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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Broke a chineseium roll pin punch. Put a drop of oil down the hole and waited overnight.

Next day broke a different brand punch.

Yesterday ordered a USA made set of punches with the little ball on the tips. Waiting on delivery.

Any suggestions appreciated. Have already watched youtube vids.
 

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Are you driving it from inside to out?
 

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Helps to dress the roll pins prior to installation. Crush roll pin closed a bit with Tongue and Groove pliers. Then use a belt sander to knock the edge off the forward portion of the roll pin, making it almost pointed. Then apply a small amount of grease to the pin. Goes in piece of cake as long as the holes are aligned. Check hole alignment using another solid punch feeling for any edges. Roll pins used to break me out in a sweat with frustration, but after listening to folks much more experienced and wiser than myself, they are now a piece of cake. Roll pin starter punches are also a must if installing them consistently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Helps to dress the roll pins prior to installation. Crush roll pin closed a bit with Tongue and Groove pliers. Then use a belt sander to knock the edge off the forward portion of the roll pin, making it almost pointed. Then apply a small amount of grease to the pin. Goes in piece of cake as long as the holes are aligned. Check hole alignment using another solid punch feeling for any edges. Roll pins used to break me out in a sweat with frustration, but after listening to folks much more experienced and wiser than myself, they are now a piece of cake. Roll pin starter punches are also a must if installing them consistently.
This is a SAI factory installed pin.
 

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Likely pin holes are out of alignment and an edge is sheared. Let it soak. Make sure the receiver is secured very well otherwise force is transferred to movement and not to the pin. It needs to be vised down solid. Try both directions, from top and bottom to see if you can obtain movement of the pin. May be easier to come out one way or the other. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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May require shearing the pin off. Not for the weak of heart with a cast receiver.
 

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Gee! I thought it was me! After removing the one in my M1A Loaded, I had a bent roll pin. The holes were not aligned. Then I found the SAI aluminum dovetail scope base required a lot of hand fitting as in filing it to fit. I had no problem inserting a new roll pin. This exercise and castle nut removal are in my "Could have been done better" category! My thinking is that the designers felt there was no need to remove the stripper clip guide nor the castle nut so let's not was a lot of time on designing it!
 

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Also get roll pin punches from MSC. Mayhew or Proto. Anything else is just garbage. Shorter ones are better for stubborn pins.
Excellent advice, in my experience, most problems with roll pins begins with trying to use a standard (flat face) punch. Roll pin punches have a rounded face with a shoulder, essential for roll pin removal and especially installation. In this case, Harbor Freight is NOT your friend.
 

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As Deek stated, the alignment is a major issue. If the guide won't move in dovetail without beating on it, it will be a bear to align. If it moves with relatively minor force, the pin can do the final aligning without bending / breaking.

Like his, my stripper clip needed some minor fitting / massaging also to allow it to move more easily in the dovetail groove, while using less force. That and grinding a small bevel on the end of a new roll pin (those pins can be had a hardware store, but need to be cut to proper length). Once done, removing / installing the guide is a 2 minute job.

Install guide in grove with the roll pin started in it from top
Roughly align guide in the groove
Use a punch from underneath to align the holes in guide / receiver
Tap in roll pin with small hammer

Found this out while removing guide for the Brookfield styled scope base dovetail anchor point installation. First time removing guide, I was so worried I would break something, becuase it was so tight, I made a wooden support block for the receiver to support it while beating on the guide to remove it. That guide does not have to be that tight in the dovetail.
 
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