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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy fellas. Merry X-mas.

Opened my present to my self today(A pre ban poly I got in on a trade).

Man is it rough and dirty!!!!Any ideas for what I need to work on this first to make it a accurate shooter?


Here is a few shots and some questions.

First up, Shot of the rifle and serial number series. 09xxx

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/p1.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/p1.jpg

Serial Number:

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/p2.jpg

Why so much grease?

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/g1.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/g2.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/g3.jpg

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/g4.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/g5.jpg





Question about the FH, why it is such a different color from the barrel and rest of the gun. It is a shiny black(Annodized looking)


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/f1.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/f2.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/f3.jpg


And the chamber, Is this a badly worn chamber or normal?

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/c1.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/c2.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/c3.jpg

http://www.x-velocity.com/14/c4.jpg


And every few times I let the Op Rod back, the Bolt roller either jumps out or gets stuck by pushing the handle away from the rifle?


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/r1.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/r2.jpg


http://www.x-velocity.com/14/r3.jpg


Edited for spelling.
 

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I think it looks great. 8)

Not all of our children started out as pageant winners. ;) ('cept for mine!)

My guesses to your questions are as follows:

Grease is present as rust inhibitant (sp?) 'cause gun was being stored?
I won't mention what else if it ain't what I just said. You might have traded with a friend or family member and I wouldn't want to offend you.

It may have originally come with one of the solid/fake FH's and the previous owner swapped it with the one on it now. The current one looks aftermarket to me. I could be wrong.

Hard to tell about the chamber with all that grease. What's up with that!!!
Problem is that if the previous owner always shot it with all that grease the grease could've trapped and held various crap (dirt, brass shavings, etc.) that may have scored &/or damaged some of the components. All in all it just may need some minor clean up, smoothing, and detail work.

Op rod tab is most likely worn and needs to be hard-welded, re-milled, and re-fit to the receiver channel. Not a difficult thing to have done. Talk to warbird here. I know he does the tab work.

Looks like you got a decent rifle that just may need a little TLC. Good luck.

HTH
 

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I bought a pre ban Poly Tech before there was a ban. Mine was packed with grease to, lots of grease. I got tiered of running solvent through it and getting nowhere, so used gas as a solvent until the patches came out half way clean. My op rod was sloppy too. I tried a few USGI oprods but the barrel is wider at the chamber on the old chi com barrel and kept binding up. Mine never did turn into a shooter, so it has and still is a project rifle. It shoots, just not under 4MOA. Some day when life stops interfering I will re-barrel it. I have already collected most all USGI parts for it, including the F.S. . That fake F.S. on mine was the first to go. At least you already have that taken care of. Clean it up, it may be a shooter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I just stripped most of the grease off, and it seems to cycle much smoother.


Jack, What do you mean by I already have the FH taken care of. I still dont know why that thing is totally different looking in finish than the rest of the gun.
 

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Some of the aftermarket FH's I've seen appear, to me, to have been oxidized rather than parkerized. Cheaper, easier, and faster process.
 

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Did you notice (or is it just me?) that the SA hammer has a different/blacker finish than the rest of the trigger group?

That would indicate to me that the hammer has been replaced.

Quit trying to find things wrong with it.

Fix it up.

Follow XXVI Corps' advice re: ammo.

Shoot it. 8)
 

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Looks like you have a pretty nice Poly M14 to me. Are you pulling out on the charging handle when you cycle the action instead of pulling straight back? If you are that could explain the the op rod dismounting the rail, then again it may just be too loose. Looks like someone saved you the expense of replacing the closed faux falsh suppressor with one with open vents and bayonet lug.

The first thing you should do before you shoot it is degrease it, check the headspace and if it is good, go out and shoot it.

Regards

Ox.
 

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You haf learn your lesson well, Grasshopper.

OK. You can stay. :D

Remembah, alrays rook aye Danielson. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well fellas.

Between checking your replies and taking pictures I got her degreased and put back together including installing my ARMS #18 and a scope.


Here is a few shot. Shooting will be during the week when I have some time away from developing my 6.8 SPC rounds.







 

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Looking much better already. Mine came with the fake F.S. on it. It was really embarrassing to take it to the range with that faux suppressor on it. At least you have a real flash suppressor, even if the color is off. The chi- com hammer on mine wore about 200 rounds after I owned the rifle. I replaced the hammer and most other trigger assembly parts with USGI. I still use the original housing for now. The trigger guard lock up was very lose too. Replaced it with a H&R and have a much tighter trigger group lock up now. If you don't have head space gages, have a smith check the head space for you. It doesn't take long and shouldn't cost much to have someone check it out. If it's good to go, send a hundred rounds of ball down range to give her a good workout and see how it shoots.
 

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I'm sure that the difference in color from FH to the rest of the rifle is just a matter of parkerizing. The chinese rifles are typically a lighter gray than the GI/American rifles. My polytech came with a GI FH that was darker than the rest of the rifle. I had it reparked and the entire rifle came back a nice even charcoal color. The difference in shades is nothing to worry about unless you are an absolute stickler for aesthetics. :)
 

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Looks like you have a keeper to me now go burn some ammo. My ploy is my go to the range gun shoots very well replaced the trigger group rear sites stock & put a muzzle brake on it.
 

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The blue color is the annealing process. The blue color means they heated it to the right temperture so it wont be brittle, but hard and springy(metal changes every color of the rainbow as you heat it) Like ahhhhhh... steel banding. Dan does parkerizing.
 
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