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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First this is my First Rifle and obviously first M14. GI1
It is a James River Armory M14 built with G.I. parts and a LRB forged receiver. 18" Barrel
Took off the wood stock and put it into a Sage ERB stock.
Added a
Hooded front sight and Goodiron comp from Smith Enterprise.
Extended bolt Release and "tactical" magazine release from fulton armory.
National match spring guide and TiN coated gas cylinder piston from Sadlak.
Harris Bi-pod with Larue QD mount and Aimpoint H-1 with Larue QD mount from Larue Tactical.
A Surefire E2D Defender in a VTAC light mount. (will eventually be replaced with a Larue.
A VTAC 2-point padded Sling.
And a Magpul AFG2 (kind of hard to see)

The Tac Gear is
a VTAC Cobra Belt in a VTAC (TYR) BROKOS Belt.
2 X2R TACOs ,Thigh Rig, and Suspenders from High Speed Gear.

Im not to Savy in accuracy terms so as far a accuracy it was "hit what i aimed it at" with german surplus 7.62
I have not had time due to work to take her out after installing the Sage and upgrades and adding the Aimpoint








 

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Beautiful!!!!.............just gorgeous. Great build and Congrats on a fine looking Sage EBR M14ALCS MOD 0.DI5
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
MM - Boston's Gun Bible Sold me. that book is almost falling apart.
Been saving and saving. had the money and found just what i was looking for on GunBroker.

Shame - i always heard people say that the Sage will add lots of weight and i was like "ah it wont be that bad" then i put the sage on and i was like ..."Jesus it is heavy." but its not too bad. but yeah its heavy.
have not shot it yet sense i turned it into a tank.
 

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Hey bud, I'm in Texas as well and you really need to send me your rig, at least your stock, and let me refinish it for you.

I'm in McKinney, just north of Dallas.


Really really need to put some coyote brown/tan on that stock to break it up.

Your rifle is awesome but it sticks out in our foliage. At least change the stocks color.




Mine is currently in pieces and waiting in line to be sand blasted, have 6 customers rifles to go before I can drop my own in.

My MK14 mod 0 is getting an oldschool woodland camo scheme. All my gear is woodland so I wanted it match. A little dark for north Texas but at least it will not be black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What kind of refinish do you do?

I wouldn't mind getting it in coyote to match CB and multicam gear.
I'm from central Texas and woodland would probably work better here but I found that multicam has all the right mixes of color for the hill country.
But if we don't start getting some rain we might be forced to use A-TACs
 

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GI3 ......... CLAP2

Thanks for posting some M14 porn! That's a nice rifle! Also, good choice of a flashlight. I've got one and it's indestructible. Not to mention, it can mess someone up if needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes the defender is a great light. Was going to mount my 6P but one night trying to find racoons in some trees the 6P just didnt cut it. And the defender has a on and off click button at the bottom and has a high and low output while again the 6P button is just a temp on and to get to stay on you have to twist the end cap and only one output.
All the Defender needs is the ability to be mounted as a bayonet.
 

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Great looking rifle, def agree with rogue nothing stands out in the woods/dessert like black. On that e2d defender you can't beat it. I can stand at one end of the hanger bay on my ship and light up the other with it.
 

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What kind of refinish do you do?

I wouldn't mind getting it in coyote to match CB and multicam gear.
I'm from central Texas and woodland would probably work better here but I found that multicam has all the right mixes of color for the hill country.
But if we don't start getting some rain we might be forced to use A-TACs



As far as refinishing goes, I practically do everything. I run my own shop and I'm licensed, but 90% of all my work is refinishing, parkering, blueing, wood, small batches of anodizing.


One of my favorites and specialties is the oldschool Army/Marine woodland camo patterns.

One thing about using either Duracoat or Cerakote is that both companies have woodland camo color kits.... But after using them both, the colors hues are off slightly to really far off, like duracoats woodland green is actually an aqua/marine green (it is really bad). I have mixed my own paints and found the correct colors perfectly. I am currently working on a Multicam from scratch, and I have nearly finished, last color is the dark brown.

Finding correct colors to match other companies made products have been really expensive for me..... Example: Magpul makes products in a Flat Dark Earth, Duracoat makes a "Magpul Flat Dark Earth" color.... But it doesn't even come close to matching in the sunlight, or even in a dark room for that matter. I have mixed and mixed and mixed tons of colors together and finally came out with a FDE that matches perfectly. It cost me about $16
0 worth of paint, but I've made it up by customers wanting that particular color all over their AR's.


Woodland for you in your area would work great, it is very easy for me as I already have hand drawn male and female stencils precut and ready to go..... Woodland is a dying camo in my eyes though, other camo patterns like multicam has taken over because it's new, but woodland is my most favorite and my MK14 is going to be completed when it's done. But, the bad thing about laying down multicam is that it's a very hard pattern, tons of patterns and multi colors fading into each other...... but I can do it if you'd like, I've a few rifles and other gear and it matches perfectly.

My process is to completely clean and degrease the part, sandblast usin aluminum oxide, soak in acetone over night, hang on wires, clean again, put in oven to heat parts, spray colors using HVLP guns or depending on how many colors I'm using I have 6 Badger Crescendo airbrushes, apply stencils or remove, paint more and finish up with clear coats if needed and flattening agents....... Then bake to do the initial curing......... I totally recommend that you absolutely do not put any oils, lube or grease on any painted part for at least a month. Even though the part has been baked, the paints/ceramics have oils in them naturally and they still need to be leached out for the paints/ceramics to fully cure. That process takes about a month more or less...... So if any additional oil, lube or grease is applied, it can take way longer for the parts to cure, basically the paint is weak and you could scratch the paint which should be bulletproof when fully cured.


I offer a lifetime warranty on everything I paint, not including common wear like slide rails and surface-to-surface contact areas, that is a given..... But if the paint/ceramic just flakes or peels right off, I will redo the whole part at no charge.

I offer the warranty because nobody has ever used it, never in 8 years!


If you'd like, you can IM me and we can talk privately about pricing and shipping info.
 
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