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My Socom 16

10378 Views 54 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  GeneCo
Recently got a Socom 16 and wanted to do a Scout configuration ala Col Cooper( I've wanted to for a LONG time) and make it as reliable( and accurate) as possible.

We have hogs and gators and bear( oh my!), so this will fit that bill.

I put a long eye relief 4X32 NCstar scope on it, got some CMI SS mags( Florida humidity) and a Blackhawk cheek pad. Mag carriers are kydex, from SKD. The sling is from T.I.S. http://www.tacticalintervention.com/




Now, afa reliability, I did a little trigger work- I replaced the stock hammer and extractor with forged ones. I polished up the front hooks of the hammer and the matching surface of the secondary sear.






What that does is give me a nice, smooth trigger pull. I didnt mess with the back hooks and primary sear, as I want a solid hook up there( catches the hammer when, if you hold the trigger back after a shot). I put a Chrome alloy spring in, so the perceived pull is lighter, but mainly it's a smoother and cleaner break.


I also polished up the front face( where the bolt hits it in recoil) and the side( that rubs against the housing and safety) and it's mating surface.

I greased it all up and it's nice and smooth.


I also polished up the runner where the op rod rides and the face of the mag catch/release, so the mag goes in /out good.
=================================================

Then, inspired by Lazerus, I decide to add a pistol grip to it. I cut the back off and matched a Choate pistol grip from a Winchester Mod 1200 to it






So this is the result





I shimmed the GC, but there's still 1/8" gap when the gas plug hits the piston(when screwing it in), so now I need another piston, or find someone with a lathe to take it down.

Also, now am looking for lighter loads for CBQ work.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's a good looking rifle. I like the custom stock.
Thanks , I wanted something as light and handy as I could get, without breaking the bank. I saw what Lazerus had done to his rifles and talked with him awhile and decided to try it.


This is what it came off of




I just put the wood stock back on the Winchester( since the Remmy is my primary SG).




I'm pleased with the results, it's handy, light and responsive( and puts the middle of my finger tip pad on the trigger) and I can spend my money on forged parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
there you go. never seen ss magazines. you did the trigger yourself? nice work! get some DAG battle paks and have fun
Sorry, DAG? What and where? I'm looking for a low recoil, low flash, light load, for fast follow up shots.
 

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if u want a cheap piece of glass get the big center point scope at walmart.. I've had 3 and they are all fantastic. the adjustments work and they hold zero (even on my 8mm mauser)

not too clear at 16x , but its fine for target shooting at 1-200 yards.
 

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Recently got a Socom 16 and wanted to do a Scout configuration ala Col Cooper( I've wanted to for a LONG time) and make it as reliable( and accurate) as possible.

We have hogs and gators and bear( oh my!), so this will fit that bill.

I put a long eye relief 4X32 NCstar scope on it, got some CMI SS mags( Florida humidity) and a Blackhawk cheek pad. Mag carriers are kydex, from SKD. The sling is from T.I.S. http://www.tacticalintervention.com/




Now, afa reliability, I did a little trigger work- I replaced the stock hammer and extractor with forged ones. I polished up the front hooks of the hammer and the matching surface of the secondary sear.






What that does is give me a nice, smooth trigger pull. I didnt mess with the back hooks and primary sear, as I want a solid hook up there( catches the hammer when, if you hold the trigger back after a shot). I put a Chrome alloy spring in, so the perceived pull is lighter, but mainly it's a smoother and cleaner break.


I also polished up the front face( where the bolt hits it in recoil) and the side( that rubs against the housing and safety) and it's mating surface.

I greased it all up and it's nice and smooth.


I also polished up the runner where the op rod rides and the face of the mag catch/release, so the mag goes in /out good.
=================================================

Then, inspired by Lazerus, I decide to add a pistol grip to it. I cut the back off and matched a Choate pistol grip from a Winchester Mod 1200 to it






So this is the result





I shimmed the GC, but there's still 1/8" gap when the gas plug hits the piston(when screwing it in), so now I need another piston, or find someone with a lathe to take it down.

Also, now am looking for lighter loads for CBQ work.
I don't think there should be a gap that large.....do a search on it or somebody should chime in with info and fix......all the pistons are the same size...might have to do with your shim job....
 

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......I shimmed the GC, but there's still 1/8" gap when the gas plug hits the piston(when screwing it in), so now I need another piston, or find someone with a lathe to take it down.....
Odd as it sounds, you need more shim until getting that gas plug to touch the piston and have a tad less than 1 full turn left before torqing out. That would be optimal BUT you must watch out for closing off the gas port... Only shim out until you cannot get a an allen or drill bit to pass thru the exhaust port to the rifle bore.

