[Lee49645]

Hello everyone,

First things first I live in California. Back in late November, I heard about the AW ban that was coming and I really wanted to get my dream gun before it was too late.

So I finally purchased an ebr through PPT. It has fulton armory parts and a SEI trigger. Everything looked and felt smooth and when I took it to the range I started noticing minor issues.

First, the CMI that I got with the deal doesnt feed correctly. Every other bullet I fire, I would have to manually pull the bolt back to load the bullet into the barrel. Weird thing to me is that the empty shell ejects just fine.

Next I switched the springfield mags and the problem went away. THEN after about 50 or so rounds same issue. I had to manually pull the bolt back to feed a round in.

is this a mag issue or lube issue? maybe both? Will I be able to lube everything including the bolt roller without taking the stock apart?


TLR

California Compliant M1A Sage EBR with fulton armory parts and SEI trigger. CMI and Springfield Mags. Fires OK. Ejects OK. No Feed. Have manually pull bolt back to load bullet in. Is this is mag or lube issue?

Thanks in advance.

 

[m14brian]

Could be a mag issue, a lube issue, or possibly a op rod spring issue.
It could also be short stroking from the gas system, check the hole underneath the gas cylinder with the op rod pulled back and make sure it is completely circle and open and a paper clip can go all the way through.

I usually buy Wolff extra power springs, I notice the improvement most in the mags.
Measure your op rod spring, especially if you don't know the origin/manufacturer. Replace at 15" or at every 2,000 rounds. I put a brand new from the wrap USGI spring in my M1A, only a couple hundred rounds through it, at my yearly inspection it measured 15" so goodbye. I'm trying a Tubb chrome silicon op rod spring this time, I hear they're the bomb.
m14brian

 

[Lurp]

Could be a mag issue, a lube issue, or possibly a op rod spring issue.
It could also be short stroking from the gas system, check the hole underneath the gas cylinder with the op rod pulled back and make sure it is completely circle and open and a paper clip can go all the way through.

I usually buy Wolff extra power springs, I notice the improvement most in the mags.
Measure your op rod spring, especially if you don't know the origin/manufacturer. Replace at 15" or at every 2,000 rounds. I put a brand new from the wrap USGI spring in my M1A, only a couple hundred rounds through it, at my yearly inspection it measured 15" so goodbye. I'm trying a Tubb chrome silicon op rod spring this time, I hear they're the bomb.
m14brian

I did not know that about springs.

Could be a mag issue or oprod. More exp people are on there way to explain why.

 

[KurtC]

We need to know exactly what is happening in order to narrow it down. RNGR2

When you fire a round, does the bolt stay closed or does it eject the spent case?

If the case is ejected, does the bolt pick up the next cartridge? From each side of the magazine?

 

[Rich D]

Is it clean and greased properly, as you mention lube more than once?

 

[BTAZ]

Welcome also from California ( south OC ) and with EBR equipped M1A and second almost ready for installation assembly..
I will look into this Wolff extra power springs since I did have a issue with Sig P226 spring before..


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[POLACK]

https://www.youtube.com/user/tonyben3 video's for diagnostics

check gas system spindle valve/tilt test/make sure gas holes aligned/op rod rubbing etc

try different mag

 

[Capona]

Welcome to the forum

 

[ordnance21XX]

Welcome to the forum. Happy Shooting

 

[DrMoebius]

Welcome also from California ( south OC )

Welcome! I'm up the coast in San Pedro. Good to know there's some other SoCal people around this place

 

[JayKosta]

Yes you can lube all the important places without major disassembly.
Unlatch the trigger guard to remove the trigger group, but no need to remove the receiver from the stock.
Use Q-tips to remove the old grease, and also to apply new grease.
Don't over-do the amount of grease - only a visible 'sheen' of grease is needed on the metal-to-metal contact points.

You can use just about whatever type of grease you want - automotive wheel bearing, chassis, 'white lithium', etc. it really doesn't make much difference unless you expect using the rifle is 'severe conditions'.

