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Discussion Starter #1
I previously posted on my purchase of an Armscorp rifle and trouble removing the Op Rod from the receiver. Well, after numerous more attempts, I am still unable to get it free. I've laid my Polytech side by side with it and observed tab placements, etc., but this thing just will not budge, and there is no indication it is in the tab slot to facilitate removal. Anyone have any other suggestions or special tricks to get this out? I'd really like to remove the bolt and clean/grease it up good, but right now I can't. Is there a sweet "pry point" anywhere? I hate to use muscle over brain power to get this done GI2
 

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I am not a fan of the screwdriver prying method. Obviously you know where the tab is on the oprod and the slot in the rail on the receiver. Well get them lined up and give the charging handle a wrap with a plastic or rubber mallet. I have the same happening with a couple of my rifles. If you need illustration let me know. You will be surprised how easy they come out with a tap from the plastic hammer
 

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Rod removal

I am not a fan of the screwdriver prying method. Obviously you know where the tab is on the oprod and the slot in the rail on the receiver. Well get them lined up and give the charging handle a wrap with a plastic or rubber mallet. I have the same happening with a couple of my rifles. If you need illustration let me know. You will be surprised how easy they come out with a tap from the plastic hammer
Excuse the jumping in here, but it might be helpful to suggest the tap come from the underside of the charge Handle while the prying direction is from the top side..

Once the rod is removed, check the removal slot on the rec., most of the time, on difficult to remove rods, the top portion of the slot has a raised surface, you have to look very closely because it is small, if this is the case, remove that small raised area. I think this small raised area is a result of a second stage milling operation in which the cutting depth was not deep enough leaving a hump that interferes when taking the rod off..... Art
 

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Art is correct, the hump is there on many and is caused by what he said and trash or milling material not being swept away while being milled, I have seen it in receiver bridge top flat cuts too where the bolt stop lies at rest.

I just got one of the toughest I ever faced out the other day, here's how I did it.

It is a slight of hand operation really. You have to put pressure on the exact points at the same time and evenly. Sit in a comfortable chair and lay the rifle across your legs with barrel pointing left and op rod handle up. Place the heel of your left hand against the barrel at the chamber, this is your leverage point, then reach with your fingers at the op rod tubular point where the spring enters, three fingers placed just behind the hole entrance, give it some flex so you can get the feel for it, you will see it bend and give back and forth as you leverage up your grip on it. While leveraging, you want to put pressure straight up to the sky with your left fingers and hand on front of op rod, just like the rod needs to come out of slot, but don't go too hard and bend it permanent, I don't know how strong you are,....Then, get some pliers or channel locks and leather padding, if your thumb and first finger don't work for next step,....as you flex the op rod up at leverage point, grasp the handle at the rear, and put pressure clockwise while lined up with the slot.....the tab is longer on bottom and you must rotate or roll the tight ones out. If it doesn't work, get the leather and wrap around the handle and use pliers to grip it and turn while leveraging up front at same time. Don't forget to jiggle it back and forth gently to find the slot happy spot while torqueing it.

As soon as you get it out, I would take a file to that sucker and knock the top two corners down a little radius turn or so. You will see the inside ninety degree corners of the slot are rounded and the op rod is square, make em match, but easy does it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I guess persistence pays off. I finally propped the op rod handle on a wood block, pressed in HARD, and pulled up, and it popped out with a distinctive ring! Let me tell you it was very very tight. Before reinstalling I filed the sharp corners on the tab slightly, and reduced the tab thickness ever so slightly. It's still tight, but I know I'll be able to get it off again next time now. Thanks for your ideas - sorry to be a newbie PITA, but my Polythech is so easy, and I'm pretty proud of the Armscorp and didn't want to bugger it up any. BTW Art - you are right. There is a small slightly raised area that wasn't milled off. I can mill that next time I have it apart, so I think the problem is solved.

While I'm here, can anyone identify the barrel marking now that I can see it. I'm guessing 1/10 .308 made 2/06, but not sure what 35T and CC stand for?

Also, is ther any significance to the "M" electro-penciled on the bolt bottom?

Lastly, the hood rear aperture is marked .595. Is this a standard size? I thought NM were .520?

Thanks again, and here's proof positive it came off GI1





 

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The M on the bottom of the bolt indicates Magnetic Particle Inspection or MPI for short. A process used to detect flaws after proof fireing.

NM apatures come in 2 sizes. .520 and .595.
 

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Thank you sir - I was just reading about the optional sizes while researching a little. With my old eyes, I thing the .595 will work out better (chuckle)

I guess there is a lot to learn about these weapons. All I ever did before was shoot the darned things! GI2
 

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Barrel ID

It's a Barnett barrel purchased and /or installed through Champion's Choice in TN. Barnett barrels are made on Douglas blanks. This one was produced in Feb. 2006 and has a 1:10" twist. These are excellent barrels and were widely used by military rifle teams.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Excellent. I knew it wasn't military, but it sounds like it should be pretty accurate. I can't wait to get it into battery as soon as it warms up around here! Thank you for your information sir.
 
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