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I looked around my garage last night and found a washer that had the perfect inner diameter for the crown but had a large outer diameter.

I also calculated the thickness of washer I'd need and I came out to 0.075" thickeness. The washer I found was 0.080" thick. I found a bolt that fit the washer tightly and stacked it with lock washers and a bolt and chucked it up in my mini-mill. As it turns out, the bolt head was the exact outer diameter that I needed to fit inside the gas lock so I turned the washer outer diameter until it was the same as the bolt head.

I then stoned the washer until the gas lock timed right at 5:30 and I did a final install. The washer is completely invisible. All you see is muzzle crown. The washer is stainless steel.









Tony.
 

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That my gyrene! Improvise, Adapt and Overcome! Great solution to an inherent problem. Have a great time at the shoot this weekend buddy! It's going to perform flawlessly I'm sure.
 

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There is someone in another Thread that used a Copper washer to fill the gap , check the Thread below this one " SOCOM Muzzle Brake Shims " Stainless may be a better material .
 

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Nice work! Stainless will definitely be a better material.
My only thought is what washer is needed might vary from rifle to rifle so is there a source of readily available thickness pieces maybe?
m14brian
 

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Maybe some kind of crush washer , you could adj. for Gas Lock timing , would work also. Although finding one , that would work , may be an issue .

My testing is going a different way .
 

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I think that factory FHGL is drastically inferior to anything on the market. The adapter and a newer technologically advanced brake is the play. I tested it both ways and my groups were about .75” better with less fliers.
 

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Oh, I thought you were talking about the top of my head again Tony! GI5
 
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I’ll be testing it today. I’ve got tactical rifle match orientation today as well as some loads to test with 125 TNT’s and 155 Hybrids. The match is tomorrow.

Tony.
 

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Awesome, this is what I was talking about then I started the thread about muzzle brake shims. Tony, how did you measure the gap? Also for those of us that dont have a minilathe, if we are able to provide you measurements is this a piece you could make? Lastly, the washer metal is almost definitely a different steal than the barrel, do you think heat may distort or cause the washer to add pressure points to the end of the barrel? I could see that affecting accuracy.
 

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I think that factory FHGL is drastically inferior to anything on the market. The adapter and a newer technologically advanced brake is the play. I tested it both ways and my groups were about .75” better with less fliers.
John, I agree that the ideal situation is to change out the front sight gas lock, but it causes two additional issues for me: 1. extra cost 2. since I live in NJ I cannot have a threaded muzzle. Even if I change to the SEI gaslock and add a muzzle device I then have pin and weld the muzzle device to the SEI unit. If shimming the SAI muzzlebrake/gaslock works to improve accuracy without degrading and becoming dangerous then it is a viable option for those of us in states with laws similar to NJ.
 

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Nice work! Stainless will definitely be a better material.
My only thought is what washer is needed might vary from rifle to rifle so is there a source of readily available thickness pieces maybe?
m14brian
I went to the McMaster Carr web sight and ordered a Stainless Steel peel away ring shim. It is 0.032" thick and 3/8" dia. The outside dia is a perfect fit for inside the muzzle device and the inside dia is slightly larger than the inside dia of the bore at the muzzle.

I ordered three of these because my gap at the end of the barrel was 0.070". Your use the sharp edge of a utility knife and peel away layers of the shim you don't need. I peeled back until these shims clocked to 5:30, just like Tony shows in his videos.

Your McMaster-Carr part # is: 90902A221

I am not affiliated with McMaster-Carr in any way. They just seem to have the hard to find parts I need most often.

John
 

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Old thread revival, but my exact question pertains to it so bear with me.

Does anyone have any follow up to how this performed and held up. This seems like a pretty logical move to help accurize the system a bit more, but the threads all seem to die without a follow up on how its held up or performed.

I live in NJ so the delta p isn't exactly an option for me without having it pinned or welded, so for the adaptor, new break and than pinning I'd be close to $500 when all said and done. The SEI compliant still has this gap, so there's no reason aside from sight interchangability, and I have no real qualms with the SAI setup except the fact that it's known to have this gap. For the cost of washer it seems like a no brainer, but is it too good to be true?

