[ph12321]

Go get "The M14 Complete Assembly Guide" shows you how to disassemble and reassemble in a very helpful step by step guide. A must for any M1A / M14 owner.

Available on PDF on scribd, but I can't post a url, because I do not have 5 posts yet... Great site, and great thread! I am new to M1A's, and will hopefully have my first one soon! Thank you everyone for the great info!

Do a google search for:
the m14 complete assembly guide pdf

First link that comes up...

 

[Dragoon 15]

Barrel Break-IN

http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

Here is a link concerning breaking in a barrel. The author finds no value in breaking in the barrel.

The author suggests that a dull reamer is responsible for causing a burr to be developed on the "wind" side of the rifling - barrel manufactures tend to exceed the life expectency of their reamers. Firing several bullets will help to reduce the burr.

Dragoon 15GI2

 

[slopoke]

I don't know if has been brought up before but, to make your own gas system drills with custom handles is easy. Stick a small screwdriver handle into some clay and make a form. Mix up some cheap two part epoxy and pour into the clay form. Then set your drill bit into the epoxy and wait for it to setup. File down any ridges and there you go, handles for your bits.

 

[Wilson_D]

can’t seem to get it straight

I just purchased a new M1A STD rifle from Springfield and Forest Gumped my way to the range and thought I was doing the right thing by shooting 25 rounds of Winchester 150gr Power Point, running a lightly oiled patch through the barrel between each shot without any issues. Then I read not to shoot rounds with exposed lead or partially jacketed rounds through my M1 due to the lead particle issue.
The more I read about this “battle ready weapon” the more confused I get, so I am reaching out for help here. I do want to keep this great weapon in the best condition, shoot it also, and would like to learn the best practices to reload the ammo (I know the warranty issue) and to purchase the best ammo for this rifle (.308 Win or 7.62x51 NATO), or, is it the same beast.
The paperwork that came with my M1A states that the headspace for my rifle is “1.631”; would this make a difference as to the over-all length of a round that I would reload? To be specific, the Layman 48th edition reloading handbook has the .308 Winchester (7.62 NATO) OAL at 2.810, I noticed that the TM 9-1005-223-12 technical manual for the 7.62-MM/M14 rifle (page 58, Authorized Rounds) states “Length (in.) for the 150.5gr (approx.) is 2.80in. Could I surmise that the difference is not an issue? Am I over thinking? I do want the best care for my M1A, and I know you all understand my concern. I would like to also ask you, where in Gods green gravy can I find the best reloadable ammo within spec. for this rifle without selling a kidney and, additional body parts? I have exhausted my search on the net and it’s no-where to be found for a reasonable price, that’s why I’m asking the reload question.
Would any of you experienced re-loaders share the absolute best reload data for my M1A, ie powder and grain amount, primers, case and bullets ( I like the 150gr), there is a lot of data out there and I would value your opinions over all other data. I have a Dillon RL550B, in the Dillon catalog I can purchase the 3 set dies for the .308 Win, or is there another preferred die set that would be better or, more like the 7.62 NATO for the M1A, is there a difference? I apologize if this question has been addressed, I just can’t seem to get it straight in my head. GI3 DISHOUT

 

[Medic7903]

Today I am reborned. Today I am borned a rifleman!!

USAF2
Today I bought my M1A Loaded. I worked out a very good deals with my local gun shop and made the big move!! A smile comes to my face everytime I look at my rifle.

As always since I am new to this platform I do have a few questions. First of all does anyone know the correct order for seansoning the barrel. I have heard several different ways, and I am looking for the correct way to do this.
Second is How do I find out the born on date of the rifle, it is a model SA9222 Loaded with the Ser # 2457XX.
Third is the rifle has a hooded rear sight. Not sure why when everthing that I have readed say it should have a open/ nonhooded rear sight.
This is just a few of the meny questions that I have.
Thank you in advance.
GITEN

 

[Hawk]

