark with a dash of paint on the knob and the receiver. That prevents me from over tightening and it also lets me tell if the mount is shooting loose which it does not.
This setup is good enough for repeatability in that I have removed and re-attached the scope between each shot and still been able to hold sub-MOA.
The key trick on this mount is the slight tension. It makes for repeatability.
YMMV, but this works for me.
- Ivan.
