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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks.

Given that it's a delightful 15 degrees outside, did some indoor dry-fire practice this weekend with my SA SuperMatch. I do it for both practice and comedic value. It definitely makes the in-laws think I have rocks in my head shooting at a spot on the basement wall. It's a wonder they ever let me near their daughter, let alone store my hardware there... ;)

Anyway, using a TMA delrin chamber plug/dry-fire device, I was settling in, slowly taking up the slack and waiting for the second stage to kick in when all of a sudden [SNAP]. The hammer fell.

I'm fairly experienced at taking up the slack and having the trigger set for that last pound of pull [a NM-spec'ed 2-stage SA Commercial trigger group], and am fairly proficient at determining when a shot will go.

It's just that I'm finding this trigger pull too inconsistent. Sometimes it sets; sometimes it don't. When I pull the op rod back 1/2 inch or so to re- it, it goes straight to BANG, but when I rack it all the way back, it gives me a two-stage pull more often than not.

Any suggestions? And if I am to ship this off to a smith, can I just send the trigger group?

Thanks in advance.

Spike
 

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Need to check the let-off of the hammer from the secondary to the primary sear as you pull the trigger. Do this with the trigger unit outside of the rifle.

With the trigger held back, slowly push hammer into cocked position and then release the trigger and watch how the sear hands-off the hammer. If the hammer slips when it is released, then it needs adjustment.

Also with hammer cocked, slowly pull the trigger and watch how the sear releases it. (Do not let the hammer hit the front of the trigger housing as you do this!)

Contact gunsmith about what he needs, though usually just the trigger unit is all he will need. A great book that explains all this is Jerry Kuhnhausen's, 'The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles A Shop Manual Volumes I & II'. Explains everything you need to know about M1 Garand and M14 rifles. It is available from www.fulton-armory.com.
 

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I'd first make sure the group is assembled correctly (the Hammer spring housing in particular). Then I'd look at the hammer and trigger sear surfaces and also make sure the trigger pin hole hasn't broken out. Check the dia of the trigger pin. Take a look at the inside surface of the housing for odd wear marks or perhaps (if it's a repro housing), the parting crease is messing things up.

Ty
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi folks.

Sorry for not getting back to y'all sooner. Played with the trigger group with the steps mentioned above. There's definitely something amiss, but outside my knowledge base by a long shot, as I was not able to discern any true problems that Tommo and 30cal mentioned.

Will be taking the advice and sending my trigger group to an expert for some professional lookin' and possible fixin.'

Thanks again for all your help.

Spike
 

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It could be that the trigger group had enough use that it needs adjusted.
Not a big deal and easy to fix.
If it's a SA Inc. trigger group, you may need a hammer or trigger also.




 

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Spike,
My M1A's trigger was about the same.
When you took up the slack with a slow squeeze, some times it would go bang, sometimes not.
When not, all you had to get it to go off was just touch it, like a set trigger, not good.
I sent the group to Fulton Armory, and they called to tell me that the trigger housing, trigger and hammer were cast and the geometry was off. They put in GI parts and did a NM trigger job.
Been great ever since.
Now if they can fix the loose screw behind the buttplate :roll:

MP5
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
MP5 said:
Now if they can fix the loose screw behind the buttplate :roll:
Ahhh... that fine Hoosier sense of humor! Where ya from, sir? Wife's from Elkhart County...

Warbird, I was kind'a waitin' for you to chime in. ;) I'll be kickin' you a PM to discuss shipment in a little bit. The trigger group's in Indiana, and the check isn't in the bank yet...

Spike
 

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Spike,

I cannot take credit for that jem.

I was shooting with a man named Bob DelCotto at Atterbury last year, I heard him say that to himself when I was scoring him. He's quite the marksman and a good guy.

I live in Wabash county, a little south east of Elkhart.

MP5
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi folks.

Here's the sitch:

As stated previously, my second stage on my SuperMatch is a hair trigger, and at times, almost nonexistent. Please see the attached photo.

In this shot, I'm holding the trigger back until the sear hooks at the rear of the hammer are butting up against the sear (the second stage). I noticed that in this position, the left sear hook (circled) isn't touching the sear at all, but the right one is.

I'm no M-14 doc, but I think there's something amiss. I'm also in communication with Warbird as to sending this to him to eyeball, as I can see a barely noticeable difference in length of each hook, with the right one being (literally) a hair longer.

Spike
 

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I can clearly see what is wrong.
Even though it's ideal for both hooks to make contact, the hammer and trigger rides on pins and will give some degree of offset.
I believe the problem here is that the hammer hooks may have been stoned to far which will also cause a slam fire if you're not careful.

A .020 hand off to the secondary sear is minumum and less could cause problems.

The hammer hook problem can sometimes be fixed without replacing parts but, a closer look will determine that.




 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
warbird said:
I believe the problem here is that the hammer hooks may have been stoned to far which will also cause a slam fire if you're not careful.
8O 8O 8O Well, that's a kick in the head... [Insert Springfield Inc. Quality Control Rant Here]

Thanks, Tim, for your e-diagnosis. Am putting the package together to ship to you this evening. Thanks for all your help.

Spike
 
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