I just purchased a new M1A STD rifle from Springfield and Forest Gumped my way to the range and thought I was doing the right thing by shooting 25 rounds of Winchester 150gr Power Point, running a lightly oiled patch through the barrel between each shot without any issues. Then I read not to shoot rounds with exposed lead or partially jacketed rounds through my M1 due to the lead particle issue.
The more I read about this “battle ready weapon” the more confused I get, so I am reaching out for help here. I do want to keep this great weapon in the best condition, shoot it also, and would like to learn the best practices to reload the ammo (I know the warranty issue) and to purchase the best ammo for this rifle (.308 Win or 7.62x51 NATO), or, is it the same beast.
The paperwork that came with my M1A states that the headspace for my rifle is “1.631”; would this make a difference as to the over-all length of a round that I would reload? To be specific, the Layman 48th edition reloading handbook has the .308 Winchester (7.62 NATO) OAL at 2.810, I noticed that the TM 9-1005-223-12 technical manual for the 7.62-MM/M14 rifle (page 58, Authorized Rounds) states “Length (in.) for the 150.5gr (approx.) is 2.80in. Could I surmise that the difference is not an issue? Am I over thinking? I do want the best care for my M1A, and I know you all understand my concern. I would like to also ask you, where in Gods green gravy can I find the best reloadable ammo within spec. for this rifle without selling a kidney and, additional body parts? I have exhausted my search on the net and it’s no-where to be found for a reasonable price, that’s why I’m asking the reload question.
Would any of you experienced re-loaders share the absolute best reload data for my M1A, ie powder and grain amount, primers, case and bullets ( I like the 150gr), there is a lot of data out there and I would value your opinions over all other data. I have a Dillon RL550B, in the Dillon catalog I can purchase the 3 set dies for the .308 Win, or is there another preferred die set that would be better or, more like the 7.62 NATO for the M1A, is there a difference? I apologize if this question has been addressed, I just can’t seem to get it straight in my head. GI3 DISHOUT

Your questions concerning ammo should be posted in the Ammo Bunker as you will get better results/answers.

USAF2
Today I bought my M1A Loaded. I worked out a very good deals with my local gun shop and made the big move!! A smile comes to my face everytime I look at my rifle.

As always since I am new to this platform I do have a few questions. First of all does anyone know the correct order for seansoning the barrel. I have heard several different ways, and I am looking for the correct way to do this.
Second is How do I find out the born on date of the rifle, it is a model SA9222 Loaded with the Ser # 2457XX.
Third is the rifle has a hooded rear sight. Not sure why when everthing that I have readed say it should have a open/ nonhooded rear sight.
This is just a few of the meny questions that I have.
Thank you in advance.
GITEN

Your questions would be better asked in the Firing Line as this is more of a what not to do, than what should I do.GI2

 

[GP Cobb]

Ammo

What about ammo. I read civilian 308 Win has soft primers. So what about this slam fire business?

 

[gunner400]

WOW theres a lot of info here
Thanks to you all.
Dan

 

[jburr01369]

Outstanding Thread!

MC1

I just took delivery on a NIB Standard M1A this afternoon. The last time I had my hands on an M-14 was October 1968 (I was with Fox 2/3 as an 0311) when my First Sergeant forced me to survey it for one of the Matty-Mattel M-16s (I HATE that piece of crap rifle). I was the last guy in my platoon with an M-14 (I had to de-link M-60 MG belts to get ammo for my mags).

This thread has been MOST helpful. I've been reading it over the past couple of weeks waiting for the rifle to arrive. I'm looking forward to an Appleseed Shoot this weekend to zero-in my new toy, and get a few hundred rounds down range.

Thank you all!

 

[mrphoto]

Welcome to more fun than sex

All I can give you is some tips I have learned with over 30 years of loving these rifles. Dry for dry. If the weather is dry, I use dry teflon spray on the op rod, op rod spring, guide, and coat the piston for easier cleaning. But this does nothing to protect against rust. If the weather is wet, use triflow, or some other advanced oil. I say advanced, so stay away from just some light oil like 3 in 1. But if you are out in dry windy conditions, this route will cause dust and grit to stick to everything. Dry for dry.. wet for wet. The bolt roller and cam cut out in the op rod are the exception. You will want to grease the cam cut in the op rod that the bolt roller rides in. And get a bolt roller lube tool. Yes, you can do it by hand. But this tool (From fulton armory.) makes it so easy and clean. Plus it flushes out all the old grease and dirt, powder fouling and anything else. Trigger group, just oil pins, grease the sear surfaces. And as a last tip, I use brake cleaner to flush out and off all the crud after the normal cleaning steps. Dont shortcut maintance. Take care out this animal, and I don't care if you are only a youngster, your' grandchildren will still be shooting this rifle... if we can still have 'em.

 

[Legasat]

This thread just keeps on giving. Thanks to everyone who contributed.

Just picked up a new M1A Scout, and have learned a lot already just by reading.

Last time I held an M14 was in the early 80's. M14's are what my ship carried.

Thanks again.

 

[hubb1953]

I just registered here the other day. I have been reading the stickys and roe. The knowledge here is priceless. Many thanks to everyone.