Also, would this take the place of shimming the GC for front band tightness? I noticed in the original post Tony mentions he made sure it clocked at 530 for proper tension, or is that just rule of thumb for the threads machined onto these parts. I need to shim the front band anyway, so while it's apart I'd like to clean up the loose ends so to speak.

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Just my 2cents, but I think the muzzle crown to be most important whether there is a gap or not. The gap actually might help to equalize pressures around the base of the bullet for early stabilization.
 

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Just my 2cents, but I think the muzzle crown to be most important whether there is a gap or not. The gap actually might help to equalize pressures around the base of the bullet for early stabilization.
Which than leads me to believe I should leave the gap alone? Bear with me as I'm learning as I go. This socom is my tinker project, so whilst apart I'm not opposed to making things "better". I know nothing about the physics of ballistic dynamics so I'm trying to learn the "what and why" as I go.

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Which than leads me to believe I should leave the gap alone? Bear with me as I'm learning as I go. This socom is my tinker project, so whilst apart I'm not opposed to making things "better". I know nothing about the physics of ballistic dynamics so I'm trying to learn the "what and why" as I go.

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May just be a cure for a problem that doesn't exist.
 

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So heres pics from disassembly. Curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to make sure I could properly get it apart without needing the special tools anyway. I have no idea what the muzzle crown is supposed to look like but here it is, the gas lock registers tight to the muzzle at exactly 9 o clock when tightened all the way down. These are the things that I'm mostly curious about. Inside the gas block you can see carbon build up line on the threads, but it's small enough I didn't have anything accurate enough to measure it.

I also made a shim out of a monster can and slapped it in behind the front band which clocked perfectly at 530 with slight pressure to 6 o clock. Front band is nice and tight. I do plan on ordering shims, but I was playing around and to my surprise it actually worked. I have to re check my zero after my front sight modification so we'll see if these made a measurable difference at my 100yd zero.


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I think the Muzzles of SOCOMs & probably most SAI M1A's look like they are just cut off , some Muzzle Crowns look good & some not so good . I have a Facing & 11 Deg. Reamers with Pilots . I shot groups with the Factory Crown on my SOCOM & after shooting a few groups with my Hand Loads , disassembled the Muzzle device & Faced there Muzzle off & applied a slight 11 deg. Crown to it , then shot more groups with the same batch of Hand Loads & showed no difference in Grouping . May not be scientific , but to me it seems , at least in my SOCOM Barrel , it really wasn't worth the time or expense to redo the Factory SAI Barrel Muzzle Crown .

Now saying that , we have seen here some ugly Muzzle Crowns , so each Rifle may need attention to inspect its Muzzle , to determine if any need to be redone .

I went another way of solving this issue with the SOCOM Muzzle device gap , I opened it up , tapered the opening , so as not to have a Gap with a ledge , mine is now 45 deg. taperer into the Muzzle device up to the first set of Holes in there device . It works by not having a ledge that the Powder Gases are disrupted & possible interference with Bullet flight out of the Muzzle device by making a larger tapered chamber to allow a smooth Bullet flight path into the Muzzle device with out disruption . I got good consistent groups , so it worked , issue is I was working on the Plastic stock at the same time making changes , that by doing so I weakened the stock & my groups suffer because of it . I installed a reinforced USGI Fiberglass Stock now , so my next range trip will see how consistent it is with a good stock or should I say a more stable platform . I have further plans for the Noodle , but at a later date , I'm too busy with another project , so I'm just going to shoot the SOCOM as it is now .



7CE6DD20-CA80-4B99-9B23-3BB3D8CE1CD0.jpeg
 

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Just my 2cents, but I think the muzzle crown to be most important whether there is a gap or not. The gap actually might help to equalize pressures around the base of the bullet for early stabilization.
Art it is crucial, and proven to be a problem
 
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