Somewhere on the site i read not to close off the gas port less than 60 percent. Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't think there should be a gap that large.....do a search on it or somebody should chime in with info and fix......all the pistons are the same size...might have to do with your shim job....
I have read Art's thread on this and he says .010, but still leaves questions that he's not answered. One is, is that with a round in the chamber or no? Another, Is that with the cylinder shimmed or not?

One I have is, even now with my gap, when I cycle the action and the bolt cams down into battery, the op rod still travels forward good 1/4" and when I pull the op rod back, to take the bolt out of battery, it travels back 1/4" before it cams the bolt out of battery. My question is, how does this play factor into this?

When I think about firing a round, the initial blast takes the bolt out of battery, so that it's actually pulling the op rod, until the gas gets into the cylinder and pushes the piston, which at best, gives it a sling( supposedly at the same pressure). Now, the op spring stops the whole action and then begins the forward motion, so that the op rod is pulling the bolt, stripping a new round, shoving it into the chamber and then going into battery. In my mind, when the op rod cams that bolt into battery, it has already made contact with the piston and should bottom out, just short of pulling on the bolt, it 'slings' the bolt into battery and stops just short.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Odd as it sounds, you need more shim until getting that gas plug to touch the piston and have a tad less than 1 full turn left before torqing out. That would be optimal BUT you must watch out for closing off the gas port... Only shim out until you cannot get a an allen or drill bit to pass thru the exhaust port to the rifle bore.

Somewhere on the site i read not to close off the gas port less than 60 percent. Hope that helps!
So you're saying to shim out the gas cylinder until I get a tad less than a full turn( of the gas plug) before torqing? Art says to shim out the cylinder until the gas lock tightens up at 5:00-5:30 and then to lathe piston down. Hmmm.
 

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So you're saying to shim out the gas cylinder until I get a tad less than a full turn( of the gas plug) before torqing? Art says to shim out the cylinder until the gas lock tightens up at 5:00-5:30 and then to lathe piston down. Hmmm.
I've never seen a recommendation to lathe a piston down to fit. Not saying you shouldn't but i have heard if you go too far you will hit soft metal. And yes... you do want a 5-5:30 start on the gas plug tightening. You will get a chance to do that on every thread. Also, Art is the very one that suggested what I was talking about earlier... search "dwell time". If anyone would know there stuff around here, it'd be Art and Gus. I've learned a lot of tweaks from them both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've never seen a recommendation to lathe a piston down to fit. Not saying you shouldn't but i have heard if you go too far you will hit soft metal. And yes... you do want a 5-5:30 start on the gas plug tightening. You will get a chance to do that on every thread. Also, Art is the very one that suggested what I was talking about earlier... search "dwell time". If anyone would know there stuff around here, it'd be Art and Gus. I've learned a lot of tweaks from them both.
Yeah, I've read them , too, that's why I say what I do.......Btw, not 5-5:30 on the plug, but on the gas cylinder lock( for shimming the gas cylinder). The plug is something else.


http://m14forum.com/art-luppino/50859-how-find-your-dwell-time.html


In general, if the gap is more than .010", this is where I set my rifles, you have more than is necessary and are working towards a short Dwell, the bigger the gap the shorter the Dwell. This distance can be safely modified by cutting off material on the tang of the piston using a lathe. There is Approx 1/10 th. of an inch of solid material at the end of the tang.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't think there should be a gap that large.....do a search on it or somebody should chime in with info and fix......all the pistons are the same size...might have to do with your shim job....
I don't understand, seems like if I shim the cylinder( putting it farther away from the op rod), it will make the gap in the plug smaller( lengthening the dwell).
 

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My understanding is you want the longest dwell possible without sacrificing the gas flow and a snug gas lock. Supposedly, that makes it shoot more like a bolt gun since the bolt will unlatch later in the cycle if there's a longer dwell. I think i got that right.

Also. you dont want it so far that the op rod hits the roller hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well, I put a AFG on her and drilled out the FH to try and tame muzzle flip.






Now, I wanted the AFG so far off the stock to make sure I don't grab the op rod, so that was by design and on purpose.

Btw, it( AFG) improves the control greatly, the FH works ok( not as much I'd hoped). I have some 147gr S&B coming in tomorrow, so we'll see how that works.
 

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Well, I put a AFG on her and drilled out the FH to try and tame muzzle flip.






Now, I wanted the AFG so far off the stock to make sure I don't grab the op rod, so that was by design and on purpose.

Btw, it( AFG) improves the control greatly, the FH works ok( not as much I'd hoped). I have some 147gr S&B coming in tomorrow, so we'll see how that works.
when you say "muzzle flip" I assume you mean muzzle rise....you should be drilling out the top ports and I would do it with incremental sized drills..and don't do all the holes at one time....I would suggest in pairs. I posted pictures of it here...search "hopco" or "socom" and it will pop up.
 
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