 

[echokilo60]

newbies,we were all there once

m1a newbies,buy an m1a,read TM 9 1005 223 12,buy grease. i use g.i. rifle grease.white lubriplate is also acceptable.grease bolt roller,locking lugs,op rod recess(where roller runs),guide(where tube section of rod runs),guide lug(where rod engages receiver),top rear of bolt and hammer face.CLP,LSA or any gun oil is ok for remainder of trigger group components.never polish,grease or oil gas system parts. if you reload,understand headspace,use cartridge case gauge as aid in die set up,headspace gauge your rifle,best case run only brass that is 1.new or has previously been fired n your rifle.understand that [email protected] do not share cartridge or chamber dementions. feed only from magazine,even single load,never drop bolt on chambered round. before replacing parts understand headspace,firing pin protrusion/intrusion,retraction bridge function.if you know nothing about m14s buy only commercial specimens,not custom built by jo blow gunsmith. best of luck, i hope this helps

 

[ECHO5CHARLIE]

Great info Gents!!!!

Also get your hands on a "old school" sling!!
DI4JMPWNG2

 

[kitzmiller]

Handloading?!

My Dad recently bought an M-14 NM. Being that I make all of his bullets for him, does anyone have any load data that they found accurate?

 

[fatelvis]

My Dad recently bought an M-14 NM. Being that I make all of his bullets for him, does anyone have any load data that they found accurate?

40.5 grns. H or IMR4895 under a 168 match bullet, seated to 2.8". Easy on the rifle, and very accurate.

 

[R J Walker]

New guy to M1A

I'm new to the forum and I have lots of questions about my rig. I just purchased a used M1A with a synthetic stock. What say you about synthetic stocks.
Another question I have is about the sight on the gun. Being new I would like advice on the proper way to use the sight or should I go with a scope. All advice is more then welcomed.

 

[cachunk]

First M1a

Just picked up an M1a Scout Squad ( with the walnut stock, I guess I like the old school) on Sunday havent had a chance to take it out yet, this thread is great thanks for all the contributors

 

[tank1949]

Wht my M1A doesn't shoot accurately

I purchased an M1A some years ago from SA and eventually shot out the barrel. So, I had SA install a second barrel. I shot out that one too.

I purchased a Krieger barrel from Krieger and paid a fellow named Clint Fowler to mount it and double lug receiver and accurized whole weapon.
He added some invention he referred to as an adjustable gas system and floated the barrel. It was pretty clever, if it worked. The rifle didn't shoot as expected, even using hand loads. I sent it back to Fowler, and included my Brookfield type scope mount, hoping that the mount was the problem. My vision requires a scope, since I wear bifocals and cannot use irons as I once was able to.

Most all Brookfield or Smith type mounts require a deflecting shield or some of the empty hulls will bounce around in the battery area and cause a misfeed. I welded a deflection plate onto the stripper clip guide to remedy this. SA 3rd generation mount was plagued with this problems too, and it is aluminum.

Shield also acts to minimize hull impact directly onto the underneath lower part of the mount, thus minimizing the jarring of the scope.

Nonetheless, he didn't solve the accuracy problem. He only created some goofy quick release system for the mount. It's my understanding that the mount was supposed to be permanently attached to receiver in the first place. He charged me about 300 bucks on the second trip (PLUS SHIPPING) and the problem was still there. I am very disappointed in his work.

This rifle, at best shoots a consistent 4" group at 200 yds. If I thought it was just my inability to shoot a high powered rifle, I would accept that inadequacy. However, every other rifle that I own (M1 Grand and 3 ARs shoot exceptionally better). All shoot sub-minute of angle using scopes and on a bench.

Strangely, heat seems to be the focus or a clue to the accuracy loss. 45 grains of 4895, Remington culled 163 grain hulls, shooting 150 gr SMK hit the x ring at 200 yds. Second shot maybe an inch away. Then the remainder of the five shot group go to hell. If I let the rifle completely cool, the pattern repeats. In my opinion, something is expanding. I believe the barrel is stressed relieved by the nature of its rifling process.

Am I expecting too much from this rifle??? Any clues on accuracy improvement?

 

[10mmShooter]

Hey Everyone, I'm new to the forum, lots of great info, as you all mentioned as a kid I was a gun nut, and now approaching 50 I'm picking up my first new SA M1A standard loaded on Tuesday...I cant wait. BANANA1BANANA1

Quick question....I've been reloading for 20 years, but the MIa presents many special challenges. I'm going to load with Redding .308 Comp dies, they size the neck separtly and use TiN collars(I choose .336 size) and then Redding uses a body die to clean up the rest of the catridge and knock the shoulder back as needed to get proper headspace. Does anyone feel it necessay to go with an SB die. I'm pretty confident the Redding comp standard body die will get the case dimesions back to spec for reliable cycling.

BTW...I'm loading 40.5 g of IMR4895 under a Sierra MK 168, with WWLR primers in Winchester brass..I'm still trying to acquire some LC match brass.(This seems to be the load of choice)