About the feeding trouble, what ammo are you using? American Eagle 150 grain FMJ (or pretty much any brand of 150ish grain FMJ) is fine. If you are using some type of 'soft point' or 'round nosed' bullets, that could be the problem. The rifle is designed for 'spire point' bullets - either FMJ, or HPBT.

And feel the feed lips of the mags for any 'snaggy bits' - smooth them with a fine file or manicure emory board.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

 

[Lee49645]

We need to know exactly what is happening in order to narrow it down.

When you fire a round, does the bolt stay closed or does it eject the spent case?

If the case is ejected, does the bolt pick up the next cartridge? From each side of the magazine?

When I fire a round, the bolt goes back and the empty case is ejected but next bullet does not go in.

It will not pick up the next bullet in any of my CMI mags and only every so often on the springfield mags.

Is it clean and greased properly, as you mention lube more than once?

From what i can tell yes. I took the trigger group out and looked inside. I see grease streaks in all the moving parts. Op rod rail looks ok too.

check gas system spindle valve/tilt test/make sure gas holes aligned/op rod rubbing etc

try different mag

I did the tilt test before going to the range and it passed. I just checked again and it DID NOT pass. looks like I gotta take it a part for cleaning.

I only fired maybe 60-80 rounds that day. ZQI 147 Grain FMJ. I think the op rod is rubbing the side of the barrel too. I see some scratch marks.

Yes you can lube all the important places without major disassembly.
Unlatch the trigger guard to remove the trigger group, but no need to remove the receiver from the stock.
Use Q-tips to remove the old grease, and also to apply new grease.
Don't over-do the amount of grease - only a visible 'sheen' of grease is needed on the metal-to-metal contact points.

You can use just about whatever type of grease you want - automotive wheel bearing, chassis, 'white lithium', etc. it really doesn't make much difference unless you expect using the rifle is 'severe conditions'.

About the feeding trouble, what ammo are you using? American Eagle 150 grain FMJ (or pretty much any brand of 150ish grain FMJ) is fine. If you are using some type of 'soft point' or 'round nosed' bullets, that could be the problem. The rifle is designed for 'spire point' bullets - either FMJ, or HPBT.

And feel the feed lips of the mags for any 'snaggy bits' - smooth them with a fine file or manicure emory board.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

Thank you very much for the advice. its a relief to know i don't have to disassemble the chassis. Unfortunately I redid the tilt test and I noticed the piston is still stuck inside, so it looks like I need to take it apart anyways.

I re-checked the mags and the feed lips are all smooth. I use ZQI 147Grain FMJ.



Thanks to everyone who also replied to my thread. After another check. I've decided bring the rifle to a professional and have it inspected and cleaned. The culprit seems to be my gas piston which I least suspected because it passed the tilt test before I shot it at range with maybe 60-80 rounds but now it does not.

Luckily for me there is a gunsmith shop who specializes in M1A style rifles. Hopefully it wont cost me an arm or leg.

 

[WaM14gunner]

You are on the right track. BTW, its a small matter but a bullet is a projectile that leaves the cartridge case when fired. A cartridge is not a bullet.

 

[m14brian]

Make sure the person working on it is knowledgeable about M14/M1As, and it doesn't get passed to some help that isn't as qualified.

There could possibly be a problem with the gas piston/system being out of spec, I find it hard to believe it would be that dirty enough to cause this problem in 80 rounds, I have an M1A that I got in 2004 that I have never taken the gas system apart or cleaned any of the internals, and I have shot 2,000+ rounds through it and it still passes the tilt test. Every rifle's combination of parts is slightly different though you never know.
I purposefully neglected my M1A to see what it can take. It's a pretty tough rifle. All I did to it was wipe down the outside and bolt, and change to Wolff springs.

Let us know what they find!
m14brian

 

[Rich D]

When I fire a round, the bolt goes back and the empty case is ejected but next bullet does not go in.

It will not pick up the next bullet in any of my CMI mags and only every so often on the springfield mags.




From what i can tell yes. I took the trigger group out and looked inside. I see grease streaks in all the moving parts. Op rod rail looks ok too.



I did the tilt test before going to the range and it passed. I just checked again and it DID NOT pass. looks like I gotta take it a part for cleaning.

I only fired maybe 60-80 rounds that day. ZQI 147 Grain FMJ. I think the op rod is rubbing the side of the barrel too. I see some scratch marks.




Thank you very much for the advice. its a relief to know i don't have to disassemble the chassis. Unfortunately I redid the tilt test and I noticed the piston is still stuck inside, so it looks like I need to take it apart anyways.

I re-checked the mags and the feed lips are all smooth. I use ZQI 147Grain FMJ.



Thanks to everyone who also replied to my thread. After another check. I've decided bring the rifle to a professional and have it inspected and cleaned. The culprit seems to be my gas piston which I least suspected because it passed the tilt test before I shot it at range with maybe 60-80 rounds but now it does not.

Luckily for me there is a gunsmith shop who specializes in M1A style rifles. Hopefully it wont cost me an arm or leg.

At some point, you need to learn how to completely field strip, clean and lube your weapon properly. I would do that now, and try the range again. As you bought it from a private party, you have no idea what kind of crud is inside your rifle, and if it was lubed a long time ago, the grease can harden over time. You never can tell. Maybe someone greased the piston to make it slide better!

 

[JayKosta]

At some point, you need to learn how to completely field strip, clean and lube your weapon properly.
...

-----------------------
Yes, learn how to do that - it's not difficult.
There are plenty of online guides and video about doing it.

For cleaning the gas system and piston you'll need a small wrench to remove the gas plug, AND SOME WAY to hold the gas cylinder and gas lock stationary while you unscrew (and reinstall) the plug - there's a special tool that can be used, but I'm sure you'll see other ways too. The important part about working on the plug is to physically HOLD the gas cylinder stationary while doing the plug - the plug screws into the gas cylinder, and you NEED to prevent the gas cylinder from twisting on the barrel.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

 

[BTAZ]

Welcome! I'm up the coast in San Pedro. Good to know there's some other SoCal people around this place

San Pedro is close to my work in Long Beach..
Where are you going to shoot your Rifle ?


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[Capona]

You are probably short stroking either because your not getting enough gas from a dirty gas system, or your op rod is rubbing on something and slowing down with friction, or a combination of both. Clean it all up including the gas system. Make sure your oprod isn't rubbing, check the oprod guide for movement. It should be rock solid and aligned so the piston hits the oprod square. Without the oprod spring in place it should all flow smoothly back and forth with no binding.

When it fails to pick up a round. If you pull back the oprod all the way and let it fly does it then pick up the round?

Don't be afraid to rip it apart. You got to get there anyway. It's an easy firearm to strip down. Take pictures for brain muscle memory when in doubt.

When I fire a round, the bolt goes back and the empty case is ejected but next bullet does not go in.

It will not pick up the next bullet in any of my CMI mags and only every so often on the springfield mags.




From what i can tell yes. I took the trigger group out and looked inside. I see grease streaks in all the moving parts. Op rod rail looks ok too.



I did the tilt test before going to the range and it passed. I just checked again and it DID NOT pass. looks like I gotta take it a part for cleaning.

I only fired maybe 60-80 rounds that day. ZQI 147 Grain FMJ. I think the op rod is rubbing the side of the barrel too. I see some scratch marks.




Thank you very much for the advice. its a relief to know i don't have to disassemble the chassis. Unfortunately I redid the tilt test and I noticed the piston is still stuck inside, so it looks like I need to take it apart anyways.

I re-checked the mags and the feed lips are all smooth. I use ZQI 147Grain FMJ.



Thanks to everyone who also replied to my thread. After another check. I've decided bring the rifle to a professional and have it inspected and cleaned. The culprit seems to be my gas piston which I least suspected because it passed the tilt test before I shot it at range with maybe 60-80 rounds but now it does not.

Luckily for me there is a gunsmith shop who specializes in M1A style rifles. Hopefully it wont cost me an arm or leg.

 

[JEFFJP_N_JJ]

I have learned to keep my gas system clean and do use the 'pipe cleaners' that were hard to find for me... .45 wire brush and a shotgun swab... .410?

DO invest it the drill bits as well

 

[gunrunner99]

If you are in south Orange County you can stop by my shop. OC Armory. Be happy to look at it.